Leopard’s bane

Leopard’s bane: how do you recognise it?

Habit

A low clump about 45 cm high and wide; the flower stems stand upright above the leaves.

Leaves

Heart-shaped, fresh green, with a scalloped edge and long stalks. After flowering they turn yellow and the plant dies down.

Flowers

Single, bright yellow daisies 4–5 cm across with a yellow centre, one per stem, in April and May.

Roots

A short, fleshy rootstock that slowly spreads into a wider clump.

Summer dormancy

During the summer the leaves disappear: the plant rests underground until the following spring.

Flowering: April–May · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: May–June

Why grow it?

• One of the earliest yellow daisies: it flowers in April and May, when few perennials are in bloom.
• An early source of pollen and nectar for bees.
• Long stems make it a lovely cut flower for a spring bouquet.
• Thrives in partial shade, under deciduous trees and shrubs.
• Fully hardy and low-maintenance: dividing it every three or four years is enough.

Leopard’s bane: where does it grow best?

• Sun or partial shade; a spot that is sunny in spring and shady in summer, such as under deciduous trees, is ideal.
• Moisture-retentive, humus-rich loam or clay; acid, neutral or chalky does not matter.
• Moist to wet soil: it copes better with wet soil than with drought.
• Plant 30–40 cm apart, preferably in groups of three or more.
• Put it among later-flowering plants that will fill the gap when it dies down in summer.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal or wet

Size

0.45 m tall, 0.45 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -35 °C)

Goes well with

• Tulip: Yellow with red, orange or white: a classic spring picture.
• Forget-me-not: A sea of blue beneath the yellow daisies.
• Lungwort: Flowers at the same time in the same partial shade, in blue and pink.
• Hosta: Emerges late and fills the space with large leaves when the leopard’s bane dies down.
• Michaelmas daisy: Fills the gap in late summer and flowers on into autumn.

Leopard’s bane: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and September–October.

1. Plant in March–April or September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Loosen the soil and work in a few spadefuls of compost or leaf mould.
3. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball and set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot.
4. Leave 30–40 cm between plants; it looks best in groups of three to five.
5. Firm the soil and water well straight away.
6. Spread a thin layer of leaf mould around the plants to keep the soil moist.

Care

Watering

In the first spring, water weekly in dry spells. After that only in a dry spring; in summer it is dormant and needs little.

Feeding

A layer of compost in March is enough. Chemical fertiliser is not needed.

Mulching

Leaf mould or fine bark chippings keep the soil cool and moist.

Deadheading

Cut faded stems back to the leaves to keep the plant tidy.

Dying foliage

Remove yellowed leaves in summer and mark the spot so you do not dig into it by mistake.

Dividing

Every 3–4 years, when the clump flowers less in the centre.

Tip: Give it a spot that is sunny in spring and shady in summer, for example under a deciduous tree: it will flower freely there and its leaves will stay attractive for longer.

Leopard’s bane: when to prune it?

Pruning months: May–June.

When: Hardly any pruning is needed. Cut off faded stems in May–June and clear yellowed leaves when the plant dies down.

How:

• After flowering, cut the flower stems at the base, just above the leaves.
• Leave the leaves while they are green: they feed the rootstock for next year.
• Remove yellow, dried leaves in summer so that slugs and fungi have nowhere to hide.

Caution: Do not cut the leaves off while they are still green, even if they look a little untidy.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In September–October or straight after flowering: lift the clump, split it with a spade or knife into pieces each with a few buds and roots, and replant at once.

Seed

Sow in spring in a tray of seed compost and barely cover the seed. Seedlings usually flower after one or two years. Cultivars do not always come true from seed.

Leopard’s bane: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −35 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −35 °C: no protection is needed in Belgium.
• In winter nothing shows above ground; mark the spot so you do not dig into it.
• In a pot: keep it sheltered in winter and make sure the compost does not stay soggy.
• From late February the first leaves appear; keep an eye out for slugs.

Diseases and pests

• Powdery mildew: White powder on the leaves, especially after flowering and in dry weather. Water, leave space between plants and cut off affected leaves.
• Slugs: They eat young leaves and buds in spring. Pick them off in the evening or set a beer trap.
• Plant has vanished: In summer it suddenly disappears: that is its normal summer rest, not a disease. Fill the gap with later-flowering plants.
• Fewer flowers: Old, dense clumps flower less in the centre. Divide them in autumn and replant the young pieces from the edge.

Through the year

• February: First leaves appear. Watch out for slugs.
• March: Planting. Spread compost or leaf mould around the clumps.
• April: In flower, together with the tulips. Cut stems for the vase.
• May: Last flowers. Cut off faded stems.
• June: Leaves turn yellow: clear them and mark the spot.
• July: Summer rest. Later-flowering plants take over.
• September: Divide and move plants. Plant new ones.
• October: Planting. Mulch with leaf mould.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• It used to be called Doronicum caucasicum, after the Caucasus where it grows wild. That is why its French name is still doronic du Caucase.
• The name leopard’s bane goes back to an old belief that the plant was poisonous to wild animals.
• Few members of the daisy family, which also includes asters and sunflowers, flower so early in the year.