Alexandrian laurel

Alexandrian laurel: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Clump of upright to arching green stems, 60 cm–1 m tall and as wide. Spreads slowly by short rhizomes.

Leaves

What you see are flattened, leaf-like stems 4–10 cm long, lance-shaped, pointed and glossy green. The true leaves are small scales.

Flower

Small greenish-yellow flowers in short clusters at the stem tips in late spring; inconspicuous.

Fruit

Round, orange-red berries 6–8 mm across, mainly after a warm summer.

Roots

Fleshy roots and short rhizomes from which new stems emerge every spring.

Plants: April–May and September–October · Pruning: March–April

Why grow it?

• Evergreen and glossy: a fresh, graceful plant all year round.
• One of the few shrubs that does well in deep shade, where other evergreens become thin and sparse.
• Beautiful cut foliage: the arching stems last a long time in a vase and in Christmas arrangements.
• After a warm summer, orange-red berries decorate the plant in autumn and winter.
• Slow-growing and tidy: little pruning and hardly any diseases.

Alexandrian laurel: where does it grow best?

• Partial to deep shade; in full sun the stems turn yellowish and scorch.
• Not fussy about soil: sand, loam or clay, acid, neutral or chalky, as long as it is rich in humus.
• Moist, well-drained soil; once established it tolerates short dry spells.
• Sheltered from cold, drying winds and bright winter sun.
• Allow about 1 m per plant; for a low hedge or a group, plant 60–80 cm apart.

Light

Partial shade and shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

1 m tall, 1 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -15 °C)

Goes well with

• Barrenwort: An evergreen ground cover for the same shade.
• Ferns: Fine, fresh foliage next to the glossy stems.
• Lenten rose: Flowers in shade in late winter and early spring.
• Siberian bugloss: Small blue flowers and large leaves in spring.
• Hosta: Large leaves for contrast in summer.

Alexandrian laurel: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May and September–October.

1. Plant in April–May or September–October, when the soil is not frozen or too wet.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in a few spadefuls of compost or leaf mould.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot and firm the soil well.
4. Leave 80 cm–1 m between single plants, or 60–80 cm for a low hedge.
5. Water in generously straight away, even if it is raining.
6. Spread a layer of leaf mould or wood chips around the base.

Care

Water

Water regularly in dry spells during the first year. After that, only in long dry periods, especially under thirsty trees.

Feeding

A layer of compost or a little organic fertiliser in April; nothing more is needed.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould, or simply leaving fallen leaves in place, keeps the soil rich in humus, as in a wood.

Cut foliage

Cut stems for the vase at the base: the plant stays tidy and new stems come up.

Patience

It grows slowly, especially in the first years; give it time to form a full clump.

Tip: Give it the darkest corner of the garden, where other evergreens grow thin: that is where its glossy green looks its best.

Alexandrian laurel: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March–April.

When: In March–April, before the new stems emerge. Otherwise no pruning is needed.

How:

• Cut old, brown or damaged stems right down to the ground.
• Keep the young, glossy stems: they will carry the plant for the next few years.
• You can cut foliage all year round: always take whole stems from the base.

Caution: Shortening stems halfway looks untidy; it is better to remove them completely at the base.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In April, lift a clump or slice off a piece with roots and a few stems from the edge and replant it at once. Water well.

Seed

In autumn, clean the pulp off fresh berries and sow them in a pot outdoors. Germination is slow and erratic: be patient.

Alexandrian laurel: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −15 °C: protect young plants.

• Hardy to about −15 °C: no problem in most Belgian winters.
• In hard frost, cold wind or bright winter sun, stems may turn brown; cut them out in spring and the plant will reshoot from the base.
• A layer of leaf mould over the roots protects young plants.
• In a pot: place it in a sheltered, shady corner and wrap the pot in hessian during hard frost.

Diseases and pests

• Yellow or scorched stems: Too much sun or drying wind. Move it to a shadier spot or give it shelter.
• Brown stems after winter: Frost damage or simply old stems. Cut them out at the base in spring.
• Root rot: On heavy, waterlogged soil the stems wilt and turn yellow. Make sure the soil drains well.
• Slow growth: Normal for this plant. Give compost every year and water in dry summers; after a few years it fills out.

Through the year

• March: Cut old and brown stems down to the ground.
• April: Plant or divide. Give compost. Remove the last old stems.
• May: Plant. The new stems emerge.
• June: Water in dry spells, especially young plants.
• August: Water in dry spells.
• September: Plant. After a warm summer the berries colour up.
• October: Plant. Sow berries in a pot outdoors.
• December: Cut stems for Christmas arrangements.

Did you know?

• Danae racemosa is the only species in its genus.
• Its ‘leaves’ are flattened stems, as in its relative butcher’s broom; in Alexandrian laurel, however, the flowers grow at the stem tips rather than in the middle of the ‘leaf’.
• The genus is named after Danaë, the mother of Perseus in Greek mythology.