Enchanter’s-nightshade (Circaea lutetiana)

Photo: Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0 · source

Herbaceous plant · Willowherb family (Onagraceae)

Enchanter’s-nightshade

Circaea lutetiana

In other languages: Groot heksenkruid (Nederlands) · Circée de Paris (Français)

Grows wild in Belgium.

Enchanter’s-nightshade is a perennial of damp deciduous woodland, hedgerows and shady corners, gardens included. In Belgium it is common, especially on rich, moist loam and clay. You can recognise it by its opposite, oval, slightly toothed leaves and by its airy spikes of small white to pink flowers, which appear from June to August. Unusually, everything comes in twos: two sepals, two deeply notched petals and two stamens. The fruits are small burs with hooked hairs that cling to fur and clothes. In a wild shade garden it makes a delicate ground cover, but in an ordinary border its white rhizomes can turn it into a stubborn weed.

  • Light

    Partial shade or shade

    tolerates little sun

  • Moisture

    Normal

    no wet feet

  • Hardiness

    Fully hardy

    down to -30 °C

  • Size

    0.4 m

    tall, 0.4 m wide

  • Flowering

    June–August

Key facts
Pruning monthsAugust
Height0.4 m
Native to BelgiumYes
FloweringJune–August

Identify

How to recognise it

Habit
Perennial of 20–60 cm with upright, slightly hairy stems that are a little swollen at the joints; it forms colonies through creeping rhizomes.
Leaf
Opposite, oval, 4–10 cm, with a rounded base, a pointed tip and a shallowly toothed edge; dull green with a distinct stalk.
Flower
Small flowers of about 5 mm in airy spikes that keep lengthening: two sepals, two white to pink, deeply notched petals and two stamens; from June to August.
Fruit/Seed
A pear-shaped bur of 3–4 mm, densely covered with white hooked hairs, which catches on fur and clothing.
Roots
Thin, white, creeping rhizomes that spread far underground.
Look-alikes
Alpine enchanter’s-nightshade is smaller, with glossy, deeply toothed leaves, and grows mainly in the mountains; between the two there is a hybrid, upland enchanter’s-nightshade. Before flowering it can be confused with dog’s mercury, which also has opposite leaves but is poisonous, with unbranched stems and small greenish flowers.

Flowering: June–August · Pruning: August

In your garden

Why grow it?

  • It flowers in midsummer in the shade, when little else is in flower in the woods: small hoverflies and other flies visit the flowers.
  • A graceful, low ground cover for deep shade under trees and shrubs.
  • The burs travel in the fur of roe deer, foxes and dogs: a fine example of seed dispersal by animals.
  • A fascinating little plant to look at: its flowers are built in twos, which is rare in our flora.
  • It grows even where little light reaches, such as along a shady wall or under a hedge.

Enchanter’s-nightshade: where does it grow best?

  • In the wild in damp deciduous woodland, floodplain forest, hedgerows, along woodland paths and on shady stream banks.
  • Also in gardens and parks: in shady borders, under hedges and along walls.
  • Partial to deep shade.
  • Moist, humus-rich, fertile soil: loam, clay or humus-rich sand.

Goes well with

  • Male-fern: A large, sturdy fern that gives structure to the shady corner.
  • Herb-Robert: A small pink flower that blooms for a long time in the same shade.
  • Hedge woundwort: Purple spikes in summer, on the same moist, fertile soil.
  • Sweet woodruff: Small white starry flowers in May, before the enchanter’s-nightshade starts to bloom.

Maintenance

Enchanter’s-nightshade: when and how to plant it?

  1. It usually turns up by itself in a shady garden, with burs or with plants from another garden.
  2. If you want it as ground cover, buy a few plants from a nursery for native plants, or ask a neighbour for a piece of rhizome. Never dig up plants in the wild.
  3. Plant in March–April or in September–October in moist, humus-rich soil, 30 cm apart.
  4. Choose a spot where it is allowed to spread, such as under shrubs or in a wild shady corner, not among delicate perennials.
  5. An edging of stones or a path helps to keep the rhizomes in check.
  6. Water for the first few weeks; after that it looks after itself in the shade.

Care

Water
Only for the first few weeks and in long dry spells; in moist shade it is not needed.
Feeding
Not needed; fallen leaves are enough.
Spreading
It spreads with rhizomes and burs. Pull out runners in spring when the soil is moist, and follow the white rhizomes as far as you can.
Burs
Cut off the flower stems in August, before the burs ripen, if you want to limit its spread.
Out of the border
To get rid of it, loosen the soil in spring with a garden fork and remove all the rhizomes; repeat this for a few years.

Tip: Only plant enchanter’s-nightshade where it is allowed to spread, such as under shrubs or in a wild shady corner, and not among delicate perennials: there you will struggle to get the rhizomes out again.

Pruning and mowing

Pruning months: August.

When: In August, if you want to limit its spread: cut off the flower stems before the burs ripen. Otherwise no pruning is needed.

How:

  • Cut the stems just above the ground.
  • In a wild corner simply leave the stems; they break down by themselves over winter.
  • Do not put cut stems with ripe burs on an open compost heap; let them dry out thoroughly first.

Caution: After working, check your clothes and your dog’s coat: that way you do not carry the burs to other places yourself.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Rhizomes
The main way: thin, white rhizomes grow on underground and form new plants. A piece of rhizome in March–April or September is enough to start a new colony.
Burs
The burs hook onto fur, feathers and clothing and are spread that way. You can also gather them in autumn and sow them straight away in the shade.

Enchanter’s-nightshade: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

  • The parts above ground die back in autumn; the plant overwinters as rhizomes in the soil.
  • Fully hardy, to about −30 °C.
  • The dry stems with burs stay standing for a while, and passing animals carry the burs away.

Diseases and pests

  • Spreading in the border: The white rhizomes weave between other plants. Remove them as completely as possible in spring and repeat for a few years.
  • Burs in fur: Dogs and cats carry them off. Brush them out after a walk round the garden.
  • Rust: Small brown or orange pustules on the leaves. Harmless; cut off badly affected stems.
  • Mix-up with dog’s mercury: Both grow in shade, but dog’s mercury is poisonous. Look at the flowers: only enchanter’s-nightshade has small white flowers with two petals.
  • Drought: In a dry spot the leaves droop. It recovers after rain; a damper shady spot suits it better.

Through the year

  • March: New shoots appear. Pull out runners where there are too many.
  • April: Plant, or move pieces of rhizome.
  • May: The stems grow.
  • June: Flowering begins: airy spikes of small white flowers.
  • July: Full flower. Small hoverflies on the flowers.
  • August: Last flowers. Cut off the flower stems if you do not want burs.
  • September: Ripe burs. Plant or move plants.
  • October: The stems die back. Brush burs out of the dog’s coat.
  • November: Rest. Fallen leaves can stay where they are.

You and this species

Did you know?

  • The genus Circaea is named after Circe, the enchantress of Greek mythology who bewitched the companions of Odysseus.
  • Lutetiana refers to Lutetia, the Latin name for Paris.
  • Despite its English name, it is not related to the nightshades but belongs to the willowherb family, like rosebay willowherb and fuchsia.

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