Sticky catchfly

Sticky catchfly: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Compact, loose clump about 40 cm tall and 30 cm wide, with upright, little-branched flower stems.

Leaves

Narrow, lance-shaped and dark green, in a rosette at the base; small opposite leaves on the stem.

Flowers

Small bright pink flowers with five petals, in clusters along the top of the stem, from May to July.

Stem

Below the nodes there is a sticky band on which small insects get stuck.

Seed

Small capsules with plenty of fine seed; on open, dry ground it seeds itself gently.

Flowering: May–July · Plants: March–May and September · Pruning: March and July

Why grow it?

• Bright pink flowers from May to July on dry, poor spots where few other plants flower so well.
• Drought tolerant and frugal: no feeding needed, ideal for a rock garden, gravel garden or dry border.
• Bees and butterflies visit the flowers.
• A native species that belongs in a naturalistic garden.
• The sticky stems are a fun curiosity, especially for children to discover.

Sticky catchfly: where does it grow best?

• Full sun: in shade it becomes tall and floppy and hardly flowers.
• Dry, poor, well-drained soil: sand or sandy loam, acid to neutral.
• Dry to normal: it will not tolerate wet soil, especially in winter.
• No extra compost or fertiliser: on rich soil it flops and is shorter-lived.
• Allow 25–30 cm between plants.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Acid or neutral

Moisture

Dry

Size

0.4 m tall, 0.3 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Bloody cranesbill: Pink-red flowers in the same dry, sunny spot.
• Woodland sage: Violet-blue spikes that contrast beautifully with the bright pink.
• Yarrow: White flat heads that soften the vivid colour of the catchfly.
• Sheep’s fescue: A fine, blue-grey grass that suits a dry border.
• Stonecrop: Finishes the dry border late in the season, when the catchfly has finished flowering.

Sticky catchfly: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–May and September.

1. Plant in March–May or in September, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole as deep as the pot; on heavy soil, mix coarse sand or fine grit into the planting soil.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot: the leaf rosette must not be buried.
4. Keep 25–30 cm between plants and water in thoroughly after planting.
5. Mulch with a thin layer of gravel or grit rather than compost: this keeps the rosette dry.

Care

Water

In the first year, water in dry spells. After that it manages by itself, even in dry summers.

Feeding

Not needed: it flowers best on poor soil.

Spent flowers

After flowering, cut the flower stems back to the rosette. This keeps the clump tidy and limits self-seeding.

Support

Not needed: on poor soil the stems stand upright.

Weeding

Keep young plants free of weeds, as it is not very competitive.

Renewal

It is not very long-lived. Let a few seedlings grow on to replace the older plants.

Tip: Give it full sun, poor, well-drained soil and no fertiliser: that way it stays compact and flowers best. On heavy soil, mix coarse sand or grit into the planting soil.

Sticky catchfly: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March and July.

When: In July after flowering, cut off the spent stems; in March, tidy up the old leaves.

How:

• Cut the spent flower stems in July down to just above the leaf rosette.
• In March, remove dead leaves and dried debris.
• If you want seedlings, leave a few stems until the seed is ripe.

Caution: Do not cut into the green heart of the rosette: the growing points are there.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Sowing

In March–April or in September, outdoors in a sunny spot, in very sandy seed compost. Do not cover the seed, or barely, and firm lightly. Plant out at 25–30 cm.

Division

In spring or in September, lift the clump and divide it into pieces with roots. Replant at once and water.

Sticky catchfly: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Fully hardy, down to about −30 °C. It fears wet feet more than frost.
• On heavy, wet soil, provide good drainage: in a wet winter the rosette can rot away.
• Do not cover the rosette with leaves or compost in winter; it would rot.
• In a pot: use very sandy compost and do not stand the pot in a saucer of water.

Diseases and pests

• Rot: The rosette changes colour or dies in a wet winter. Improve drainage and mix coarse sand or grit into the soil.
• Slugs: Young leaves are nibbled in spring. Pick them off or put a barrier of coarse material around the plant.
• Tall and floppy growth: Too much shade or too much feeding. Give it full sun and no fertiliser.
• Aphids: On young shoots in spring. Rinse them off with water; ladybirds often deal with them.

Through the year

• March: Tidy up old leaves. Plant, divide or sow.
• April: Plant or sow. Mulch with gravel or grit.
• May: Flowering begins.
• June: Full flower. Bees and butterflies visit the flowers.
• July: Last flowers. Cut off the spent stems.
• August: Resting. Collect seed or clear dried stems.
• September: Plant, divide or sow.
• October: Resting. Do not cover the rosette.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• The name Viscaria comes from the Latin viscum, birdlime: the sticky stems are reminiscent of it.
• The Dutch name ‘pekanjer’ refers to pek, pitch, the sticky substance on the stem.
• In the wild it grows mainly on poor, dry, acid soil, such as sandy grassland and rocky slopes.