Daisy bush

Daisy bush: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Dense, rounded, evergreen shrub about 2 m tall and wide.

Foliage

Oval and leathery, 2–5 cm long; dark green above, white and felty beneath.

Flowers

Clusters of small white daisies with a yellow centre, in July–August.

Scent

The flowers have a light, sweet scent, especially on a warm day.

Roots

Not very deep; it likes well-drained soil and dislikes wet feet.

Flowering: July–August · Plants: April–May · Pruning: April and September

Why grow it?

• Fragrant white flowers in July–August, when many other shrubs have finished flowering.
• Attracts bees and butterflies.
• Evergreen: a dense, calm shrub with leaves all year round.
• Tolerates sea wind and salty air: ideal for coastal gardens and as a windbreak.
• Tolerates dry soil and needs little care once established.
• Lovely as a specimen, in a mixed hedge or in a sunny border.

Daisy bush: where does it grow best?

• Full sun, in a warm, open spot; the more sun, the better it flowers.
• Well-drained soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky, as long as the water can drain away.
• Dry to normally moist; avoid places where water stands in winter.
• It tolerates sea wind, but inland give it shelter from cold, drying easterly winds.
• Allow 1.5–2 m per shrub; for a hedge, plant at 80–100 cm.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

2 m tall, 2 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -15 °C)

Goes well with

• Lavender: Likes the same sun and dry soil; purple flowers next to the white clusters.
• Sage: Grey-green leaves that go well with the felty foliage of the daisy bush.
• Ornamental grasses: Stems that sway in the wind, lovely in a coastal style.
• Sun rose: A low, flowering edge in the sun at its foot.

Daisy bush: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Plant in April–May, so the shrub can root well before winter.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball. In heavy clay, mix in sand or coarse grit for better drainage.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot and firm the soil well.
4. Leave 1.5–2 m between shrubs; in a hedge, 80–100 cm.
5. Water thoroughly straight away, then weekly in dry weather during the first year.
6. Spread a layer of bark or wood chips around the base to protect the roots from frost and drought.

Care

Water

In the first two summers, water generously every week in dry weather. After that it is rarely needed.

Feeding

A little compost or a handful of organic fertiliser in April. Do not overdo it: soil that is too rich gives soft shoots that are sensitive to frost.

Mulching

A layer of bark or leaf mould in November protects the roots from frost and drought.

Spent flowers

Cut off the faded clusters after flowering: this keeps the shrub compact and tidy.

Tip: Give it a sunny, well-drained spot and wait until April to cut out frost damage: it often shoots again from the base.

Daisy bush: when to prune it?

Pruning months: April and September.

When: Light pruning can be done straight after flowering, in September. Cut out frost damage only in April, when you can see which branches shoot again.

How:

• Shorten faded clusters and branches that are too long back to a healthy side shoot.
• Keep the shape compact and rounded; spread a big prune over two years rather than doing everything at once.
• In April, cut brown, frosted branches back to green wood.

Caution: Do not prune in late autumn: new shoots are then easily killed by frost.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Cuttings

From July to September: semi-ripe cuttings of 8–10 cm with a small heel of old wood, in a mix of sand and potting compost under plastic. They root in a few weeks to a few months; overwinter them frost-free.

Seed

Seed from a hybrid does not give identical plants, so cuttings are the reliable method.

Daisy bush: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −15 °C: protect young plants.

• Hardy down to about −15 °C: usually safe in a sheltered spot in Flanders.
• Keep it out of cold, drying easterly winds. In hard frost you can cover it with horticultural fleece or a reed mat.
• Young plants get a thick layer of mulch around the base. In a pot, move them to a frost-free place or wrap them in hessian.

Diseases and pests

• Frost damage: Brown, dried-out leaves and branches after a cold winter. Wait until April to prune: it often shoots again from the base.
• Root rot: Wilting, yellow leaves caused by soil that is too wet, especially in winter. Improve drainage or move it to a drier spot.
• Becoming bare: Bare at the base because of shade or too little pruning. Give it plenty of sun and prune lightly after flowering.
• Aphids: Small green aphids on young shoots in spring. A jet of water is usually enough.

Through the year

• April: Plant. Cut out frost damage. Apply compost.
• May: Plant. Water after planting.
• June: Water in dry weather, especially young plants.
• July: Flowering begins: fragrant clusters buzzing with bees. Take cuttings.
• August: Full flower. Cut off faded clusters.
• September: Light pruning after flowering. Take semi-ripe cuttings.
• November: Mulch against frost. Protect young plants.
• December: Rest. Cover in hard frost.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• Olearia belongs to the daisy family, like the daisy and the sunflower: the flowers really are small daisies.
• The genus is named after Johann Gottfried Olearius, a German botanist of the 17th century.
• The white, felty underside of the leaves helps to limit evaporation, useful in wind and salty air.