Meyer lilac

Meyer lilac: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Dense, rounded shrub 1–1.5 m tall and as wide, with many fine twigs.

Leaves

Small, round to oval, 2–4 cm, dark green and opposite. No notable autumn colour.

Flowers

Short, upright panicles of 5–10 cm with small tubular flowers, in May and often again in September.

Colour

Lilac to pinkish lilac; the buds are darker than the open flowers.

Scent

Sweet and strong, the classic lilac fragrance.

Flowering: May–June and September · Plants: March–April and October–November · Pruning: June

Why grow it?

• The scent and flowers of a lilac in a compact size: it also fits a small garden or a patio.
• Flowers profusely in May and often a second time in autumn.
• Bees and butterflies love the scented flowers.
• Very hardy and happy on chalky soil.
• Suitable for a large pot, a low flowering hedge or as a standard.

Meyer lilac: where does it grow best?

• Sun is ideal; in partial shade it flowers less freely.
• Well-drained soil: sandy, loamy or clay, neutral to chalky.
• Average soil that does not dry out and where water does not stand.
• Place it near a patio, path or window so you can enjoy the scent.
• Allow 1–1.5 m per plant; as a low hedge, 60–80 cm apart.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

1.5 m tall, 1.5 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Tulips: Flower just before the lilac and fill the ground beneath it in spring.
• Ornamental onion: Purple globes in May–June, at the same time as the lilac panicles.
• Catmint: A low blue edging that also likes sun and chalk.
• Peony: Large flowers in May–June, in the same sunny border.
• Lady’s mantle: Soft yellow flowers at the front, covering the base.

Meyer lilac: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and October–November.

1. Plant in March–April or October–November, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in a few spadefuls of compost.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm the soil well. For a standard: put in a stake at the same time and tie the stem loosely.
4. Keep 1–1.5 m from other shrubs.
5. Water in thoroughly straight away, even if it is raining.
6. Spread a layer of compost or wood chips around the base.

Care

Watering

Weekly in dry spells in the first year. After that only in long dry periods; regularly in a pot.

Feeding

In March–April, compost or an organic feed for flowering shrubs.

Spent flowers

Cut off the spent panicles in June; this keeps the shrub tidy and can encourage autumn flowering.

Suckers

On a standard or grafted plant: remove shoots from the rootstock below the graft straight away.

In a pot

A pot of at least 40–50 cm with a loam-based compost and drainage holes. In summer, water almost daily.

Tip: Cut off the spent panicles in June and give it a light trim at the same time. This keeps it compact and often brings a second flush of flowers in autumn.

Meyer lilac: when to prune it?

Pruning months: June.

When: In June, straight after the first flush of flowers.

How:

• Cut off the spent panicles just above a few leaves.
• Shorten over-long stems to keep the rounded shape.
• Remove dead, weak and crossing stems.
• For a standard: lightly trim the head into a neat ball.

Caution: Do not prune in winter or spring: the flower buds for May are already on the stems by then.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Softwood cuttings

In June: 8–10 cm cuttings from young, non-flowering shoots, in moist cutting compost under plastic. Roots after a few weeks.

Layering

In spring, bend a low stem to the ground, lightly wound the bark and peg it down under some soil. Sever after a year.

Meyer lilac: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Very hardy, to about −30 °C: no protection needed in Belgian gardens.
• In a pot: stand it against a wall and wrap the pot in hessian or bubble wrap so the roots do not freeze.
• A standard in a pot can blow over; stand the pot in a sheltered spot or secure it.

Diseases and pests

• No flowers: Usually pruned too late or too much shade. Only prune in June and choose a sunny spot.
• Suckers: On grafted plants, shoots from the rootstock appear with different, larger leaves. Cut or pull them off as low as possible.
• Lilac leaf miner: Brown blotches and rolled leaves caused by small caterpillars in summer. Pick off affected leaves; the damage is usually limited.
• Powdery mildew: White powder on the leaves in late summer. It is less prone to it than common lilac; give it an airy spot and water at the base.

Through the year

• March: Plant. Give compost or feed.
• April: Plant. Remove suckers.
• May: Full flower with a strong scent. Bees and butterflies.
• June: Last flowers. Cut off spent panicles and prune lightly. Take softwood cuttings.
• July: Water pots regularly.
• August: Water in dry spells.
• September: Often a second, smaller flush of flowers.
• October: Plant.
• November: Plant. Protect pots for winter.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• The American plant collector Frank Meyer found it in 1908 in a garden near Beijing; it has never been found in the wild.
• Lilac belongs to the olive family, together with olive, ash, privet and jasmine.
• It is much less prone to powdery mildew than common lilac.