Wild tulip

Wild tulip: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Slender bulb 25–35 cm tall with one, sometimes two flowers per stem; forms loose groups through its runners.

Leaves

Narrow and linear, greyish green, usually two or three per plant; dies back around June.

Flower

Star-shaped, with pointed petals; the bud nods at first and straightens as it opens. Closes in the evening and in dull weather.

Colour

Bright yellow, the outer petals flushed green or reddish on the back.

Scent

Sweet and fresh, most noticeable in sunny weather.

Bulb

Small bulb that forms underground runners, with a new bulb developing at the end of each.

Flowering: April–May · Plants: September–November

Why grow it?

• Naturalises on its own in grass, under trees and in borders, and returns every year.
• Sweetly scented, bright yellow flowers in April–May.
• A classic plant of old estates that fits beautifully in a natural garden.
• No need to lift it: plant once and let it get on with it.
• Graceful in a small vase, with nodding buds and open stars.

Wild tulip: where does it grow best?

• Sun to partial shade: under deciduous trees it gets enough light in spring. In deep shade it makes lots of leaves and few flowers.
• Sand, loam or clay, neutral to chalky, as long as the soil does not stay wet for long.
• Moderately moist soil; in summer the dormant bulb copes with drought.
• Plant in groups, 8–10 cm apart; after that it fills the space by itself.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Normal

Size

0.35 m tall, 0.1 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -25 °C)

Goes well with

• Wood anemone: A white carpet under trees in March–April, in the same spot.
• Snake’s head fritillary: Chequered bells in April, also for naturalising in grass.
• Grape hyacinth: Blue beside the yellow, at the same time.
• Bluebell: Blue bells under trees in April–May, ideal for a natural woodland edge.

Wild tulip: when and how to plant it?

Plant in September–November.

1. Plant in September–November, once the soil has cooled down.
2. Make planting holes or a wide pit and, on heavy soil, mix in some coarse sand.
3. Set the bulbs 10 cm deep, pointed end up.
4. Leave 8–10 cm between bulbs and plant in loose, natural groups of at least ten.
5. In grass: lift a piece of turf, place the bulbs in the hole and put the turf back.
6. Firm the soil and water if the ground is dry.

Care

Water

Usually not needed; only water during growth in a very dry spring.

Feeding

Not needed. On poor soil you can spread a thin layer of compost in spring.

Mowing

Only mow once the leaves have died back, around June.

Spent flowers

Leave them if you want it to self-seed. For strong bulbs, remove just the flower and leave the stem and leaves.

Tip: Plant the bulbs in loose groups under trees or in grass and leave them undisturbed. Only mow once the leaves have died back, around June, and it will naturalise by itself through its runners.

Wild tulip: when to prune it?

When: The wild tulip needs no pruning. Simply clear away the dead leaves in June.

How:

• Leave the leaves until they turn yellow and come away easily.
• In grass, only mow once the leaves have died back, around June.
• Remove faded flowers if you would rather have strong bulbs than seed; leave the stem.

Caution: Never cut or mow green leaves: it will flower less the following year.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Bulblets and runners

In June–July, once the leaves have died back: dig up a group, separate the small bulbs and replant them straight away elsewhere, or store them dry until autumn.

Seed

Sow ripe seed in autumn in a pot left outdoors: the seed needs cold. It takes several years before seedlings flower.

Wild tulip: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −25 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −25 °C: no protection needed in Belgium.
• It actually needs winter cold to flower well in spring.
• In a pot: stand the pot in a sheltered spot and make sure the compost does not get waterlogged in winter.

Diseases and pests

• Few flowers: Lots of leaves but few flowers: typical of a spot that is too shady. Give more light and a little patience; a well-established group flowers more freely.
• Mice: Voles and mice eat the bulbs. Plant in a wire basket if they cause a lot of damage in your garden.
• Tulip fire: Brown spots on leaves and flowers and distorted shoots, especially in wet weather. Remove affected plants bulb and all, not on the compost heap.
• Slugs: They eat young shoots and buds. Pick them off in the evening in a damp spring.

Through the year

• January: Rest. The bulbs need the winter cold.
• March: Leaves appear. Do not mow the grass around the bulbs yet.
• April: Flowering. Enjoy the scent in sunny weather.
• May: Last flowers. Leave the foliage.
• June: The leaves die back; after that you can mow.
• July: Dig up and divide overcrowded groups.
• September: Plant.
• October: Plant, also in grass.
• November: Last chance to plant before the ground freezes.

Edible and useful

Not edible. Tulips are poisonous, especially the bulbs: they cause vomiting and diarrhoea, in horses too, and in cats and dogs that dig up or chew the bulbs. A tulip bulb looks like an onion or shallot but does not smell of onion when cut. So never store bulbs you lift after flowering with the vegetables in the kitchen, cellar or shed, and label them. Handling lots of bulbs can cause a skin rash (tulip fingers): wear gloves when planting. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Did you know?

• It is a classic plant of old estates: in the Low Countries it has grown wild for centuries in old castle parks and orchards.
• The flower buds nod downwards at first and only straighten when the flower opens.
• Tulip bulbs contain a substance that can cause a skin rash after frequent handling; among bulb growers this is known as ‘tulip fingers’.