Chinese juniper

Chinese juniper: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Depends on the cultivar: a narrow, columnar shrub or conical small tree about 2–3 m high and 1–2 m wide.

Foliage

Evergreen; fine scales pressed against the twig, sometimes mixed with sharp needles, grey-green to blue-green.

Fruit

Small, bluish, fleshy cones (‘berries’) on female plants.

Bark

Reddish brown, peeling in long strips on older plants.

Roots

Branching and deep; tolerates drought but not wet feet.

Plants: April–May and September–October · Pruning: June and August

Why grow it?

• Green and neat all year round, even in frost and drought.
• Columnar cultivars add height and structure in a narrow space.
• Very hardy and drought-tolerant: a good choice for sunny, poor soil.
• Suits a modern, Japanese or gravel garden and also looks good in a large container.
• Little work: hardly any pruning or feeding.

Chinese juniper: where does it grow best?

• Full sun; in shade it becomes thin and bare.
• Well-drained soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky. Dry to moderately moist.
• Tolerates wind and drought, but not waterlogged soil or standing water in winter.
• Allow 1–2 m of space per plant; columnar cultivars as a hedge at 60–80 cm.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

3 m tall, 2 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Lavender: Likes the same sun and dry soil; scented flowers against a neat green backdrop.
• Heather: A low, flowering patch of colour at its foot.
• Ornamental grasses: The fine foliage of blue fescue goes well with the neat shape.
• Sage: Purple flowers in summer and the same need for sun and free-draining soil.

Chinese juniper: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May and September–October.

1. Plant in April–May or in September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball; in heavy clay mix in sand or grit for better drainage.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot; the base of the stem must not end up deeper.
4. Water thoroughly straight away and keep the soil moist, but never wet, in the first year.
5. Put a layer of bark or grit around the base to suppress weeds, keeping the trunk itself clear.

Care

Water

In the first year, once a week in dry weather. After that hardly ever, except in long dry summers or in a container.

Feeding

Usually not necessary. On poor soil a thin layer of compost in spring is enough.

Mulching

A layer of bark or grit keeps weeds down and protects the roots.

Tying in

For columnar cultivars, loosely tie the branches together with soft twine in autumn so snow cannot push them apart.

In a container

Use a large pot with drainage holes and compost mixed with sand or grit; water as soon as the top layer is dry.

Tip: Put it in full sun in well-drained soil and only prune into young, green growth. Loosely tie columnar cultivars together in autumn.

Chinese juniper: when to prune it?

Pruning months: June and August.

When: In June and again in August or September; one light trim a year is enough.

How:

• Only trim the young, green tips of the new shoots to keep the shape.
• Remove dead or damaged branches completely, back to living wood.
• For a hedge: clip lightly and often, so there is always green foliage left.
• Wear gloves: the needles are prickly and can irritate sensitive skin.

Caution: Never cut into bare, brown wood: it does not regrow from there and leaves a gap.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Semi-ripe cuttings

In September–October: take 10–15 cm cuttings with a heel, in sandy compost in a cold frame. Rooting takes several months.

Seed

The seed lies dormant for a long time and germinates slowly. Cultivars do not come true from seed; for a specific cultivar, choose cuttings.

Chinese juniper: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Very hardy, to about −30 °C: no protection is needed in Belgian winters.
• Loosely tie columnar cultivars in autumn and shake heavy wet snow off the branches.
• In a pot: place it in a sheltered spot and wrap the pot in hessian or bubble wrap so the roots do not freeze.

Diseases and pests

• Root rot: The plant declines and the foliage turns brown in a spot that is too wet. Plant in well-drained soil and do not overwater.
• Twig dieback: Brown, dying shoot tips. Cut affected parts back to healthy wood and dispose of them.
• Spider mites: In hot, dry summers the foliage turns grey-yellow and you see fine webs. Spray the plant with a jet of water.
• Splayed branches: Heavy snow pushes the branches of columnar cultivars apart. Tie them loosely together in autumn.

Through the year

• April: Plant. Remove dead branches.
• May: Plant. Water young plants in dry weather.
• June: Trim the young green tips.
• July: Watch for spider mites in dry weather.
• August: Trim lightly. Remove affected branches.
• September: Plant. Take cuttings.
• October: Plant. Loosely tie columnar cultivars.
• December: Shake heavy snow off the branches.

Did you know?

• ‘Kaizuka’, with its twisting, flame-shaped branches, is called ‘Hollywood juniper’ in some countries.
• Chinese juniper is a popular species for bonsai.
• In the wild the species can reach about 20 m, whereas garden cultivars often only reach a few metres.