Canterbury bells

Canterbury bells: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Biennial: a flat rosette in the first year, upright, branched flower stems 60–80 cm tall and 30 cm wide in the second.

Leaves

Elongated, rough, hairy and slightly wavy, in a rosette; smaller leaves along the stem.

Flowers

Large, inflated bells 4–5 cm long, upright or angled on the stem, in June and July.

Colour

Blue, violet, lilac, pink or white.

Lifespan

Flowers once, in its second year, and dies after setting seed.

Flowering: June–July · Sowing: May–June · Plants: September–October

Why grow it?

• A generous display of large bells in June and July, a real eye-catcher in a cottage garden or border.
• Bumblebees and other bees crawl right into the bells for nectar and pollen.
• A fine, sturdy cut flower that lasts well in the vase.
• Easy to raise from seed yourself: lots of plants for little money.
• Soft colours that go well with roses and other early summer flowers.

Canterbury bells: where does it grow best?

• Sun to partial shade; it flowers most freely in full sun, while colours stay fresher in partial shade.
• Ordinary, free-draining garden soil: sand, loam or clay, neutral to chalky.
• Moist: the rosette does not tolerate wet feet in winter.
• A sheltered spot stops the heavy stems from blowing over. Allow about 30 cm between plants.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Normal

Size

0.8 m tall, 0.3 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -20 °C)

Goes well with

• Rose: Flowers at the same time in June; the bells look lovely with old roses.
• Foxglove: Also biennial, with tall flower spikes at the same time.
• Hollyhock: A tall, biennial cottage-garden plant for the back of the border.
• Lady’s mantle: A soft, greenish-yellow edge at the front of the border.
• Delphinium: Tall blue spikes that enhance the colours of the bells.

Canterbury bells: when and how to plant it?

Plant in September–October.

1. Sow outdoors in May or June in a seed tray or seedbed. Scatter the fine seed thinly and just press it in, without really covering it.
2. Keep the soil moist; the seedlings come up after 2–3 weeks.
3. Prick out the seedlings into individual pots once they are big enough to handle, and grow them on through the summer.
4. Plant the young rosettes in their flowering position in September or October, about 30 cm apart and at the same depth as in the pot.
5. Firm the soil and water straight away.

Care

Watering

Water young plants in pots and newly planted rosettes regularly. Flowering plants only need water in prolonged drought.

Feeding

In spring of the flowering year, a handful of compost around the rosette. Nothing more is needed.

Staking

In April or May, put canes or a plant support by the stems: after rain they easily flop over.

Spent flowers

Snip off faded bells, so the buds below still open and it flowers for longer.

After flowering

Let a few stems set seed if you want it to self-seed; then pull up the dead plant.

Tip: Sow in May–June, prick out into pots and plant in the flowering position in September. Support the tall stems; the plant dies after flowering.

Canterbury bells: when to prune it?

When: Canterbury bells are not pruned. In June and July you remove faded bells, and after flowering you clear away the dead plant.

How:

• Snip off faded bells one by one, close to the stem.
• Once a whole stem has finished, cut it back to just above a side shoot with buds.
• Leave a few stems if you want to collect seed or let it self-seed.

Caution: Because it is biennial, you need to sow every year if you want flowers every year.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

Sow outdoors in May–June in a seed tray or seedbed. Collect your own seed in August from the dry seed capsules and store it dry until the following spring.

Self-seeding

In an open spot it sometimes self-seeds. Move the young rosettes in September to where you want them.

Canterbury bells: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −20 °C.

• The rosettes are hardy, to about −20 °C: in Belgium they survive the winter without protection.
• Heavy, wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: choose a well-drained spot.
• Protect the rosettes from slugs in winter and early spring.
• In a pot: stand it against a wall in winter so the compost does not become waterlogged.

Diseases and pests

• Slugs: Take large bites out of the rosettes in autumn, winter and spring. Pick them off in the evening and keep the surroundings open.
• Flopping: Heavy stems full of bells fall over after rain or wind. Put in a plant support in good time.
• Rot: In wet, heavy soil the rosette rots away in winter. Plant in a well-drained spot and mix in coarse grit if needed.
• Rust: Orange pustules under the leaves. Remove affected leaves and leave enough space between plants.

Through the year

• March: The rosettes start growing again. Add compost. Watch out for slugs.
• April: Put in plant supports for the flowering plants.
• May: Sow in a seed tray or seedbed. First buds on the flowering plants.
• June: Flowering. Snip off faded bells. You can still sow.
• July: Flowering. Cut flowers for the vase. Prick out seedlings.
• August: Collect seed. Clear away dead plants. Water young plants.
• September: Plant young rosettes in their flowering position.
• October: Last planting time. Remove slugs.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• Campanula means ‘little bell’ in Latin and refers to the shape of the flowers.
• According to tradition, the name ‘Canterbury bells’ refers to the bells on the horses of pilgrims travelling to Canterbury.
• Some wild bees, such as certain scissor bees, collect pollen only from bellflowers.