
Photo: Eugene Zelenko (talk · contribs), CC BY-SA 4.0 · source
Tree · Fabaceae
Silver wattle
Acacia dealbata
In other languages: Mimosa (Nederlands) · Mimosa d’hiver (Français)
Silver wattle, sold as mimosa, comes from south-eastern Australia and Tasmania. It is a fast-growing evergreen tree with finely divided, silver-grey to blue-green leaves that look a little like ferns. In February–March it is covered in fluffy, golden-yellow balls with a sweet scent. On the French Riviera it is part of the landscape, and the flowering branches are sold as cut flowers. In Belgium it is only moderately hardy, to about −8 °C: outdoors it succeeds only in a very sheltered spot; elsewhere you grow it in a large pot.
Light
Full sun
warm and bright
Moisture
Dry to normal
no wet feet
Legal basis
Sand or loam
acid to neutral
Hardiness
down to -8 °C
protect in harsh winters
Size
8 m
tall, 6 m wide
Flowering
February–March
| Pruning months | April |
|---|---|
| Height | 8 m |
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Good for bees, butterflies and birds | Yes, for bees |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Not known to be poisonous |
| Flowering | February–March |
Identify
Silver wattle: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Fast-growing tree with a light, open crown. Outdoors in a warm spot up to about 8 m; in a pot usually 2–3 m.
- Leaves
- Twice pinnate, with a great many tiny leaflets; silver-grey to blue-green, soft and fern-like. Evergreen.
- Flowers
- Fluffy golden-yellow balls about half a centimetre across, in long sprays, in February–March.
- Scent
- Sweet and honey-like, especially on sunny days.
- Roots
- Fairly shallow: it is easily blown over or knocked askew, so a sturdy stake is needed. It also produces suckers.
Flowering: February–March · Plants: May–June · Pruning: April
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Flowers in the middle of winter, in February–March, when little else is in bloom.
- A lovely sweet scent, indoors in a vase as well.
- Evergreen, fine silver-grey foliage that looks good all year.
- Early pollen for bees on mild days at the end of winter.
- Grows fast: in a pot you have a sizeable flowering shrub within a few years.
- A touch of the south of France on a sheltered patio or in a cold greenhouse.
Silver wattle: where does it grow best?
- Full sun and warmth; outdoors only against a south-facing wall, in a sheltered town garden or near the sea.
- Light, free-draining sandy or loamy soil, acid to neutral. On chalky soil the leaves turn yellow.
- Rather dry than wet: it dislikes wet roots in winter.
- Sheltered from cold easterly winds. Outdoors, allow a spread of about 6 m.
- In a pot: a large container with drainage holes and lime-free compost.
- Light
- Sun
- Soil type
- Sand or loam
- Acidity
- Acid or neutral
- Moisture
- Dry or normal
- Size
- 8 m tall, 6 m wide
- Hardiness
- Half hardy (to -8 °C): protect it in harsh winters
Goes well with
- Camellia: Also likes lime-free soil, flowers at the same time and is happy to overwinter cool.
- Olive: Silvery leaves and the same Mediterranean feel on the patio.
- Rosemary: Evergreen and scented, for the same sunny, dry spot.
- Crocus: In open ground under the tree: purple crocuses flower at the same time as the yellow mimosa.
Maintenance
Silver wattle: when and how to plant it?
Plant in May–June.
- Plant or repot in May–June, once there is no more risk of night frost: that gives it time to root in before winter.
- Outdoors: dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and loosen heavy soil with some coarse sand.
- First drive a sturdy stake into the hole, on the windward side, then set the plant next to it.
- Plant the root ball at the same depth as in the pot and firm the soil.
- Water generously, preferably with rainwater, and afterwards only in dry spells.
- In a pot: a layer of gravel at the bottom and lime-free compost, for example multi-purpose compost mixed with ericaceous compost.
Care
- Water
- In a pot, regularly in summer, with rainwater; let the top few centimetres dry out between waterings. Sparingly in winter, but never let the root ball dry out completely.
- Feeding
- Little needed: it fixes its own nitrogen. From April to August, give pot-grown plants an occasional weak dose of feed for acid-loving plants.
- Repotting
- Every two or three years, after flowering in April–May, into a slightly larger pot with fresh lime-free compost.
- Support
- A sturdy stake, even in a pot, as the crown catches a lot of wind.
- Cut flowers
- Cut branches when the first balls open and put them straight into lukewarm water.
Tip: Water with rainwater and use lime-free compost: tap water is often limy and turns the leaves yellow. Prune only straight after flowering, or you will remove next year’s buds.
Silver wattle: when to prune it?
Pruning months: April.
When: Straight after flowering, in April. Pruning later costs flowers: next year’s buds are already formed in summer.
How:
- Cut flowered shoots back to just above a few leaves or a side shoot.
- Remove frost-damaged, dead and crossing branches.
- In a pot, keep it compact by shortening long shoots by a third to a half.
- Remove suckers around the base, as low down as possible.
Caution: Do not prune in autumn or winter: you would remove the flower buds.
Propagation
- Seed
- The seed has a hard coat: pour hot water over it and leave it to soak overnight. Sow indoors in spring at about 20 °C.
- Suckers
- In spring, detach a sucker with a piece of root and pot it up in lime-free compost.
Silver wattle: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy to −8 °C: protect in harsh winters.
- Moderately hardy, to about −8 °C; young plants and the flower buds are more sensitive.
- Outdoors: choose the most sheltered spot in the garden and put a thick mulch over the roots. In severe frost you can wrap the crown temporarily in a double layer of fleece.
- In a pot: overwinter in a light, frost-free place, such as a cold greenhouse, an unheated conservatory or a cool, light hallway. A heated living room is too warm and too dark.
- It can take a light night frost: only bring it in when real frost arrives.
Diseases and pests
- Yellow leaves: Yellow leaves with green veins: the soil or the water is too limy. Use rainwater and lime-free compost.
- Frost damage: Brown leaves and dead twigs after a harsh winter. Wait until May, then cut back to healthy wood: it often reshoots.
- Leaf drop indoors: It sheds a lot of leaves if overwintered too warm and too dark. Move it somewhere cooler and lighter.
- Scale insects and mealybugs: Brown scales or white fluffy tufts on the twigs, often during overwintering. Wipe them off with a cloth or soft brush and water with a little soft soap.
- No flowers: Too little sun or pruned in autumn. Move it into more sun and prune only after flowering from now on.
Through the year
- January: Overwintering: light and frost-free, little water. The flower buds swell.
- February: Flowering starts. Cut branches for the vase.
- March: Full flower and scent. Bees on mild days.
- April: Prune after flowering. Repot if needed.
- May: Plant or move outside after the last night frost. Feed.
- June: Planting. Water in dry spells.
- July: Growth. Water pot plants and feed occasionally.
- August: Next year’s flower buds are forming. No more pruning.
- October: Reduce watering. Get the fleece ready.
- November: Bring pot plants in when frost threatens, somewhere light and cool.
- December: Overwintering. Little water, but never bone dry.
Use
Good for wildlife
- Bees
- Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.
You and this species
Did you know?
- It is called mimosa, but the true genus Mimosa is a different plant, such as the sensitive plant, whose leaflets fold up when touched.
- Each fluffy ball is not a single flower but a head of dozens of tiny flowers with long stamens.
- Around the Mediterranean, including Portugal and southern France, it has naturalised so widely that it is regarded as invasive; in Belgium the frost keeps it in check.