Quince tree (Cydonia oblonga)

Photo: Klaas "Z4us" V, CC BY-SA 3.0 · source

Pruning guide · Fruit tree

Quince tree: when and how to prune

Cydonia oblonga

Prune a quince tree in winter, in December–February, on a frost-free day: lightly, as the flowers and fruit form at the tips of short shoots.

Quince is a small, twisting fruit tree that needs little pruning. It naturally grows into a graceful, open shape, and in May it bears large, pale pink flowers at the tips of short shoots. So if you shorten those shoots every winter, you cut off next year’s fruit. Pruning a quince is mainly about giving a young tree a good shape, and later removing dead, diseased and awkward wood.

Key facts
Pruning monthsDecember–February
Nesting season (15 March–15 August)Outside it
FloweringMay
Good for bees, butterflies and birdsYes, for bees
Native to BelgiumNo, planted

Quince tree: when to prune it?

Prune in winter, in December–February, when the tree is bare and you can see its shape clearly. Choose a dry, frost-free day: frozen wood breaks and splits more easily.

Cut out shoots with fireblight or heavy leaf spot as soon as you see them, even in summer: that is not pruning, but hygiene.

In winter, also remove the shrivelled fruit, the mummies, from the tree and the ground beneath it: brown rot overwinters in them.

What else to prune in those months? January · February · December

Quince tree: how to prune it?

  1. In the first few years, give a young tree a short trunk with three to five well-spaced main branches, and an open centre.
  2. On a mature tree, remove dead wood, water shoots and crossing or rubbing branches, and keep the crown open, so the leaves dry quickly after rain.
  3. Don’t shorten the short shoots: the flowers and fruit form at their tips. If the crown is too dense, rather remove a whole branch, back to where it starts.
  4. Quince often produces suckers at the foot of the trunk: remove them, as low as possible.
  5. If you suspect fireblight, disinfect your secateurs after every cut, and get rid of the diseased branches, not on the compost heap or the dead hedge.
  6. Saw a thicker branch off just outside the branch collar, without leaving a stub, and a heavy branch in two stages, so the bark does not tear.

How much to cut, and how often?

  • Lightly: a few branches each winter, and never more than about a fifth of the crown at once.
  • A mature quince that crops well sometimes only needs pruning every two or three years.
  • Open up a neglected, dense tree over two or three winters: each time a few of the worst branches, rather than everything at once.

What does it mean for wildlife?

  • Winter pruning falls outside the nesting season (15 March–15 August): so you won’t disturb any breeding birds. In spring, blackbirds and chaffinches sometimes nest in the twisting crown.
  • In May the tree is covered in large, pale pink flowers, visited by honeybees, bumblebees and wild bees. Quince is self-fertile, but with plenty of insects the fruit sets better.
  • In autumn, fallen, bruised fruit attracts blackbirds, thrushes and butterflies such as the red admiral. Do clear up anything rotten before winter, though.
  • Healthy prunings can go on a dead hedge or a brush pile: a shelter for hedgehogs, wrens and insects.

Common mistakes

  • Shortening all the shoots every winter, so the flowers and fruit disappear.
  • Pruning in frost, so branches break and split.
  • Composting branches with fireblight, or not disinfecting the secateurs.
  • Leaving mummies hanging in the tree, so brown rot comes back the following year.
  • Leaving a stub or sawing flush with the trunk, instead of just outside the branch collar.

Caution: Don’t prune in frost, and disinfect your secateurs if you suspect fireblight.

Nearby: related pruning guides

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Plant profile: Quince tree · Pruning calendar and basic rules

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