Heartleaf bergenia

Heartleaf bergenia: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Low, broad clumps about 45 cm tall and 60 cm wide, spreading slowly by thick, creeping rhizomes.

Leaves

Rounded to heart-shaped, up to 30 cm long, leathery and glossy green; red to purplish brown in winter.

Flowers

Clusters of small bell-shaped flowers on thick, reddish stems, from March to May.

Colour

Pink to purplish pink; a deeper magenta-pink in ‘Purpurea’.

Roots

Thick, fleshy rhizomes that creep along the surface and root as they go.

Flowering: March–May · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: March and June

Why grow it?

• Evergreen: the large, glossy leaves give the border structure all year round, winter included.
• In the cold months the foliage turns red to purplish brown, best in sun and on poor soil.
• One of the first flowers for bumblebees and bees, from March onwards.
• A strong ground cover that smothers weeds, from full sun to deep shade.
• Once established, it copes with drought, wind and poor soil without complaint.

Heartleaf bergenia: where does it grow best?

• Sun, partial shade or shade: it grows almost anywhere, but flowers and colours best with some sun.
• Any soil will do, from sand to clay, whether acid, neutral or chalky.
• Dry to average soil; avoid spots where water stands in winter.
• Allow 40–50 cm between plants, or 4–5 plants per m² as ground cover.

Light

Sun, partial shade and shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.45 m tall, 0.6 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -35 °C)

Goes well with

• Barrenwort: Also evergreen and tough in dry shade, with finer leaves beside the big ones.
• Ferns: Light, finely cut foliage in contrast with the large, round leaves.
• Snowdrop: Flowers early among the evergreen leaves.
• Hosta: Takes over in summer in the shady border.
• Ornamental grasses: Fine, swaying stems beside the sturdy leaves, in a sunny spot.

Heartleaf bergenia: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and September–October.

1. Plant in March–April or in September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor too wet.
2. Loosen the soil and remove perennial weeds such as couch grass and ground elder: weeding between the clumps is hard later on.
3. Dig a hole slightly wider than the pot and mix in some compost.
4. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot; the rhizome may sit just at the surface.
5. Water in well straight away and keep the soil lightly moist for the first few weeks.
6. Spread a thin layer of leaf mould or wood chips between the young plants until they knit together.

Care

Watering

In the first year during dry spells. After that only in long, hot droughts, especially in a sunny spot.

Feeding

A thin layer of compost in spring is enough. Too much fertiliser gives soft leaves and less winter colour.

Old leaves

In March, remove brown, torn or frost-damaged leaves at the base.

Spent flowers

Cut the flower stems as low as possible after flowering to keep the clump tidy.

Rejuvenating

When clumps go bare in the centre after 4–5 years, lift them, divide them and replant the young pieces.

Tip: For bright winter colour, plant it in sun on poor soil and feed sparingly: in rich soil and shade the leaves stay greener.

Heartleaf bergenia: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March and June.

When: No real pruning is needed. In March, clear away old leaves, and in June, cut off the spent flower stems.

How:

• Cut or pull away brown, torn and damaged leaves at the base to make room for the new foliage.
• Cut spent flower stems as low as possible.
• Long, bare rhizomes can be shortened; the pieces you cut off can be used as cuttings.

Caution: Do not cut the foliage back in autumn: it protects the plant and is at its finest in winter.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

After flowering or in September: lift a clump, cut the rhizome into pieces, each with a rosette and its own roots, and replant them.

Rhizome cuttings

In autumn or winter: cut 5 cm pieces of rhizome with a dormant bud, press them halfway into moist cutting compost and keep them cool and light. They sprout in spring.

Heartleaf bergenia: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −35 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −35 °C: in Belgium it never needs protection.
• The leaves stay all winter and turn red in the cold.
• A late frost can brown the early flowers, but the plant itself is not harmed.
• In a pot it overwinters outdoors without trouble, as long as water drains away freely.

Diseases and pests

• Vine weevil: Half-moon notches in the leaf edges; the white grubs eat the roots. Apply nematodes against the grubs in spring or late summer and pick off the adult beetles at night.
• Slugs and snails: Holes in young leaves in spring. Pick them off in the evening or lay down a plank as a trap.
• Leaf spot: Brown spots on the leaves, mainly in wet soil and damp weather. Remove affected leaves and give the planting more air.
• Rhizome rot: In permanently wet soil the rhizomes turn soft and rot. Cut away rotten parts and replant in a drier spot.
• Few flowers: Usually too much shade or too much fertiliser. Give more light and feed less.

Through the year

• February: The flower buds are already visible among the leaves. Watch out for slugs.
• March: Flowering begins. Remove old and damaged leaves. Apply compost.
• April: Full flower. Planting.
• May: Last flowers. Apply nematodes against vine weevil grubs.
• June: Cut off spent flower stems. Divide.
• July: Water during long dry spells.
• September: Planting and dividing.
• October: Planting. The leaves start to turn red.
• December: Red winter foliage. Do not prune.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• It is also called ‘pigsqueak’: rub a leaf between your thumb and fingers and it makes a squeaking sound.
• The genus is named after the German physician and botanist Karl August von Bergen, who lived in the 18th century.
• Because of its large, round leaves it is also known in Britain as ‘elephant’s ears’.