Blushing philodendron

Blushing philodendron: how do you recognise it?

Growth habit

Evergreen climber (hemi-epiphyte) that reaches 1.5–2 m tall and about 60 cm wide indoors; without support it creeps or trails.

Leaves

Arrow- to heart-shaped, 20–30 cm, glossy dark green with a coppery, red or purple flush, especially on young leaves.

Stems and stalks

Red to purple-brown stems and leaf stalks; young leaves unfurl from a red sheath.

Aerial roots

Brown aerial roots grow at the nodes, helping it cling on and take up moisture. You do not need to cut them off.

Sap

All parts contain calcium oxalate crystals: they are toxic if eaten and can irritate the skin.

Plants: March–May · Pruning: March–April

Why grow it?

• Large, glossy, arrow-shaped leaves with a coppery or red flush: plenty of ornamental value in one plant.
• Grows as a climber or a trailing plant and quickly gives a room a jungle feel.
• Tolerates subdued light better than many other houseplants and forgives a missed watering.
• Evergreen and easy to propagate from stem cuttings.
• There are lovely cultivars with red or pink leaves for anyone looking for something special.

Blushing philodendron: where does it grow best?

• Bright light to light half shade without direct midday sun: near an east- or north-facing window or some distance from a south-facing one. It tolerates subdued light, but then grows more slowly with smaller leaves.
• Airy, humus-rich potting compost with about a third of perlite and bark; acid to neutral and free-draining.
• Warm: 18–26 °C and never below 12 °C.
• A humidity of 50 % or more suits it; a tray of damp clay pebbles or a humidifier helps. Give it a moss pole or a trellis and keep it out of draughts.

Light

Bright, out of direct sun or low light

Potting soil

Multi-purpose compost or airy, humus-rich compost

Acidity

Acid or neutral

Watering

Moderately

Size

2 m tall, 0.6 m wide

Temperature

Minimum 12 °C

Goes well with

• Monstera: The same light, the same moss pole and the same jungle feel.
• Golden pothos (Epipremnum): A second climber or trailing plant with the same care.
• Calathea: A striking leaf pattern next to the plain, glossy leaves.
• Ferns: A fine, airy leaf texture as a contrast to the large leaves.

Blushing philodendron: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–May.

1. Repot in March–May, about every 2 years or as soon as the roots grow out of the pot. Wear gloves: the sap can irritate the skin.
2. Choose a pot with drainage holes that is one size (2–4 cm) larger than the last.
3. Use airy potting compost with a third of bark and perlite so that water drains well.
4. Set the plant at the same depth as before. Put a moss pole or climbing support in as you repot and tie the stems to it loosely.
5. Water until it runs out of the holes, let the saucer drain and then keep the top layer lightly moist.

Care

Water

Let the compost dry out halfway (the top 3–5 cm) between waterings: in summer usually weekly, in winter every 10–14 days. Water with lukewarm water until it runs out of the holes and empty the saucer.

Feeding

From March to September every 2–4 weeks, half a dose of houseplant feed. Not in winter.

Support

Give it a moss pole or coir pole and keep it slightly moist: the aerial roots cling to it and the leaves get bigger.

Humidity

It likes 50 % or more. A tray of damp clay pebbles or a humidifier helps, especially in a heated room.

Cleaning

Dust the large leaves with a damp cloth (wear gloves) and turn the pot now and then for even growth.

Tip: Give it a moss pole that you keep lightly moist: the aerial roots cling on and the leaves grow bigger. Let the compost dry out halfway between waterings and turn the pot now and then.

Blushing philodendron: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March–April.

When: In March–April, before growth picks up again. Small corrections can be made all year round.

How:

• Cut stems that are too long or bare back to just above a node (with an aerial root): new shoots grow from there.
• Remove yellow or damaged leaves with their stalk at the base.
• On variegated cultivars, cut all-green shoots back to just above a variegated leaf.
• Use the cut-off tips as cuttings.

Caution: Wear gloves: the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals and irritates skin and eyes. Wash your hands and the tool after pruning.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Stem cuttings

From March to August: cut a piece of 10–15 cm with at least one node (with an aerial root) and 1–2 leaves. Put it in water or in moist, airy compost at 20–25 °C. Roots appear after 2–4 weeks; pot a cutting rooted in water into compost afterwards.

Air layering

Wrap a node with an aerial root in damp sphagnum moss and cover it with plastic. As soon as roots show in the moss, cut the top off below it and pot it up.

Blushing philodendron: how does it get through the winter?

• Not hardy: the minimum temperature is 12 °C. It overwinters indoors.
• Keep it bright and at 16–20 °C. Below 12 °C it suffers cold damage: limp leaves that turn black.
• Water less: let the compost dry out a little further in winter, usually every 2 weeks.
• Do not put it above a radiator or in a draught and do not feed from October to February inclusive. Keep the leaves dust-free so that they catch the weak light well.

Diseases and pests

• Yellow leaves: Usually too wet (root rot) or an old leaf dying off. Check the compost, let it dry out and make sure the pot drains. An occasional yellow lower leaf is normal.
• Brown leaf edges or tips: Dry air, hard water or over-feeding. Flush the compost through thoroughly and raise the humidity.
• Long, sparse stems with small leaves: Too little light. Move it somewhere brighter, give it support and cut long stems back.
• Spider mites, mealybugs and scale: Fine webbing, white fluffy patches or brown shields under the leaves. Rinse the plant or wipe it with soapy water and repeat weekly.

Through the year

• January: Rest: bright, 16–20 °C, sparing with water.
• February: Rest. Dust the leaves.
• March: Prune and repot. Put in a moss pole. Water a little more again.
• April: Repot. Start feeding (half dose). Take cuttings.
• May: Growth. Repotting still possible. Water regularly.
• June: Growth. Take cuttings.
• July: Growth. Shade from strong midday sun.
• August: Growth. Feed every 2–4 weeks.
• September: Last feed.
• October: Stop feeding. Water less.
• November: Rest: bright and sparing with water.
• December: Rest. Keep away from radiators.

Edible and useful

Not edible. All parts of these houseplants of the arum family are poisonous: the sap is full of needle-shaped crystals (calcium oxalate) which, when chewed, at once cause burning pain and swelling of the lips, mouth and throat, with drooling and sometimes vomiting. Most at risk are cats, which like to chew trailing stems and leaves, dogs, and young children playing on the floor. Hang climbers and trailing plants out of their reach, clear up cut stems and cuttings straight away, and do not put a glass of cuttings in water where a cat drinks from it. Wear gloves when pruning and repotting, do not rub your eyes, and wash your hands afterwards. If your cat or dog drools or its mouth swells, call your vet. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Did you know?

• The species name erubescens comes from the Latin for ‘turning red’: young leaves, stems and leaf stalks have a red flush.
• Philodendron means ‘tree-loving’ (Greek philos and dendron): in the wild they climb up tree trunks.
• On the variegated ‘Pink Princess’ the pink patches are not stable: a shoot can revert to green. Cut it back to just above the last pink leaf.