Leatherleaf sedge

Leatherleaf sedge: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Upright clump about 60 cm tall and 50 cm wide; the leaf tips arch over.

Leaves

Narrow and fine, copper-brown to reddish brown, often with curled tips; evergreen in that colour.

Flowers

Inconspicuous brown spikes in June and July, among the leaves.

Stem

Three-sided, as in most sedges.

Roots

A fibrous clump without runners; it sometimes self-seeds a little.

Flowering: June–July · Plants: March–May · Pruning: March–April

Why grow it?

• Colour in every season: copper-brown foliage that lasts through winter.
• An upright shape that gives structure among rounded, green plants.
• A fine contrast with silver-grey, blue or lime-green foliage and with orange flowers.
• Suitable for a pot on the patio, a gravel garden or the front of a border.
• Tolerates drought once established.
• Little work: just comb out old leaves in spring.

Leatherleaf sedge: where does it grow best?

• Sun or partial shade; in sun the foliage colours most warmly.
• Light, free-draining soil: sand or loam, acid to chalky.
• Dry to normally moist; no wet feet in winter.
• A sheltered spot helps it through hard winters.
• Allow 40–50 cm between plants.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.6 m tall, 0.5 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -15 °C)

Goes well with

• Blue fescue: Blue-grey tufts beside the copper-brown foliage.
• Spurge: Lime-green flowers and evergreen leaves as a fresh contrast.
• Coral bells: Lime-green or silver kinds light up beside the brown sedge.
• Lavender: Grey foliage and purple flowers in the same dry, sunny spot.

Leatherleaf sedge: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–May.

1. Plant in March, April or May, so that it is well rooted before winter.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball; in heavy soil, mix in some gravel or coarse sand.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm the soil.
4. Leave 40–50 cm between plants, or grow it on its own in a pot at least 30 cm across.
5. Water straight away and during dry spells in the first summer.
6. Spread gravel around the base if you like: it sets off the brown foliage and keeps the clump dry.

Care

Watering

Rarely needed after the first summer; in a pot, water when the top few centimetres are dry.

Feeding

Not needed in the garden. In a pot, a little organic fertiliser in April.

Tidying

In March–April, comb out the dead leaves with gloved hands.

Rejuvenating

After a few years the centre of the clump looks less attractive; divide it or replace it with a seedling.

Repotting

Every two or three years in spring, into a slightly larger pot with fresh compost.

Tip: Plant it next to silver-grey or lime-green foliage: side by side, both colours show up far better than on their own.

Leatherleaf sedge: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March–April.

When: It is not cut back. In March–April, simply comb out the old, dead leaves.

How:

• Run gloved hands or a small rake through the clump to remove loose, dead leaves.
• Cut off only leaves that are truly withered, at the base.
• Never cut the clump down: an evergreen sedge recovers poorly.

Caution: The brown foliage is not dead; it is its natural colour. Wear gloves when combing it out: the leaf edges can be rough.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In April–May, lift a clump and split it into a few pieces with roots; replant straight away and water.

Seed

Sow ripe seed in spring in pots and keep it moist; the seedlings develop the same brown colour.

Seedlings

It sometimes self-seeds; in spring, lift young seedlings with a little soil and move them.

Leatherleaf sedge: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −15 °C: protect young plants.

• Hardy to about −15 °C: no problem in most Belgian winters.
• Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost; make sure the soil drains freely.
• Leave the clump standing: the copper-brown foliage is an asset in the winter garden.
• In a pot: in hard frost move it against a wall and wrap the pot.

Diseases and pests

• Root rot: The clump goes limp and rots at the base after a wet winter. Plant in free-draining soil and raise pots on feet.
• Looks dead: The brown foliage is often mistaken for dead. Look at the base: live leaves are supple and glossy.
• Bare centre: Old clumps go bare in the middle. Divide them or replace them with seedlings.
• Dull colour: In too much shade the foliage loses its warm tones. Give it a sunnier spot.

Through the year

• January: Copper-brown winter foliage. Protect pots in hard frost.
• March: Comb out dead leaves.
• April: Plant or divide. Remove the last dead leaves.
• May: Plant. Repot.
• June: Inconspicuous flowers. Water pots.
• July: Water in long dry spells.
• September: Look for self-sown seedlings.
• November: Leave standing. Raise pots on feet.
• December: Colour in the winter garden.

Did you know?

• Many New Zealand sedges naturally have brown, copper or bronze foliage; it is not a sign of disease.
• Sedges are not true grasses: you can usually recognise them by their three-sided stems.
• The species is named after John Buchanan, a Scottish botanist who studied the flora of New Zealand in the 19th century.