Emperor tulip

Emperor tulip: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Bulb about 45 cm tall and 15 cm wide, with sturdy, upright flower stems.

Leaves

Broad, grey-green, 2–4 leaves per bulb. They die back in June.

Flower

Large, cup-shaped flowers that open wide in the sun, in April. Often red, also white, yellow or orange.

Bulb

Egg-shaped, 3–5 cm, with a brown tunic. Forms offsets over time.

Origin

Descended from a wild tulip of the mountains of Central Asia; hence its need for sun and a dry summer rest.

Flowering: April · Plants: October–December

Why grow it?

• Large, colourful flowers in April, when spring is at its best.
• Sturdy stems that stand up well to wind and rain: no staking needed.
• Often come back for years, especially if you plant them deep and leave them alone after flowering.
• Lovely as a cut flower: the blooms stay beautiful for a long time in a vase.
• An early source of pollen for bees and other insects.

Emperor tulip: where does it grow best?

• Full sun; the flowers only open well in light and warmth.
• Well-drained sandy, loamy or clay soil, neutral to chalky. On heavy clay mix in sand.
• Dry to normally moist; in summer after flowering the soil must not be wet.
• Plant in groups of 10–15 bulbs, 10–15 cm apart, in a border or a large pot.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.45 m tall, 0.15 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -25 °C)

Goes well with

• Forget-me-not: A blue carpet that makes the red or white of the tulip stand out.
• Grape hyacinth: Blue flowers in the same weeks and in the same sun.
• Daffodil: Yellow flowers in the same period, and tough as old boots.
• Horned violet: Colourful little flowers that cover the soil and flower for a long time.

Emperor tulip: when and how to plant it?

Plant in October–December.

1. Plant in October, November or December. Preferably in November, when the soil is colder: this reduces the risk of tulip fire.
2. Plant them about 15 cm deep, pointed end up. Planted deeper, they flower for more years.
3. Space them 10–15 cm apart, preferably in groups of 10 or more for a good effect.
4. On heavy clay mix coarse sand under and into the soil for good drainage.
5. Firm the soil and water if it is very dry.

Care

Water

Usually not needed: spring rain is enough. Water in a dry spring and, in a pot, when the compost is dry.

Feeding

Compost at planting is enough. After flowering you can give a light feed for bulbs.

Spent flowers

Cut off the spent flower as soon as the petals fall, but leave the stem and leaves.

Foliage

Let the leaves turn yellow, about six weeks after flowering: this lets the bulb build up reserves for next year.

Summer rest

Keep the soil as dry as possible after flowering: a dry, warm summer helps the bulb form new flower buds.

Tip: Plant the bulbs 15 cm deep in November in free-draining soil. Planted deeper, they flower for more years, and a dry summer rest helps the bulb to flower.

Emperor tulip: when to prune it?

When: A tulip is not pruned. You cut off at most the spent flower or pick flowers for a bouquet.

How:

• Cut off spent flowers when the petals fall, so that the plant does not spend energy on seed.
• Leave the stem and leaves until they are yellow and limp, usually in June.
• Pull or cut away the dry leaves only when they come away by themselves.

Caution: Never cut off the leaves while they are green: the bulb would get too few reserves and flower less next year.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Offsets

Lift the bulbs in June–July, when the leaves have died back. Detach the offsets, let them dry and replant them in October. Small bulbs flower after a few years.

Seed

Sow seed of the species in autumn in a pot left outdoors. It takes six to seven years until the first flowering; the colourful hybrids do not come true from seed.

Emperor tulip: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −25 °C.

• Fully hardy down to about −25 °C: no protection is needed in Belgium.
• The bulbs need a cold winter to flower in spring.
• In a pot or trough: stand it outdoors in a sheltered spot and wrap the pot in hessian or bubble wrap so the roots do not freeze.

Diseases and pests

• Tulip fire: Grey mould, brown spots and crinkled leaves in spring. Remove affected plants and bulbs and do not plant tulips in that spot again for at least three to four years.
• Aphids: On young leaves and flowers in spring. Spray them off with water or let ladybirds do their work.
• Bulb rot: Soft bulbs, especially in wet soil. Ensure good drainage and throw away soft bulbs.
• Voles and wildlife: Mice, rabbits and deer eat bulbs and flowers. Plant the bulbs in wire-mesh baskets or in a pot.

Through the year

• March: The leaves come up.
• April: Flowering. Cut flowers for a vase. Remove spent flowers.
• May: Let the leaves die back. Water in very dry weather.
• June: Leaves have died back. Lift the bulbs if you wish and let them dry.
• July: Summer rest. Keep dry.
• September: Buy the bulbs and check for rot.
• October: Planting begins, 15 cm deep.
• November: Best time to plant.
• December: Last chance to plant, as long as the soil is not frozen.

Edible and useful

Not edible. Tulips are poisonous, especially the bulbs: they cause vomiting and diarrhoea, in horses too, and in cats and dogs that dig up or chew the bulbs. A tulip bulb looks like an onion or shallot but does not smell of onion when cut. So never store bulbs you lift after flowering with the vegetables in the kitchen, cellar or shed, and label them. Handling lots of bulbs can cause a skin rash (tulip fingers): wear gloves when planting. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Did you know?

• The species name fosteriana refers to Michael Foster, a British physiologist and plant lover who was a well-known grower of bulbs and irises.
• In the official classification of tulips, Fosteriana tulips form a group of their own (Division 13).
• ‘Madame Lefeber’ is one of the best-known Fosteriana tulips and is also sold as ‘Red Emperor’.