Pheasant's tail grass (Anemanthele lessoniana)

Photo: Photo by Flickr user hortulus; heavily cropped by Hesperian, so don't blame hortulus for the poor fr, CC BY 2.0 · source

Ornamental grass · Poaceae

Pheasant's tail grass

Anemanthele lessoniana

In other languages: Anemanthele lessoniana (Nederlands) · Anemanthele lessoniana (Français)

Pheasant’s tail grass (Anemanthele lessoniana) is an evergreen ornamental grass found in the wild only in New Zealand, where it grows in open woodland and along forest edges. It forms a loose, gracefully arching clump of narrow leaves, about 80 cm tall and 1 m wide. The foliage is green with a bronze sheen in summer and turns orange, copper and red in autumn and winter. From July to September, airy reddish-brown flower panicles hang over and between the leaves and move in the slightest breeze. It is still often sold under its old name, Stipa arundinacea.

Caution: In a favourable spot it self-seeds freely. Weed out unwanted seedlings while they are small or cut off the panicles before the seed ripens.

  • Light

    Sun or partial shade

    preferably some sun

  • Moisture

    Normal

    no wet feet

  • Legal basis

    Sand, loam or clay

    any pH

  • Hardiness

    down to -12 °C

    protect in harsh winters

  • Size

    0.8 m

    tall, 1 m wide

  • Flowering

    July–September

Key facts
Pruning monthsMarch–April
Height0.8 m
Native to BelgiumNo, planted
Poisonous to people and petsNot known to be poisonous
FloweringJuly–September

Identify

Pheasant's tail grass: how do you recognise it?

Habit
Loose, arching clump about 80 cm tall and 1 m wide; the leaves curve outwards like a fountain.
Leaves
Narrow, linear and glossy; green with bronze tints in summer, orange, copper and red in autumn and winter, especially in sun.
Flowers
Airy, finely branched panicles from July to September, reddish brown to purplish, hanging over the foliage.
Seed
Small seeds that ripen in autumn; in a suitable spot it self-seeds readily.
Roots
A fibrous clump without runners: it does not spread by rhizomes.

Flowering: July–September · Plants: April–May · Pruning: March–April

In your garden

Why grow it?

  • Evergreen: a graceful clump all year round, with its best colours in autumn and winter.
  • The orange and coppery winter foliage brings warmth to the garden when most perennials have disappeared.
  • The airy, arching panicles add movement to a border from July into autumn.
  • Grows in sun or partial shade, on sand, loam or clay: an easy, versatile plant.
  • Little work: no cutting back, just comb out the dead leaves now and then.
  • Looks good in a large pot, on a bank or as a loose group between shrubs.

Pheasant's tail grass: where does it grow best?

  • Sun or partial shade; in sun the leaves colour the brightest orange, in partial shade they stay green for longer.
  • Ordinary, well-drained garden soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky.
  • Normally moist: not too dry in summer, but no wet feet in winter.
  • A sheltered spot helps it through hard winters; avoid a cold, wet hollow.
  • Allow 0.8–1 m between plants, as the clump becomes wider than it is tall.
Light
Sun and partial shade
Soil type
Sand, loam or clay
Acidity
Not fussy
Moisture
Normal
Size
0.8 m tall, 1 m wide
Hardiness
Half hardy (to -12 °C): protect it in harsh winters

Goes well with

  • Sneezeweed: Orange and red late-summer flowers that echo the colour of the foliage.
  • Ice plant: Broad, fleshy leaves and pink flower heads in autumn, a contrast with the fine grass.
  • Coral bells: Dark or lime-green foliage at its feet, also in partial shade.
  • Spurge: Evergreen kinds give winter structure together with the grass.
  • Michaelmas daisy: Purple and blue flowers beside the foliage as it turns orange in October.

Maintenance

Pheasant's tail grass: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

  1. Plant in April or May, when the soil has warmed up, so it can root well before winter.
  2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and loosen the bottom.
  3. In heavy clay, work in some coarse sand or gravel and compost, so that water can drain away in winter.
  4. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm the soil well; leave 0.8–1 m between plants.
  5. Water generously straight away, then weekly in dry spells during the first summer.

Care

Watering
After the first summer it needs little; water only in long dry spells. Water plants in pots regularly.
Feeding
Not needed in ordinary garden soil. In a pot, a little organic fertiliser or compost in April.
Tidying
In March–April, comb the dead leaves out of the clump with your fingers (wear gloves) or a small rake.
Spent panicles
Leave them: they stay attractive for a long time. Remove them in spring along with the dead leaves.
Seedlings
It self-seeds; keep the seedlings you want and weed out the rest while they are small.

Tip: Plant it in sun for the best orange winter colour, and never cut it back: in spring, just comb out the dead leaves.

Pheasant's tail grass: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March–April.

When: It is not cut back. In March–April, simply comb the dead leaves out of the clump.

How:

  • Run gloved hands or a small rake through the clump to remove loose, dead leaves.
  • Cut off old, spent panicles once they no longer look good.
  • Never cut an evergreen grass down hard: it recovers poorly and may even die.

Caution: The orange winter foliage is not dead: leave it, as it is the main ornamental feature of the plant.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seedlings
The easiest way: in spring, lift young seedlings with a little soil and pot them up or move them to their new spot.
Seed
Sow ripe seed in spring in pots of seed compost; barely cover it and keep it moist.
Division
In April–May, cut an older clump into pieces with a spade; water the divisions well until they grow away.

Pheasant's tail grass: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −12 °C: protect in harsh winters.

  • Hardy to about −12 °C: no problem in most Belgian winters, but it can be damaged in a severe one.
  • Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: make sure the soil drains well.
  • Leave the clump and the panicles standing; they protect the heart of the plant and look lovely with frost on them.
  • In a pot: in hard frost move it against a wall and wrap the pot in hessian or bubble wrap.

Diseases and pests

  • Root rot: The clump turns brown and limp after a wet winter. Plant in free-draining soil and improve heavy clay with gravel.
  • Brown, dead leaves: Normal for an evergreen grass. Comb them out in spring; do not cut the plant down.
  • Too many seedlings: In a favourable spot it self-seeds freely. Weed out seedlings while young or cut off the panicles before the seed ripens.
  • Frost damage: Lots of brown foliage after a hard winter. Wait until May: it often regrows from the centre.

Through the year

  • January: Orange and red winter colour. Protect pots in hard frost.
  • February: Leave standing. Do not prune.
  • March: Comb out dead leaves. Look for seedlings.
  • April: Plant or divide. Remove the last dead leaves.
  • May: Plant. Water after planting.
  • July: First panicles. Water in long dry spells.
  • August: Flowering. Water pots regularly.
  • September: Flowering. The seed ripens.
  • October: The foliage starts to turn orange.
  • December: Winter colour. Leave the clump standing.

You and this species

Did you know?

  • Anemanthele is the only species in its genus. The name comes from the Greek anemos (wind) and anthele (plume).
  • It grows wild only in New Zealand and was long classed with the feather grasses (Stipa).
  • The name pheasant’s tail grass refers to the arching, orange-brown leaves, which recall the tail feathers of a pheasant.

Garden plants · All species

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