Pointed-petal fritillary

Pointed-petal fritillary: how do you recognise it?

Habit

A bulb with a straight, slender stem about 40 cm tall and 10–15 cm wide.

Leaves

Narrow, strap-shaped and blue-green, scattered along the stem; they die back after flowering.

Flowers

One to a few hanging bells about 3–4 cm long, green with a brown-purple inside and curled-back tips, in April and May.

Bulb

A small, white, fleshy bulb without a protective tunic; it dries out quickly.

Dormancy

In summer it goes dormant: the leaves disappear and the bulb rests dry underground.

Flowering: April–May · Plants: September–October

Why grow it?

• Unusual green bells with a brown-purple inside: a striking spring surprise.
• Flowers in April and May, when the border is still quiet.
• Bumblebees and bees collect nectar from the hanging flowers.
• Suits a sunny border or a pot, even on poor, well-drained soil.
• Returns year after year and slowly spreads.

Pointed-petal fritillary: where does it grow best?

• Full sun to partial shade: the sunnier the spot, the stronger the flowering.
• Well-drained sandy, loamy or clay soil, neutral to chalky; mix coarse sand or fine grit into heavy clay.
• Dry to normally moist: slightly moist in spring, preferably dry in summer.
• Plant 10–15 cm apart, in small groups of at least five to ten bulbs.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.4 m tall, 0.1 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -20 °C)

Goes well with

• Grape hyacinth: Small blue clumps that flower at the same time and make the green bells stand out.
• Species tulip: Low wild tulips in red or yellow add colour next to the quiet bells.
• Spurge: Yellow-green bracts at the same time, in the same warm, well-drained spot.
• Coral bells: Dark purple foliage that echoes the brown tones in the flower.

Pointed-petal fritillary: when and how to plant it?

Plant in September–October.

1. Plant in September–October, as soon as possible after buying: the bulbs have no protective tunic and dry out.
2. Dig a hole 10–12 cm deep, roughly three times the height of the bulb.
3. In heavy soil, spread a layer of coarse sand or grit at the bottom so that water cannot collect.
4. Set the bulb on its flat base and keep 10–15 cm between bulbs.
5. Cover with soil, firm lightly and water in dry weather, but not too much.
6. Wear gloves to be safe: all parts are poisonous.

Care

Watering

In spring only in dry weather. After flowering and in summer not at all, as the bulb needs to rest dry.

Feeding

After flowering, a light dose of potassium-rich feed or a little compost; nothing more is needed.

Mulching

A thin layer of fine compost or grit in autumn. Never put a thick layer over the bulb.

Leaves

Leave the leaves until they turn yellow, usually in June: this is how the bulb refills its reserves.

Spent flowers

Cut off the seed pods if you do not want seed, or leave them for seed to form.

Tip: Plant it in small groups among low perennials in a sunny, well-drained border, and make sure the soil stays dry in summer.

Pointed-petal fritillary: when to prune it?

When: This bulb is not pruned. You only cut off spent flowers and, later, the dead leaves.

How:

• Cut off spent flowers if you do not want seed.
• Leave the leaves until they turn yellow, usually in June.
• Remove dead stems and leaf remains only once they come away easily.

Caution: Never cut off green leaves: the bulb needs them to flower next year.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Separating bulbs

In July–August, once the leaves have gone: lift a clump, gently separate the small bulbs and replant them straight away 10 cm deep.

Seed

Sow fresh seed in autumn in a pot of sandy compost and leave it outdoors. It often takes 4–6 years for the seedlings to flower.

Pointed-petal fritillary: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −20 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −20 °C: no protection needed.
• Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than cold: make sure the drainage is good.
• In a pot: put it in a sheltered corner and protect the pot from freezing through, without letting it get waterlogged.

Diseases and pests

• Lily beetle: Bright red beetles and their slimy larvae on leaves and stems from April to June. Pick them off by hand.
• Bulb rot: The bulb turns soft and the leaves yellow early or fail to appear. It is usually too wet; improve the drainage.
• Slugs: They eat young shoots and buds in spring. Collect them in the evening or put down a barrier of coarse sand.
• Bulbs fail to come up: The bulbs were dried out when bought or rotted in wet soil in summer. Buy firm bulbs and plant them at once.

Through the year

• February: The shoots come up.
• March: Watch for slugs. Water in dry weather.
• April: Flowering begins.
• May: In flower. Cut off seed pods if you wish.
• June: The leaves turn yellow: do not cut them too early.
• July: Summer dormancy. Divide clumps if needed.
• August: Divide the bulbs and replant them straight away.
• September: Plant new bulbs.
• October: Plant bulbs. Check the drainage.
• November: A thin layer of compost if you like.

Edible and useful

Not edible. All parts of fritillaries, such as snake’s head fritillary and crown imperial, are poisonous, especially the bulbs: they contain alkaloids that can cause vomiting, stomach ache and diarrhoea, in children as well as in dogs and cats. The bulbs have no protective papery skin: bare and white or yellowish, they can be mistaken for onions or garlic, although the crown imperial bulb has a strong foxy smell. So never store them with the kitchen onions, plant them as soon as you buy them (they dry out quickly), and do not leave loose bulbs lying where dogs or cats could chew them. Wear gloves when planting and when cutting the stems, and wash your hands afterwards. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• The species name acmopetala comes from Greek and refers to the pointed petals.
• The name Fritillaria comes from the Latin fritillus, ‘dice cup’, after the chequered pattern on the flower of the wild snake’s head fritillary.
• Fritillary bulbs have no protective tunic, so they dry out faster than tulips or daffodils.