Oriental plane

Oriental plane: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Large, broad-spreading tree 20–25 m tall and 15–20 m wide, with a thick, often gnarled trunk and a broad, rounded crown.

Leaves

Hand-shaped, deeply cut into 5–7 lobes, 10–25 cm; fresh green, yellow-brown in autumn.

Flowers

Inconspicuous, round flower heads in May; the female ones become spiky fruit balls.

Fruit

Spiky balls, usually three to six on one long, hanging stalk; they stay on the tree into winter.

Bark

Flakes off in large plates, leaving patches of grey, green and cream.

Flowering: May · Plants: March–April and October–December · Pruning: January–February

Why grow it?

• An impressive, majestic tree with a broad crown and plenty of summer shade.
• Deeply cut leaves and flaking bark give character all year.
• Tolerates pruning well, so it can be shaped as a pollard or pleached tree.
• Tough and city-proof: it thrives on most soils and tolerates drought well.
• Very long-lived: a tree for the long term.

Oriental plane: where does it grow best?

• Full sun; in shade it becomes bare and thin.
• Deep, well-drained sandy, loamy or clay soil, acid to chalky; it is not fussy.
• Normal moisture; once established it tolerates drought and temporarily wet soil, but not permanently standing water.
• Allow 15–20 m of free space; do not plant it close to houses, pipes or boundaries.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

25 m tall, 20 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -25 °C)

Goes well with

• Snowdrop: Flowers early in the year, before the tree is in leaf.
• Wood anemone: A white carpet in spring under the still-bare crown.
• Ivy: An evergreen ground cover for the deep shade under the tree.
• English oak: A native tree for a roomy, landscape-style planting.

Oriental plane: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and October–December.

1. Plant in March–April or in October–December, as long as the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole two to three times as wide as the rootball and just as deep. Loosen the sides and bottom with the spade.
3. Set the tree at the same depth as it stood in the nursery; the root collar should be level with the soil. Do not plant deeper.
4. Backfill and firm the soil gently. Fit a stake and tie the trunk to it with a broad tie.
5. Water generously and spread wood chips or compost around the base, not against the trunk.

Care

Water

In the first two to three summers, water generously once a week in dry weather. After that it usually manages on rain.

Feeding

Usually not needed. On poor soil a little compost in spring is enough.

Mulching

A layer of wood chips or leaf mould keeps the soil moist and suppresses weeds. Keep it away from the trunk.

Support

A stake stays for 2–3 years; check that the tie is not cutting into the trunk.

Leaf litter

The large leaves rot slowly. Leave them as mulch under the tree or collect them for the compost heap.

Tip: Want a pollarded plane? Start young and cut last year’s shoots back to 2–3 buds every winter. Always give it plenty of room and do not plant it close to buildings.

Oriental plane: when to prune it?

Pruning months: January–February.

When: In January–February, while it is dormant, in dry, frost-free weather.

How:

• Young tree: in the first years, prune only to form a strong trunk and a balanced crown.
• Pollard or pleached tree: cut last year’s shoots back to 2–3 buds every winter.
• Remove dead, crossing and damaged branches back to the branch collar.
• Use clean, disinfected secateurs and saws, especially when you prune several trees.

Caution: Do not remove large branches without good reason: big wounds close slowly and let fungi in.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Winter cuttings

In November–February, push 25–30 cm cuttings of sturdy, one-year-old shoots into moist, loose soil outdoors. A good share root during the year.

Seed

Collect the fruit balls in winter and sow the seeds outdoors in spring, after a cold winter. Seedlings grow slowly at first.

Oriental plane: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −25 °C.

• Hardy to about −25 °C: no protection is needed for mature trees in Flanders.
• Young trees: a thick layer of mulch around the base protects the roots from severe frost.
• A tree of this size does not belong in a pot: plant it in open ground only.

Diseases and pests

• Anthracnose: Brown leaf spots and dying young shoots after a cold, wet spring. Clear fallen leaves and cut out affected shoots; the tree usually recovers.
• Powdery mildew: White powder on young leaves, especially in dry weather. Usually harmless for a healthy tree.
• Plane lace bug: Pale spots on top of the leaf and black dots beneath. A healthy tree usually copes; make sure it gets enough water.
• Flaking bark: The flaking of the bark is normal and gives the tree its mosaic. It is not a disease.

Through the year

• January: Prune while dormant, in dry, frost-free weather.
• February: Prune. Pollards: cut shoots back to 2–3 buds.
• March: Plant. Check the stake.
• April: Plant. The leaves unfurl.
• May: Inconspicuous flower balls. Water young trees in dry weather.
• June: Water young trees in dry weather. Watch for powdery mildew.
• July: Water young trees.
• August: Water during prolonged drought.
• October: Plant. Yellow-brown autumn colour.
• November: Plant. Clear fallen leaves or leave them as mulch.
• December: Plant. Fruit balls still hang on the tree.

Did you know?

• The London plane (Platanus × hispanica) in Flemish streets is a cross between the Oriental plane and the American sycamore.
• On the Greek island of Kos stands an old Oriental plane known as the ‘tree of Hippocrates’; according to legend the ancient physician taught beneath it.
• Three to six fruit balls usually hang on one stalk: this sets it apart from the London plane, which usually has two.