Maltese cross

Maltese cross: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Upright clump about 90 cm tall and 40 cm wide, with sturdy, unbranched stems that die back in winter.

Foliage

Opposite, oval to lance-shaped, 5–10 cm, rough and mid-green; the leaves clasp the stem without a stalk.

Flower

Dense, flat heads 5–10 cm across with dozens of scarlet flowers; each flower has five deeply notched petals. Flowers from June to August.

Colour

Vivid vermilion to scarlet; white (‘Alba’) and pink forms also exist.

Roots

Fibrous, with a sturdy crown that forms a wider clump over the years.

Flowering: June–August · Sowing: March–April · Plants: March–May and September–October · Pruning: March and August

Why grow it?

• Brilliant scarlet colour in the summer border, from June to August.
• Bees and butterflies visit the nectar-rich flowers.
• Good cut flower: the heads last well in a vase.
• Fully hardy and vigorous: the clump grows bigger with the years.
• Easy to sow and divide, so you can easily have more.

Maltese cross: where does it grow best?

• Full sun or light half shade; in full sun the plant needs extra water in dry weather.
• Ordinary garden soil, sand, loam or clay: tolerates acid to chalky. Moist, humus-rich soil is ideal.
• Normal moisture: do not let the soil dry out completely in summer, but avoid wet winters.
• Sheltered from strong wind, because the tall stems can flop.
• Allow 35–45 cm between plants; set 3–5 together for more effect.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

0.9 m tall, 0.4 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Sage: Blue-purple spikes in the same months make a strong contrast with the red.
• Bellflower: Blue or white bells at the foot of the red heads.
• Shasta daisy: White flowers with yellow eyes to soften the vivid red.
• Ornamental grasses: Airy plumes that loosen up the brightly coloured planting.

Maltese cross: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–May and September–October.

1. Plant in March–May or in September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Work a few spadefuls of compost into the planting soil and lighten heavy clay with a little sand.
3. Plant at the same depth as in the pot, with the crown at soil level.
4. Space plants 35–45 cm apart and water thoroughly straight away.
5. Spread a layer of compost or leaf mould around the clump, keeping the crown itself clear.

Care

Water

Water at the base in prolonged drought. A dried-out clump flowers poorly and is more prone to mildew.

Feeding

In March, a spadeful of compost or organic fertiliser; do not overfeed, or the stems become tall and floppy.

Mulching

A layer of compost in spring keeps the soil moist and weed-free.

Support

In a windy garden, put in a support ring or twigs as the shoots appear, so the stems stay upright.

Spent flowers

Cut off the heads once they fade: it extends flowering and prevents heavy self-seeding.

Dividing

Divide the clump every 3–4 years in spring or autumn to rejuvenate it.

Tip: In a windy garden, support the stems in good time and cut off spent heads: flowering lasts longer and the plant self-sows less.

Maltese cross: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March and August.

When: In July–August cut off spent flower heads, and in March cut back the old stems.

How:

• Cut spent heads back to just above a side shoot or the leaves below.
• In March cut all old, dead stems down to just above the ground.
• Do not leave seed capsules if you do not want the plant to self-sow.
• For a bouquet, cut stems when the lowest flowers of the head are open.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

In March–April sow indoors in seed compost at 15–20 °C and cover the seed thinly. It germinates within a few weeks; prick out and plant outside after mid-May. Flowers in the first or second year.

Division

In spring or September, lift the clump and divide it into pieces with roots and shoots; replant straight away.

Basal cuttings

In spring, cut young shoots 5–8 cm long from the base and set them in moist cutting compost.

Maltese cross: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Fully hardy to about −30 °C: no protection needed in Belgium.
• The stems die back; leave them until March or cut them down in autumn.
• The only risk is wet, heavy soil in winter: ensure good drainage.

Diseases and pests

• Slugs: They eat the young shoots in spring. Collect them in the evening or lay a plank to trap them.
• Aphids: On young shoots and flower buds. Rinse them off with water or let ladybirds do their work.
• Powdery mildew: White powder on the leaves, especially in dry weather. Water, allow space and cut off affected leaves.
• Flopping stems: In strong wind or too-rich soil. Add support and feed moderately.

Through the year

• March: Sow indoors at 15–20 °C. Cut back old stems. Plant or divide.
• April: Sow indoors. Plant. Watch for slugs.
• May: Plant out seedlings. Put in supports.
• June: Flowering begins. Water in dry weather.
• July: Full flower. Cut flowers. Cut off faded heads.
• August: Last flowers. Cut off spent heads.
• September: Plant or divide.
• October: Plant. Leave stems until March or cut them down.
• December: Rest.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• The species name chalcedonica refers to Chalcedon, an ancient city on the Bosphorus near present-day Istanbul.
• The flower has five deeply notched petals that seem to form a cross, hence the names Maltese cross and Cross of Jerusalem.
• The plant has been grown in European gardens for centuries and was long a stalwart of cottage gardens.