
Photo: Bernard DUPONT from FRANCE, CC BY-SA 2.0 · source
Houseplant · Cactaceae
Blue candle
Myrtillocactus geometrizans
In other languages: Myrtillocactus (Nederlands) · Myrtillocactus (Français)
Myrtillocactus geometrizans comes from Mexico, where it grows on dry hillsides as a candelabra-like, columnar cactus that can reach several metres in height. The trunk and branching arms are blue-green with a fine waxy bloom, and have five or six ribs with short black spines. Indoors it grows fairly quickly to about 1 m tall and stays slender, which makes it a sculptural plant for a sunny window. Older plants bear small cream-white flowers and small purple-red fruits. Sturdy and vigorous, its blue tint is a lovely contrast to green plants.
Light
Full sun
warm and bright
Moisture
Dry
tolerates drought
Legal basis
Potting soil
Hardiness
Houseplant
min. 10 °C
Size
1 m
tall, 0.6 m wide
| Pruning months | April–May |
|---|---|
| Height | 1 m |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Not known to be poisonous |
Identify
Blue candle: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Columnar or candelabra-shaped cactus, about 1 m tall and 60 cm across indoors, with side branches; several metres tall in the wild.
- Stem
- Blue-green with a waxy bloom and five or six ribs; about 6–10 cm thick.
- Spines
- Small spine cushions on the ribs with short black spines; young plants have few and short ones.
- Flower
- Small cream-white to greenish flowers about 3 cm across, rare indoors and only on older plants.
- Fruit
- Small, round, purple berries about 1–2 cm across that look like bilberries; they are eaten in Mexico.
Plants: March–April · Pruning: April–May
In your garden
Why grow it?
- A striking blue-green column that looks good all year round, even without flowers.
- Fairly fast-growing for a cactus and soon becomes a sturdy, sculptural plant.
- Very little work: little water, no strict pruning and hardly any feeding.
- Easy to propagate from stem cuttings of broken or shortened branches.
- Suits a modern or tropical-looking living room and goes well with green and grey foliage.
Blue candle: where does it grow best?
- Full sun, for example on a south- or west-facing windowsill. In summer it may go outdoors, under cover and sheltered from rain.
- Very free-draining, mineral mix: cactus compost half and half with coarse sand, fine grit or pumice; neutral.
- Dry: let the soil dry out completely between waterings and never let water stand in the saucer.
- Put it in a sturdy, deep pot in a permanent spot with room for the side branches; a heavy pot stops it toppling over.
- Light
- Sunny
- Potting soil
- Cactus compost
- Acidity
- Neutral
- Watering
- Sparingly
- Size
- 1 m tall, 0.6 m wide
- Temperature
- Minimum 10 °C
Goes well with
- Prickly pear: A flat cactus with rounded pads that contrasts with the straight column.
- Agave: A sturdy grey-blue rosette that goes well with the blue-green.
- Aloe: Fleshy, calm foliage for the same sunny, dry spot.
- Echeveria: A low rosette in blue-grey tones at the foot of the column.
Maintenance
Blue candle: when and how to plant it?
Plant in March–April.
- Repot in March–April, at the start of growth, or as soon as the plant fills its pot; usually every 2–3 years.
- Wear thick gloves or hold the plant with folded newspaper or foam; the spines prick.
- Choose a sturdy, deep pot with a drainage hole, one size up from the old one; terracotta dries out faster than plastic.
- Fill with a mix of cactus compost and coarse sand or grit, set the plant at the same depth as before and firm lightly.
- Do not water for about a week after repotting so that damaged roots can heal.
Care
- Water
- From April to September water when the soil is completely dry, roughly every 1–2 weeks depending on the heat; let the excess drain away. In winter little or none.
- Feeding
- From May to August, once a month, give cactus feed at the recommended dose or slightly weaker. Not in winter.
- Light
- Plenty of sun. After winter, get it used to strong sunlight gradually, or it will get yellow or brown sunburnt patches.
- Turning
- Give the pot a quarter turn now and then so that the plant grows straight and evenly instead of leaning towards the light.
- Repotting
- Every 2–3 years in spring, in fresh, mineral mix in a sturdy pot.
Tip: It grows fairly quickly: give it a heavy, deep pot, full sun and, in winter, a dry, bright spot above 10 °C, and it will stay free of spots.
Blue candle: when to prune it?
Pruning months: April–May.
When: It is not really pruned. In April–May you can shorten a plant that is too tall or leaning, and you get cuttings at the same time.
How:
- Cut through a branch or the trunk at the height you want with a clean, sharp saw or knife, wearing thick gloves and using folded newspaper.
- Let the wound on the plant dry in the open air for a few days; new side branches often form below the cut.
- Cut away rotten or shrivelled parts back to healthy, green tissue.
- Use the cut pieces as cuttings; see propagation.
Caution: It has spines and is heavy and awkward to cut: wear thick gloves and protect your eyes.
Propagation
- Cuttings
- In spring or summer cut off a branch with a clean knife and let it dry for 1–2 weeks until the wound has formed a skin. Stand it upright in a dry, sandy mix and give a small drop of water only after 3–4 weeks, when it has rooted.
- Seed
- In spring sow on a sandy mix, barely covering the seed, under clear film at 20–25 °C in a bright place. The seedlings grow slowly.
Blue candle: how does it get through the winter?
- Not hardy in Belgium: keep it above 10 °C. The best winter spot is bright and cool, at 10–15 °C.
- Keep the soil dry or almost dry from October to March; cold plus wet causes rot and spots.
- Do not leave it in a cold draught or against a cold window, or directly above a radiator: dry, hot air invites scale insects.
Diseases and pests
- Spots: Yellow, brown or corky patches on the stem after cold, damp spells, especially in winter. Keep it dry and above 10 °C; the patches do not go away, but new growth stays healthy.
- Rot: Soft, brown or dark stem base from too much water or watering in the cold. Stop watering, cut away rotten parts back to healthy tissue and root a healthy piece as a cutting.
- Stretching: A thin, pale, elongated top means too little light. Move it to a sunnier spot; you can shorten the stretched part.
- Mealybug and scale: White, cottony tufts or brown scales between the ribs and near the spines. Remove them with a soft brush or cotton bud and repeat after a week.
- Sunburn: Yellow or brown dried-out patches after sudden strong sun, for example after winter. Get it used to the sun gradually.
Through the year
- January: Rest: dry, bright, 10–15 °C. No water.
- February: Rest: dry and bright. No water.
- March: Repotting possible. Gradually get it used to more sun.
- April: Repot or shorten. Start watering when the soil is dry.
- May: Water when the soil is dry. Start feeding. Take cuttings.
- June: Water when the soil is dry and feed. Plenty of sun and fresh air.
- July: Water when the soil is dry and feed.
- August: Water when the soil is dry. Last feed.
- September: Last watering when the soil is dry. No more feeding.
- October: Bring indoors before it turns cold. Almost stop watering.
- November: Rest: dry and bright, above 10 °C.
- December: Rest: dry and bright, above 10 °C.
You and this species
Did you know?
- The name Myrtillocactus refers to the Latin myrtillus (little myrtle or bilberry) and alludes to its bilberry-like fruits.
- In Mexico the fruits are called garambullos and are eaten and sold there.
- The blue waxy bloom on the stem protects the plant from too much sun and from drying out.