Photo: UpstateNYer, CC BY-SA 3.0 · source
Bulb or tuber · Liliaceae
Easter lily
Lilium longiflorum
In other languages: Paaslelie (Nederlands) · Lis de Pâques (Français)
The Easter lily (Lilium longiflorum) comes from the southern islands of Japan and is world-famous for its pure white, trumpet-shaped flowers. It is forced in greenhouses to flower around Easter, but in the garden it flowers only in July and August. The flowers are over 10 cm long and give off a heavy, sweet scent. It is less hardy than other lilies and is best grown in a pot that you overwinter frost-free. In a warm, sheltered spot it makes a magnificent cut flower.
Caution: Deadly to cats: all parts, including pollen that they lick from their fur and water from the vase, can cause serious poisoning in cats; go to the vet at once if you suspect it. The plant is also harmful to dogs and children if eaten. Do not put the pot where cats can reach it.
Light
Sun or partial shade
preferably some sun
Moisture
Normal
no wet feet
Legal basis
Sand or loam
neutral to chalky
Hardiness
down to -5 °C
protect in harsh winters
Size
0.9 m
tall, 0.3 m wide
Flowering
July–August
| Height | 0.9 m |
|---|---|
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Yes, take care with children and pets |
| Flowering | July–August |
Identify
Easter lily: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Upright bulbous plant about 90 cm tall and 30 cm wide, with a sturdy, straight stem.
- Leaves
- Narrow to lance-shaped, glossy dark green, scattered along the stem.
- Flower
- Large trumpets, over 10 cm long, in small groups at the top of the stem, from July to August.
- Scent
- Heavy and sweet; most noticeable in the evening.
- Bulb
- Bulb without a protective coat, made up of white scales; it dries out quickly.
Flowering: July–August · Plants: March–May
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Pure white, trumpet-shaped flowers with a heavy, sweet scent.
- Flowers in July–August, when the garden is ready for new highlights.
- Excellent as a cut flower: a few stems in a vase scent the whole room.
- Suits a pot on the terrace or a warm, sheltered spot in the border.
- A classic with centuries-old symbolism of purity and Easter.
Easter lily: where does it grow best?
- Sun to partial shade in a warm, sheltered spot; the base may stand in shade.
- Free-draining, humus-rich soil: sandy or loamy; neutral to chalky is fine.
- Normally moist: the soil must not dry out, but standing water makes the bulb rot.
- Sheltered from wind and frost: a south-facing wall is ideal.
- In a pot: 25–30 cm wide, with holes in the bottom, with 2–3 bulbs per pot.
- Light
- Sun and partial shade
- Soil type
- Sand or loam
- Acidity
- Neutral or chalky
- Moisture
- Normal
- Size
- 0.9 m tall, 0.3 m wide
- Hardiness
- Half hardy (to -5 °C): protect it in harsh winters
Goes well with
- Hydrangea: White and pink flowers fill the summer border with the scented trumpets.
- Lavender: Likes the same warm spot; purple contrasts with the white.
- Ornamental grasses: Soft plumes fill the space around the lily.
- Pelargonium: A pot of pelargoniums at the base keeps the bulb cool.
Maintenance
Easter lily: when and how to plant it?
Plant in March–May.
- Plant in March–May; bought bulbs can first start in a pot indoors.
- Dig a hole or choose a pot 15 cm deep (three times the height of the bulb); mix heavy soil with compost and sand.
- Set the bulb upright, on a thin layer of sand against rot, 25–30 cm apart.
- Cover with soil and water well, then moderately.
- After the Ice Saints (mid-May), put the pot outside in a warm, sheltered spot.
Care
- Water
- Keep the soil evenly moist during the growing season, especially from June to August. Much less after flowering and in winter.
- Feeding
- Every two weeks, a little bulb fertiliser or liquid feed during the growing season. Stop after flowering.
- Mulching
- A layer of leaf mould or fine bark keeps the soil cool and moist.
- Support
- A bamboo cane next to the stem prevents the heavy flower clusters from falling over.
- Spent flowers
- Cut them off, but leave the stem and leaves until they turn yellow: they feed the bulb.
Tip: Grow it in a pot and overwinter that frost-free: it is less hardy than other lilies. Put the pot on the terrace in July–August where you can smell the scent, but where cats cannot reach it.
Easter lily: when to prune it?
When: Pruning is not needed. Cut off spent flowers and remove the stems only when they are completely withered, in October.
How:
- Cut off spent flowers just below the flower.
- Leave the stem and leaves until they turn yellow: they feed the bulb.
- Cut the withered stem off just above the ground or compost.
Caution: Never cut a green stem too early: the bulb needs the leaves to recharge for next year. For cut flowers, remove the stamens: the pollen stains.
Propagation
- Division
- In October–November, when repotting: gently detach the small bulblets next to the main bulb and pot them separately; they flower after 2–3 years.
- Scales
- In autumn, snap a few healthy scales off the bulb and place them in moist sand or perlite in a plastic bag at room temperature; new bulblets form after a few weeks.
- Seed
- Sow in spring in pots at room temperature; seedlings flower after a few years.
Easter lily: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy to −5 °C: protect in harsh winters.
- Not reliably hardy: the bulb tolerates hard frost poorly (limit about −5 °C). In Flanders it is best overwintered in a pot.
- After flowering, before the first frost, put the pot somewhere frost-free and cooler (5–10 °C) in a garage, cellar or shed; keep the bulb almost dry.
- In open ground: cover the spot with a thick layer of dry leaves or bark (15–20 cm) and protect from rain; expect losses in hard frost.
Diseases and pests
- Lily beetle: A bright red beetle and slimy larvae (covered in their own droppings) eat the leaves from April to July. Hand-picking is the best remedy.
- Botrytis: Brown spots on leaves and buds in wet weather. Cut off affected leaves, leave space between plants and do not water over the foliage.
- Bulb rot: In waterlogged compost or cold, wet soil the bulbs rot. Use a pot with holes and free-draining soil.
- Aphids: They sit on young shoots and buds and can spread virus. Rinse them off with water or let ladybirds do their work.
Through the year
- March: Plant bulbs in pots. Let them start indoors or in a greenhouse.
- April: Plant. Pot in a bright, cool spot.
- May: Outside after the Ice Saints. Water and feed.
- June: Buds form. Put supports in place. Watch for lily beetles.
- July: Flowering begins. Cut flowers for the vase.
- August: Flowering. Cut off spent flowers.
- September: Leaves turn yellow. Water less.
- October: Move the pot somewhere frost-free. Cut off withered stems.
- November: Overwinter the pot dry and frost-free.
- December: Rest. Check now and then for rot or mould.
Use
Edible and useful
Not edible. Lilies are life-threatening to cats: every part, even the pollen and the water in the vase, causes acute kidney failure in very small amounts, which is often fatal without prompt treatment. A little pollen licked off the fur can be enough. If your cat has been at a lily or has pollen on its coat, call your vet at once, even if it shows no signs yet. Do not bring cut lilies into the house if you have a cat (removing the stamens is not enough) and do not plant them where cats often go. For children and dogs lilies are far less dangerous, but they can still cause stomach upsets. Do not confuse them with daylilies (Hemerocallis), whose buds and flowers are edible (though they too are dangerous to cats): never eat a true lily. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.
You and this species
Did you know?
- It is forced in greenhouses to flower around Easter; in the garden it naturally flowers only in summer.
- The species name longiflorum means ‘long-flowered’, after the long trumpet-shaped flowers.
- In many countries the white lily is a symbol of Easter and purity.