Himalayan fairy grass

Himalayan fairy grass: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Dense, arching clump about 1.2 m tall and 80 cm wide. It grows in a tuft and does not spread by runners.

Foliage

Narrow, arching and fresh green; straw-coloured in winter.

Flower

Nodding, silky plumes in golden yellow to coppery brown, from August to October.

Roots

Compact, fibrous rootstock that dislikes wet winters.

Use

Singly, in small groups, in large pots or as a structural plant in a warm border.

Flowering: August–October · Plants: April–May · Pruning: March–April

Why grow it?

• Late flowering: golden, nodding plumes from August to October.
• A graceful, fine clump that moves in the wind.
• More compact than many other miscanthus; at 1.2 m it also suits a smaller garden.
• The plumes glow in low sun, especially in autumn.
• Fits a warm, exotic or Mediterranean planting, also in a large pot.

Himalayan fairy grass: where does it grow best?

• Full sun for the best flowering: in shade the plumes stay away.
• Free-draining, humus-rich soil: sand or loam, neutral to chalky. No wet, heavy clay.
• Normally moist: water regularly in summer, but no wet feet in winter.
• A warm, sheltered spot, for example against a south- or west-facing wall, helps in hard frost.
• Allow 80–100 cm of space per plant.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Normal

Size

1.2 m tall, 0.8 m wide

Hardiness

Half hardy (to -10 °C): protect it in harsh winters

Goes well with

• Coneflower: Pink flowers in late summer next to the golden plumes.
• Michaelmas daisy: Purple and blue flowers in October against the gold of the plumes.
• Ice plant: Flowers in the same period and likes the same sunny spot.
• Red hot poker: Orange flowers in late summer, a warm contrast with the grass.

Himalayan fairy grass: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Plant in April–May, when the soil has warmed up: it can then root well before winter.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the rootball. Mix heavy soil with sand and compost for better drainage.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot, with the crown at soil level. Planting deeper causes crown rot.
4. Plant 80–100 cm apart.
5. Water in well and keep the soil lightly moist during the first year.
6. Spread a layer of compost or bark around the clump, keeping the crown clear.

Care

Water

Keep the soil lightly moist in the first year. After that, water generously in prolonged drought; in a pot, weekly.

Feeding

In April, a spadeful of compost or an organic fertiliser. Not too much: otherwise the clump flops open.

Mulching

A layer of compost in spring; in November a layer of dry leaves or straw around the base as winter protection.

Support

Usually not needed. A sheltered spot stops the plumes from bending over in strong wind.

Repotting and dividing

Repot a container plant every 2–3 years in spring. In the ground, dividing is rarely needed.

Tip: Plant it in April–May in a warm, free-draining spot and leave the foliage standing over winter: it protects the crown. Cut back only in April.

Himalayan fairy grass: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March–April.

When: In March–April, once the hard frosts are over and before the new shoots appear.

How:

• First tie the old foliage loosely with string.
• Cut the clump back to 10–15 cm above the ground.
• Wear gloves: the leaf edges are sharp.
• Compost the clippings.

Caution: Do not cut back in autumn: the old foliage protects the crown from damp and frost.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In May, when the new shoots appear and the weather is warm: lift the clump and divide it with a sharp spade into pieces with roots and shoots. Replant straight away and water. Do this every 4–5 years at most.

Seed

In spring indoors at 18–20 °C on seed compost; the seeds are fine and barely covered. Seedlings may differ from one another and flower only after several years.

Himalayan fairy grass: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −10 °C: protect in harsh winters.

• Moderately hardy: down to about −10 °C in a sheltered, free-draining spot. Wet winters are more dangerous than dry frost.
• Leave the foliage standing and tie it loosely in frost. Pile a thick layer of dry leaves or straw around the base.
• In a pot: stand it against a sheltered wall on pot feet and wrap the pot, or move it into a cold, bright, frost-free place in hard frost.

Diseases and pests

• Winter wet and frost damage: Rotting crown or brown, limp foliage in spring. Plant in free-draining soil, tie up the foliage and mulch the base. Cut back only in April.
• Few or no plumes: In shade, after a cool summer or through too hard pruning. Give full sun and a warm spot; flowering is late, sometimes only in October.
• Rust: Orange to brown pustules on the leaves in damp weather. Cut off affected leaves and keep the clump airy.
• Floppy clump: Falls open with too much fertiliser or in shade. Feed less and give full sun.

Through the year

• March: Leave the winter protection until the hard frosts are over.
• April: Cut the clump back to 10–15 cm. Plant. Give compost.
• May: Plant or divide. Water after planting.
• June: Water regularly, especially in a pot.
• July: Water in dry weather.
• August: The plumes appear.
• September: Full flower.
• October: Flowering. The plumes look good; do not cut back.
• November: Tie up the foliage and mulch the base. Shelter pots.
• December: Dormant. Leave the foliage standing.

Did you know?

• The name Miscanthus comes from Greek: mischos (stalk) and anthos (flower), after the stalked spikelets.
• In the wild it grows on grassy mountain slopes in the Himalaya.
• The plumes are silky-haired and glow golden yellow in low sun.