Japanese angelica tree

Japanese angelica tree: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Multi-stemmed shrub or small tree 3–5 m tall and about 3 m across, with sparsely branched stems.

Stem

Covered in sharp prickles, also on the leaf stalks and the midrib of the leaf.

Leaves

Twice pinnate, up to more than 1 m long, held like a parasol at the stem tips; yellow, orange or purplish red in autumn.

Flower

Large sprays of tiny cream-white flowers in rounded umbels, in August–September.

Fruit

Small black berries in autumn.

Roots

Widely spreading, with many suckers, especially when the roots are damaged.

Flowering: August–September · Plants: March–April and October–November · Pruning: March

Why grow it?

• An exotic, tropical-looking outline with huge leaves, yet fully hardy.
• Late in summer, in August–September, large sprays of white flowers full of bees.
• Small black berries in autumn, which are eaten by birds.
• Fine autumn colour from yellow to purplish red.
• In winter, a graphic picture of bare, spiny stems.

Japanese angelica tree: where does it grow best?

• Sun to partial shade; a sheltered spot stops the large leaves from tearing in the wind.
• Fertile, free-draining sandy, loamy or clay soil, acid to chalky.
• Normal moisture, not too wet in winter.
• Choose a spot where suckers do no harm: not in the middle of a border and not against the boundary with the neighbours.
• Allow 3 m width and keep it away from paths and play areas because of the prickles.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

4 m tall, 3 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Japanese forest grass: Golden-green, arching leaves at the base, also in partial shade.
• Hosta: Large leaves beneath the parasol, in the same partial shade.
• Ferns: A green, woodland-style underplanting.
• Barrenwort: A ground cover beneath the shrub that also tolerates dry shade.

Japanese angelica tree: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and October–November.

1. Plant in March–April or October–November.
2. Wear sturdy gloves: the stems are covered in prickles.
3. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in compost.
4. Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot; with a grafted variegated form, keep the graft union above the soil.
5. Keep 2–3 m from other shrubs and paths.
6. Water in well and mulch the base.

Care

Watering

Regularly in dry spells in the first year; after that only in long droughts.

Feeding

Some compost in spring.

Suckers

Remove suckers while they are young. Do not hoe or dig deeply around the shrub: damaged roots produce more suckers.

Variegated forms

Cut out green shoots coming from the rootstock or roots straight away.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould keeps the soil moist and the weeds down, so there is no need to hoe.

Tip: Do not hoe or dig around the angelica tree: every damaged root can produce a new sucker. Spread a thick mulch instead, or plant a ground cover at its feet.

Japanese angelica tree: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March.

When: Little needed. Remove dead wood and unwanted stems in March; remove suckers as often as needed from May to September.

How:

• Saw dead or damaged stems off at the base.
• To keep the shrub lower, saw old stems off at ground level; new ones grow from the base.
• Remove suckers to below ground level.
• On variegated forms: cut green shoots out as low as possible.

Caution: Protect your hands and arms with sturdy gloves and long sleeves: the prickles are sharp.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Root cuttings

In December–February, lay 8–10 cm pieces of root in a pot of gritty compost; they sprout in spring. Variegated forms give green-leaved plants this way.

Suckers

In spring or autumn, detach a rooted sucker with a spade and replant it.

Seed

In autumn, clean the seed from ripe berries and sow it in a tray outdoors; germination is slow.

Japanese angelica tree: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Very hardy, to −30 °C: no protection is needed in Belgium.
• Young shoots can be damaged by late night frost; they usually sprout again.
• In winter only the bare, spiny stems remain: a strong graphic picture.

Diseases and pests

• Suckers: New stems appear metres from the shrub. Remove them young, do not dig deeply around the plant and fit a root barrier if needed.
• Reversion: Green shoots appear on variegated forms. Cut them out straight away, or they will take over.
• Wind damage: Torn or snapped leaves. Choose a sheltered spot.
• Frost damage: Black, limp shoots after a late night frost. Cut them off; the plant will sprout again.

Through the year

• January: Take root cuttings.
• February: Take root cuttings.
• March: Saw out dead wood and old stems. Planting.
• April: Planting. Add compost. The leaves unfurl.
• May: Remove suckers. Cut out green shoots on variegated forms.
• June: Remove suckers.
• July: Water during prolonged drought.
• August: Flowering begins; bees visit.
• September: Flowering and first black berries.
• October: Autumn colour. Planting.
• November: Planting. The leaves fall.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• In Japan the young shoots are picked in spring and eaten as tempura; they are called tara-no-me.
• It is related to ivy: both belong to the ivy family, Araliaceae, with flowers in rounded umbels.
• The variegated forms are usually grafted, because from seed or root cuttings they come back green-leaved.