Paperbush

Paperbush: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Rounded, open shrub 1–1.5 m tall and wide, with supple branches that always fork into three.

Leaf

Lance-shaped, 8–15 cm, blue-green and soft; appears after flowering and drops in autumn after turning yellow.

Flower

Round clusters of 30–50 small, yellow tubular flowers, silvery and hairy outside, from February to April.

Scent

Sweet and spicy, best noticed on mild, sunny days.

Branches

So supple you can tie them in a knot without breaking them; brown with pale bark.

Flowering: February–April · Plants: April–May · Pruning: April

Why grow it?

• Flowers and scents the garden from February, when hardly anything else is in bloom.
• The hairy flower buds already decorate the bare branches all winter.
• An early source of nectar for bumblebees and the first bees on mild days.
• Grows naturally into a handsome shape: pruning is hardly ever needed.
• An unusual shrub for a sheltered spot by the patio or front door, where you can enjoy the scent.

Paperbush: where does it grow best?

• Partial shade is ideal: morning sun and shade in the hottest hours.
• A spot sheltered from cold east and north winds, for example against a wall or among other shrubs.
• Humus-rich, loose soil that never dries out but never waterlogs either; neutral to slightly acid.
• Give it 1.5 m of space: it grows slowly but becomes nicely rounded.

Light

Partial shade

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Acid or neutral

Moisture

Normal

Size

1.5 m tall, 1.5 m wide

Hardiness

Half hardy (to -12 °C): protect it in harsh winters

Goes well with

• Witch hazel: Another scented winter-flowering shrub that likes partial shade.
• Christmas rose: Flowers at the same time at its feet and likes the same sheltered, humus-rich spot.
• Snowdrops: A white carpet beneath the yellow flowers in February.
• Ferns: Green ground cover for summer, when the shrub itself is quieter.
• Winter daphne: A relative with equally fragrant winter flowers.

Paperbush: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Plant in April or May, once hard frosts are over, so the roots have the whole summer to settle.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in a few spadefuls of compost or leaf mould.
3. Set the shrub at the same depth as in its pot and firm the soil lightly.
4. Water thoroughly straight away, then weekly in dry spells during the first year.
5. Spread a mulch of leaf mould or wood chips around the base to keep the soil cool and moist.

Care

Water

Regularly in the first year, then mainly in dry summers: the leaves droop in drought.

Feeding

A layer of compost in spring is enough; too much fertiliser gives weak growth.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould or wood chips every spring keeps the roots cool and protects against frost.

Shelter

Protect young plants in severe winters with fleece over the crown; the flower buds can freeze below −10 °C.

In a pot

Possible in a large pot with ericaceous compost and garden compost; stand it against the house in winter.

Tip: Plant it where you often pass in February, for example by the front door: that way you get the most from the scent and the unusual buds.

Paperbush: when to prune it?

Pruning months: April.

When: Pruning is usually unnecessary. If needed, lightly after flowering, in April.

How:

• Remove only dead, damaged or crossing branches.
• Never prune in autumn or winter: you would cut off the flower buds.
• Shorten overlong branches just above a fork to keep the natural shape.

Caution: It dislikes hard pruning and is slow to regrow.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Semi-ripe cuttings

In July–August: 10–12 cm cuttings in moist cutting compost under plastic. They root slowly and not always.

Layering

In spring, peg a low branch into the soil; after a year it has rooted and can be cut free.

Paperbush: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −12 °C: protect in harsh winters.

• Hardy to about −12 °C; in a severe winter the flower buds may freeze while the shrub itself survives.
• The silvery flower buds sit on the branches all winter and are a feature in themselves.
• Protect young plants in their first winters with fleece and a thick mulch.
• Move a pot against the house and wrap it in hessian or bubble wrap.

Diseases and pests

• Frosted buds: Brown, shrivelled buds after hard frost. A sheltered spot and fleece in severe frost help.
• Drooping leaves: A sign of drought or too much sun. Water and mulch; if needed, move it to partial shade.
• Yellow leaves: Often caused by waterlogging or soil that is too chalky. Provide humus-rich, free-draining soil.
• Aphids: Sometimes on young shoots in spring. Ladybirds usually deal with them; otherwise spray them off with water.

Through the year

• February: First flowers open; enjoy the scent on mild days.
• March: Full flower. Mulch.
• April: End of flowering. Prune lightly if needed. Planting.
• May: Leaves appear. Planting is still possible.
• July: Take semi-ripe cuttings. Water in dry spells.
• August: Water in dry spells. New flower buds form.
• October: Yellow autumn colour. No more pruning.
• December: Have fleece ready for hard frost.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• In Japan the fibrous bark of a close relative has been used for centuries to make strong paper, including for banknotes.
• The branches always fork into three, which is why its Japanese name is mitsumata, ‘three forks’.