Redvein enkianthus

Redvein enkianthus: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Upright, fairly narrow shrub, 2–3 m tall and about 2 m wide, with tiered branches; slow-growing.

Leaves

Elliptic, 3–7 cm, finely toothed, in whorls at the shoot tips; matt green, turning orange, red and yellow in autumn.

Flowers

Hanging clusters of 5–15 bells about 1 cm long, creamy yellow with red veins, in May.

Fruit

Small, upright capsules, not very noticeable.

Roots

Fine and shallow, like those of rhododendron: sensitive to drought and lime.

Flowering: May · Plants: March–April and October–November · Pruning: June

Why grow it?

• Graceful hanging bells in May, finely marked when you look closely.
• One of the finest autumn colours in the garden: orange, scarlet and yellow.
• The tiered branches give structure even in winter.
• Bees and bumblebees readily visit the bells.
• Its slow growth keeps it compact for years: suitable for smaller gardens too.

Redvein enkianthus: where does it grow best?

• Sun or part shade; autumn colour is best in sun, but the soil must not dry out there.
• Acid, humus-rich soil: sand, loam or peat. It will not tolerate lime.
• Normally moist to moist, but well drained.
• Sheltered from strong, drying winds, for example among other shrubs or at a woodland edge.
• Allow 1.5–2 m per plant.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or peat

Acidity

Acid

Moisture

Normal or wet

Size

3 m tall, 2 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -25 °C)

Goes well with

• Rhododendron: The same acid, moist soil; together a rich display in spring.
• Japanese maple: Even more autumn colour and fine-textured foliage.
• Ferns: A fresh underplanting in part shade.
• Pieris: Evergreen, with white flower clusters in spring and often red young leaves.
• Wood anemone: White spring flowers beneath the shrub.

Redvein enkianthus: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and October–November.

1. Plant in March–April or October–November, when the ground is not frozen.
2. Dig a generous hole and mix the soil with leaf mould or ericaceous compost.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot, no deeper: the roots like to stay near the surface.
4. Leave 1.5–2 m between plants.
5. Water in with rainwater and keep the soil moist during the first year.
6. Spread a mulch of leaf mould, bark or pine needles around the base.

Care

Watering

Water generously in dry spells, preferably with rainwater: tap water often contains lime.

Feeding

In April, a little organic fertiliser for acid-loving plants, or simply leaf mould.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould or bark every spring keeps the shallow roots cool and moist.

Weeding

Do not hoe around the base: the shallow roots are easily damaged. Mulch to keep weeds down.

Spent flowers

No need to remove them; the small fruits are inconspicuous and do no harm.

Tip: Plant it where the low autumn sun shines through the leaves: the colour then glows like a lantern. In dry spells, water with rainwater rather than limy tap water.

Redvein enkianthus: when to prune it?

Pruning months: June.

When: Hardly needed. If you do prune, do it straight after flowering, in June.

How:

• Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches.
• Cut back the odd overlong branch to a side branch so the tiered shape is kept.
• Renovate an old, overgrown shrub gradually by taking out one or two old branches low down each year.

Caution: It grows slowly: after hard pruning it takes years to recover. Better to prune too little than too much.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Semi-ripe cuttings

In July–August, take 8–10 cm cuttings and root them in acid, sandy cutting compost under plastic. They root slowly.

Layering

In spring, peg a low branch into the soil and cover it with acid soil; sever it after one or two years and replant it.

Redvein enkianthus: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −25 °C.

• Hardy to about −25 °C: no protection is needed in Belgium.
• Late frost in April can damage young shoots and flower buds; a sheltered spot helps.
• In a pot: choose a large pot of ericaceous compost and stand it sheltered against a wall; the root ball must not stay frozen for long or dry out.

Diseases and pests

• Yellow leaves: Yellow leaves with green veins (chlorosis) point to soil or water that is too limy. Water with rainwater and mulch with leaf mould or pine needles.
• Brown leaf edges: Caused by drought or strong wind. Water generously, mulch and choose a sheltered spot.
• Poor autumn colour: In deep shade it colours less. A spot with a few hours of sun a day helps.
• Late frost: Brown young shoots and flower buds after a frosty night in April. Cut off damaged tips; the shrub will recover.

Through the year

• January: Dormant. The tiered branches give structure.
• March: Plant. Give leaf mould.
• April: Plant. Apply mulch. Watch out for night frost.
• May: Flowering: hanging bells beneath the young leaves.
• June: Light pruning after flowering if needed. Water in dry spells.
• July: Take semi-ripe cuttings. Water with rainwater in dry spells.
• August: Keep the soil moist.
• October: Superb autumn colour. Plant.
• November: Plant. Leave fallen leaves as a mulch.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• The name Enkianthus comes from the Greek enkyos (pregnant) and anthos (flower), after the swollen flowers of a related species.
• Campanulatus means ‘bell-shaped’ and refers to the little bells.
• It belongs to the heather family, like rhododendron, heather and blueberry, which is why it needs acid soil.