Giant bellflower

Giant bellflower: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Robust clump 1–1.2 m tall and about 60 cm wide, with sturdy, upright and usually unbranched stems.

Leaves

Large, oval to oblong, toothed and softly hairy; largest at the base, smaller and stalkless higher up.

Flowers

Bells 4–5 cm long with five curled-back lobes; blue-violet or white, single or in pairs in the leaf axils along the upper half of the stem. In June and July.

Fruit

Nodding capsules holding many fine seeds.

Roots

Thick, fleshy roots; the clump widens over the years but does not run.

Flowering: June–July · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: July–August

Why grow it?

• One of the largest and finest bellflowers, for partial and full shade.
• Adds height and structure at the back of a shady border or along a woodland edge.
• Bumblebees crawl right inside the large bells; solitary bees visit the flowers too.
• Tough, hardy and rarely troubled by disease.
• Self-seeds and so forms a natural group within a few years.

Giant bellflower: where does it grow best?

• Partial shade or light shade under trees; in full sun it dries out too quickly.
• Humus-rich loam or clay, acid to chalky.
• Moderately moist: soil that holds moisture but does not stay waterlogged.
• At the back of the border or between shrubs, 50–60 cm apart.
• Ideally sheltered from strong wind, so the tall stems do not blow over.

Light

Partial shade and shade

Soil type

Loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

1.2 m tall, 0.6 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -35 °C)

Goes well with

• Foxglove: Tall spikes in the same light shade, in June.
• Hosta: Large leaves at the foot of the tall stems.
• Ferns: Fresh green foliage that shows off the blue-violet bells.
• Bugbane: White candles in late summer, in the same shady border.
• Wood anemone: A spring flower that fills the spot before the bellflower comes up.

Giant bellflower: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and September–October.

1. Plant in March–April or in September–October.
2. Dig a generous hole and mix in a few spadefuls of compost or leaf mould.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm the soil well.
4. Keep 50–60 cm between plants.
5. Water well straight away and keep the soil moist during dry spells in the first year.
6. Mulch with leaf mould to keep the soil cool and moist.

Care

Water

Water during long dry spells, especially in the first year and in a lighter spot.

Feeding

A layer of compost or leaf mould in March; nothing more is needed.

Support

In an open spot or rich soil the stems may fall over; put a plant support or twiggy sticks around the clump in May.

Deadheading

Cut the stems back after flowering if you do not want seedlings.

Seedlings

It self-seeds easily. Weed out surplus seedlings or move them while young.

Tip: Plant it at the back of a shady border, between shrubs or under trees, and cut the stems back after flowering if you do not want seedlings everywhere.

Giant bellflower: when to prune it?

Pruning months: July–August.

When: After flowering, in July–August, cut the spent stems back to the leaves at the base.

How:

• Cut spent stems to just above the basal leaves; a few late flowers sometimes follow.
• Leave one or two stems if you want to collect seed or have seedlings.
• In autumn or March, clear away the last dead leaves.

Caution: If you let every stem set seed, expect plenty of seedlings the following year.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In March–April or September, lift an older clump and divide it with a sharp spade into pieces, each with roots and buds.

Seed

Sow fresh seed in autumn or spring in a pot outdoors; do not cover the fine seed. Or simply let it self-seed and move the seedlings.

Giant bellflower: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −35 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −35 °C: no protection needed.
• The top growth dies back and the plant regrows from the roots in spring.
• It can also grow in a large pot, as long as the pot is sheltered in winter and the compost never dries out.

Diseases and pests

• Slugs and snails: They eat the young shoots in spring. Pick them off in the evening and protect young plants.
• Falling stems: Mostly in rich soil or a windy spot. Support put in place in May and a sheltered position help.
• Rust: Orange pustules on the undersides of the leaves. Remove affected leaves and give the plants space for air.
• Drying out: Drooping, scorched leaves in a dry summer. Water and choose a shadier spot.

Through the year

• March: Add compost. Plant or divide.
• April: Plant. Watch for slugs.
• May: Put supports in place in an open spot.
• June: Flowering begins. Bumblebees in the bells.
• July: Full flower. Cut back spent stems.
• August: Cut back the last stems or let seed ripen. Water in dry spells.
• September: Plant or divide. Sow in a pot.
• October: Plant. Clear dead leaves.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• Latifolia means ‘broad-leaved’, after its large leaves.
• In Britain it grows wild in damp deciduous woodland, mainly in northern England and Scotland.
• The bells are so large that bumblebees disappear inside them completely; in the rain, small bees sometimes shelter in them.