Alpine lady’s mantle

Alpine lady’s mantle: how do you recognise it?

Habit

A low, creeping mat 10–15 cm high and up to 40 cm wide, on creeping rhizomes that become woody.

Leaves

Small and hand-shaped, 2–4 cm, cut almost to the base into 5–7 lobes; dark green above, silvery and hairy beneath.

Colour

The silver of the underside shows over the leaf edge, so each leaf looks edged in silver.

Flowers

Tiny yellow-green flowers without petals, in loose clusters just above the leaves, from June to August.

Roots

Creeping rhizomes that root as they go; the plant spreads steadily without becoming invasive.

Flowering: June–August · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: March and August

Why grow it?

• Fine, silver-edged leaves that stay attractive from spring to autumn.
• Slowly forms a dense, low mat that keeps weeds down.
• Tolerates poor soil and dry spells, as long as the soil drains well.
• Ideal in a rock garden, between paving, on a low wall or at the front of a border.
• Fully hardy and seldom troubled by disease.

Alpine lady’s mantle: where does it grow best?

• Sun or partial shade; an open, light spot is ideal.
• Sandy or loamy soil that drains well; acid, neutral or chalky are all fine.
• Dry rather than wet: it dislikes wet feet in winter.
• Plant 30–35 cm apart, about 9–11 plants per m², for a closed mat.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.15 m tall, 0.4 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -35 °C)

Goes well with

• Houseleek: Another plant for dry, stony spots, with neat rosettes beside the fine leaves.
• Thyme: Low, fragrant cushions that flower in summer and attract bees.
• Garden pink: Grey-blue leaves and pink flowers that look lovely beside the silver.
• Stonecrop: Low and drought-tolerant, flowering in summer and late summer.

Alpine lady’s mantle: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and September–October.

1. Plant in March–April or September–October.
2. On heavy soil, work coarse sand or fine gravel into the top layer so water drains away freely.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot, not deeper, or the crown may rot.
4. Leave 30–35 cm between plants.
5. Water in well and keep the soil slightly moist for the first few weeks.
6. Spread a thin layer of fine gravel around the plant to keep the leaves dry and clean.

Care

Watering

Rarely needed once established; only in long summer droughts.

Feeding

Not needed. On soil that is too rich it grows looser and less compact.

Weeding

Keep the mat free of grass and weeds for the first two years, until it has closed up.

Deadheading

Cut off the flower clusters after flowering: the plant stays tidier and self-seeds less.

Tidying

In March, pull old brown leaves out of the mat.

Tip: Spread a thin layer of gravel around the plant: it keeps the crown dry, prevents rot and shows off the silver leaves.

Alpine lady’s mantle: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March and August.

When: No real pruning is needed. Cut off the spent flower stems in August and clear the old leaves in March.

How:

• After flowering, cut the flower stems just above the leaves.
• If the mat looks untidy, trim it lightly after flowering; fresh leaves soon follow.
• In March, comb the dead leaves out of the mat with your fingers or a hand rake.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In March–April or September: cut rooted pieces from the edge of the mat and replant them at once.

Seed

Sow in autumn in a tray and leave it outdoors over winter: the cold helps the seed germinate. Self-sown seedlings can also be moved.

Alpine lady’s mantle: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −35 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −35 °C: no protection needed.
• Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: make sure drainage is good.
• Remove fallen tree leaves from the mat, or it may rot underneath them.
• In a pot or trough: use a free-draining mix and stand the pot on pot feet.

Diseases and pests

• Rot: The crown turns brown and mushy on wet, heavy soil. Move the plant to a drier spot and mix gravel into the soil.
• Weeds in the mat: Grasses and weeds easily grow between the stems. Weed regularly, especially in the first two years.
• Bare centre: Older mats go bare in the middle. Divide them and replant the young pieces from the edge.
• Scorched leaves: In a hot, dry summer the leaves may turn brown. Give a few thorough soakings; the plant usually recovers quickly.

Through the year

• March: Pull old leaves out of the mat. Plant or divide.
• April: Planting. Weeding.
• May: New leaves. Remove weeds from the mat.
• June: Flowering begins.
• July: In flower. Water only in long dry spells.
• August: Cut off spent flower stems.
• September: Divide and plant.
• October: Planting. Clear fallen leaves from the mat.
• November: Clear fallen leaves from the mat.

Did you know?

• Lady’s mantles set seed without pollination: the seedlings are clones of the mother plant.
• The name Alchemilla refers to the alchemists, who according to tradition collected the drops on the leaves.
• The slightly larger Alchemilla conjuncta is often sold under the name alpine lady’s mantle.