Green hellebore

Green hellebore: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Compact clump 30–40 cm high and wide, which loses its leaves in winter.

Foliage

Palmate, deeply cut into 7–11 narrow segments, 15–25 cm across; fresh green, deciduous.

Flower

Nodding, cup-shaped flowers 3–5 cm across, yellow-green to green, in small clusters.

Flowering

From February to April.

Roots

A thick, dark rootstock with fleshy roots; it dislikes being moved.

Flowering: February–April · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: February

Why grow it?

• Flowers from February to April, in the depths of winter and early spring.
• A native species that suits a natural garden under shrubs and trees.
• The flowers provide early nectar and pollen for the first bees and bumblebees.
• Does very well in part shade and on chalky soil, where many plants struggle.
• Low maintenance and builds into a strong clump over the years.

Green hellebore: where does it grow best?

• Part shade to light shade, for example under deciduous shrubs or trees; winter and early spring sun is welcome.
• Humus-rich, chalky soil: loam or clay, neutral to chalky; sand is fine if there is enough humus and moisture.
• Average moisture: the soil should not dry out in summer, but avoid wet feet in winter.
• Sheltered from cold, dry wind and from summer sun.
• Space plants 40–50 cm apart and let the clump grow undisturbed.

Light

Partial shade and shade

Soil type

Loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Normal

Size

0.4 m tall, 0.4 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Snowdrops: Flower at the same time and make a natural winter scene.
• Lungwort: Blue and pink flowers in the same part shade.
• Ferns: Fresh green underplanting when the hellebore loses its leaves.
• Periwinkle: Evergreen ground cover that flowers blue in spring.
• Wood anemone: White spring flowers that suit the woodland mood.

Green hellebore: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and September–October.

1. Plant in March–April or September–October, in moist but not waterlogged soil.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in compost and, if needed, a little lime.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot, with the crown at soil level: no deeper.
4. Leave 40–50 cm between plants.
5. Water thoroughly straight away and keep the soil moist during the first year.
6. Spread a layer of leaf mould around the base, leaving the crown free.

Care

Water

Regularly in dry weather during the first year. After that mainly in long dry summers, so the soil does not dry out.

Feeding

In spring, after flowering, a thin layer of compost or leaf mould; otherwise little.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould in autumn keeps the soil moist and feeds soil life.

Tidying

In February, cut off the dead leaves so the flowers show well.

Leave undisturbed

Do not move or divide it unless you must: the plant sulks for a long time afterwards.

Tip: Plant the green hellebore under shrubs and trees in a cool spot with chalky, humus-rich soil and leave it alone: after a few years it will self-sow.

Green hellebore: when to prune it?

Pruning months: February.

When: It is not really pruned: in February you simply cut away the dead leaves before the flowers appear.

How:

• Cut dead or damaged leaves and stalks off at the base, using sharp scissors or secateurs.
• Remove faded flower stems after seed set if you do not want self-sown seedlings.
• Wear gloves: the sap can irritate the skin.

Caution: All parts of the plant are poisonous. Wear gloves and wash your hands after working.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

Sow fresh seed in June–July, directly in a pot or in a sheltered spot. It germinates the following spring; plants flower after 2–3 years. The plant also self-sows.

Division

Carefully after flowering, in April, detach a piece with roots from the clump. Replant at once at the same depth and water well. Do this only if really necessary.

Green hellebore: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Fully hardy to about −30 °C: no protection is needed in Belgian winters.
• The flower buds sit close to the ground; late frosts rarely harm them.
• It is less suited to pots; plant it in the open ground, where the roots stay cool.

Diseases and pests

• Leaf spot: Black spots on the leaves, especially after a wet winter. Cut off affected leaves and do not put them on the compost heap.
• Aphids: On young flower stems in spring. Rinse off with water or wipe them away by hand; ladybirds help.
• Slugs: They eat young shoots and flowers. Pick off slugs or lay a barrier of crushed shells.
• Poor flowering: Usually too much shade, soil that is too acid or too dry, or the plant has just been moved. Give it time and improve the soil with compost.

Through the year

• February: Cut off dead leaves. The first flowers appear.
• March: Flowering. Plant or move.
• April: Flowering ends. Divide if necessary.
• May: Seed set. Water in dry weather.
• June: Seed ripens. Collect and sow fresh seed.
• July: Sowing. Keep the soil moist.
• September: Plant. Apply compost.
• October: Plant. Spread leaf mould.
• November: The leaves die back. Do nothing.
• December: Dormant.

Edible and useful

Not edible. All parts of hellebores and Christmas roses are poisonous, to pets too; the sap can irritate the skin. Wear gloves when cutting off old leaves or dividing the plant, and do not eat any of it. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• The ‘petals’ are really sepals; the true petals are small tubular nectaries in the centre of the flower.
• The seeds carry a fatty appendage that ants love: they carry the seeds away and so help to spread them.
• Unlike the Christmas rose (black hellebore) or the stinking hellebore, this species loses its leaves in winter.