Eternal flame

Eternal flame: how do you recognise it?

Growth habit

Compact, clump-forming foliage plant about 40 cm tall and wide, with leaves on long stalks rising from the ground.

Leaves

Oval to lance-shaped, 15–25 cm, with a wavy edge; dark green above, purplish red beneath.

Flower

Bright orange bracts with small flowers, in a spike on a long stalk above the foliage, from May to August.

Movement

The leaves lie flat by day and fold upwards in the evening; this is normal.

Roots

Thick, fleshy roots from a short rhizome; they do not like wet feet.

Flowering: May–August · Plants: April–May

Why grow it?

• Bright orange flower spikes that last for weeks and bring colour to a green corner.
• Dark green, wavy foliage with a purplish underside, attractive even without flowers.
• Stays compact: 40 cm tall and wide, also suitable for a shelf or table.
• Flowers from May to August and is then a real eye-catcher in the house.
• The leaves move with the light: in the evening they fold upwards.

Eternal flame: where does it grow best?

• Plenty of light but no direct sun: a bright spot by a north- or east-facing window, or well back from a south-facing one. Sun scorches the leaves.
• Loose, humus-rich, slightly acid compost that holds moisture yet drains well: potting compost with peat and perlite.
• Warm: 18–25 °C and never below 15 °C. No draughts and no cold windowsill in winter.
• High humidity, preferably above 60%: a pebble tray, a humidifier or a bathroom with a window helps.

Light

Bright, out of direct sun

Potting soil

Multi-purpose compost or airy, humus-rich compost

Acidity

Acid or neutral

Watering

Moderately or generously

Size

0.4 m tall, 0.4 m wide

Temperature

Minimum 15 °C

Goes well with

• Prayer plant (Maranta): A relative with moving leaves and the same warmth and humidity.
• Ferns: A fresh green counterpart for a humid corner.
• Nerve plant (Fittonia): A low foliage plant for the same warm, humid spot.
• Peperomia: A compact foliage plant for the same bright spot out of the sun.

Eternal flame: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Repot in April–May, when the roots fill the pot; a young plant every 1–2 years.
2. Choose a pot with drainage holes, one size larger than the last, and put clay pebbles in the bottom for drainage.
3. Use an airy, slightly acid potting compost with plenty of organic matter and perlite.
4. Set the plant at the same depth as before and firm the compost gently without damaging the roots.
5. Water with lukewarm, low-lime water and put it in a bright, warm spot out of the sun.

Care

Water

Keep the compost evenly moist but never wet. Use rainwater, filtered water or boiled water that has cooled: tap water causes brown leaf edges.

Humidity

Provide at least 60% humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier. Misting helps only briefly.

Feeding

From April to September, every 2–4 weeks, give half the dose of a foliage plant feed. Not in winter.

Cleaning

Wipe dust off with a damp cloth; the leaves breathe better and spider mites and aphids stay away.

Spent flowers

Cut off a faded spike together with its stalk, just above the soil.

Tip: Use rainwater or filtered water and provide high humidity. Give the plant plenty of light, but never direct sun, and keep it out of draughts.

Eternal flame: when to prune it?

When: You hardly need to prune; remove old or damaged leaves as needed.

How:

• Cut yellow, brown or damaged leaves off with their stalks, just above the soil.
• Cut faded flower spikes off with their stalks, just above the soil.
• If needed, tidy brown edges with sharp scissors, following the natural leaf shape.
• Never cut off healthy leaves: the plant needs them.

Caution: Use clean scissors and always cut at the base, not halfway up the stalk.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In April–May when repotting: take the plant out of the pot, gently divide the rootball into pieces with roots and at least 3–4 leaves and pot them separately. Keep them warm, humid and sheltered until they grow on.

Eternal flame: how does it get through the winter?

• Not hardy: the minimum temperature is 15 °C. It must never overwinter outdoors.
• Keep it warm (18–20 °C) and bright, away from a cold window or draughts.
• Water less and do not feed: the compost may dry out slightly on top.
• With central heating, provide extra humidity, because dry air turns leaf edges brown.

Diseases and pests

• Brown leaf edges: Dry air or tap water with a lot of lime or fluoride. Raise the humidity and use rainwater or filtered water.
• Curling leaves: A sign of thirst, dry air or a draught. Water, put down a pebble tray and keep the plant out of draughts.
• Spider mites: Fine webbing and speckled leaves in dry, warm air. Rinse or wipe the leaves clean and raise the humidity.
• Yellow leaves: Old leaves turn yellow naturally. Many yellow leaves mean too wet or too little light. Let the compost dry out a little and move it somewhere brighter.
• No new flowers: Indoors, getting it to flower again is hard. Give plenty of light, warmth and humidity and enjoy the attractive foliage.

Through the year

• January: Rest: keep warm, less water, no feeding.
• February: Rest. Keep an eye on humidity.
• March: Slowly give more water again. Do not feed yet.
• April: Repot or divide. Start feeding.
• May: First flowers possible. Feed every 2–4 weeks.
• June: Flowering. Keep water and humidity up.
• July: Flowering. Keep out of the sun.
• August: Last flowers. Cut off faded spikes.
• September: Feed less.
• October: Stop feeding. Move away from cold draughts.
• November: Rest. Little water, keep warm.
• December: Rest: warm, bright and draught-free.

Did you know?

• The species name ‘crocata’ means saffron-coloured and refers to the orange flower spikes.
• Since 2012 many calatheas have been placed in the genus Goeppertia, named after the German botanist Heinrich Göppert.
• The leaves of this plant family move with the light: they fold upwards in the evening and lower again by day.