
Photo: Schorle, CC BY-SA 4.0 · source
Shrub · Hydrangeaceae
Mountain hydrangea
Hydrangea serrata
In other languages: Berghortensia (Nederlands) · Hortensia (Français)
The mountain hydrangea grows wild in the mountain woods of Japan and Korea. It is a compact shrub of about 1–1.5 m with finer leaves than the common mophead hydrangea and graceful, flat lacecap flowers. Small fertile flowers sit in the centre, ringed by large, showy sterile florets. On acid soil the blue forms turn a clear blue, on more alkaline soil they turn pink. It is hardier than the mophead hydrangea and, thanks to its modest size, also suits a small garden. Well-known cultivars include ‘Bluebird’, ‘Preziosa’ and ‘Tiara’.
Light
Partial shade or shade
tolerates little sun
Moisture
Normal to wet
must not dry out
Legal basis
Sand, loam or peat
acid to neutral
Hardiness
Fully hardy
down to -20 °C
Size
1 m
tall, 1 m wide
Flowering
June–September
| Pruning months | March |
|---|---|
| Height | 1 m |
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Good for bees, butterflies and birds | Yes, for bees |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Not known to be poisonous |
| Flowering | June–September |
Identify
Mountain hydrangea: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Compact, rounded shrub 1–1.5 m tall and as wide, with thin, upright stems.
- Leaves
- Narrowly oval and pointed, 5–15 cm, with a finely toothed edge; thinner and more matt than those of the mophead hydrangea.
- Flowers
- Flat lacecaps of 6–12 cm: small fertile flowers in the centre and a ring of large showy florets.
- Colour
- Blue on acid soil, pink on neutral to chalky soil. There are also white cultivars, which stay white.
- Roots
- Shallow and finely branched: it dries out quickly and likes a cool, moist root run.
Flowering: June–September · Plants: March–April and October–November · Pruning: March
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Flowers from June into September, even in partial shade.
- Finer and more graceful than the mophead hydrangea, and better able to cope with frost.
- Compact: fits a small garden, a narrow border or a large pot.
- The small fertile flowers in the centre of the lacecaps attract bees.
- In many cultivars the flower heads, and sometimes the leaves, colour beautifully red or purple in autumn.
Mountain hydrangea: where does it grow best?
- Partial or light shade, ideally with morning sun and shade in the afternoon.
- Humus-rich, moisture-retentive soil: sandy, loamy or peaty, acid to neutral.
- Rather moist than dry: it does well in damp soil, as long as water does not stand.
- A sheltered spot protects the flower buds from late spring frosts.
- Allow 1–1.2 m per plant; in a group, 80–100 cm apart.
- Light
- Partial shade and shade
- Soil type
- Sand, loam or peat
- Acidity
- Acid or neutral
- Moisture
- Normal or wet
- Size
- 1 m tall, 1 m wide
- Hardiness
- Hardy (to -20 °C)
Goes well with
- Hosta: Large, calm leaves at its feet, in the same partial shade.
- Ferns: Fresh green underplanting that likes the same moist, acid soil.
- Japanese maple: A graceful small tree for light shade above, with fine autumn colour.
- Sweet woodruff: A white-flowering ground cover in spring, before the hydrangea blooms.
- Japanese forest grass: Yellow, arching blades as a contrast in the shade.
Maintenance
Mountain hydrangea: when and how to plant it?
Plant in March–April and October–November.
- Plant in March–April or October–November, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in leaf mould or peat-free ericaceous compost.
- Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot and firm the soil well.
- Water in thoroughly straight away, even if it is raining.
- Spread a mulch of leaf mould, bark or pine needles around the base to keep the soil cool and moist.
Care
- Watering
- Weekly in dry spells in the first year. After that, water generously at the base in dry summers: the leaves soon droop.
- Feeding
- In April, compost or an organic feed for hydrangeas or ericaceous plants. Do not feed after July.
- Colour
- For blue flowers, use rainwater and keep the soil acid; lime turns the flowers pink. White cultivars do not change colour.
- Mulching
- A layer of leaf mould or bark every spring keeps the soil acid, cool and moist.
- Spent flowers
- Leave them on over winter: they protect the flower buds below. Only cut them off in March.
- In a pot
- A pot of at least 40 cm with ericaceous compost; in summer, water almost daily.
Tip: In March, only cut off the spent flower heads, just above the first pair of fat buds. For blue flowers, water with rainwater: hard tap water gradually turns them pink.
Mountain hydrangea: when to prune it?
Pruning months: March.
When: In March, once the hardest frosts are over and the fat buds are easy to see.
How:
- Only cut off the spent flower heads, just above the first pair of fat, healthy buds.
- Remove dead, frosted and very thin stems at the base.
- Every few years, take one or two of the oldest stems out at ground level to keep the shrub young.
- Do not shorten the other stems: this year’s flower buds sit at their tips.
Caution: It flowers mainly on last year’s wood: hard pruning in spring costs you that year’s flowers.
Propagation
- Softwood cuttings
- In June–July: 10 cm cuttings from non-flowering shoots, lower leaves removed, in moist cutting compost under plastic. Roots after 4–6 weeks.
- Layering
- In summer, bend a low stem to the ground, lightly wound the bark and peg it down under some soil. Sever and replant after a year.
Mountain hydrangea: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy to −20 °C.
- Hardy to about −20 °C: in Belgian gardens it simply stays outside.
- Late frosts in April or May can damage the young buds; cover the shrub with fleece for the night.
- Leave the spent flower heads until March: they protect the buds below.
- In a pot: stand it against a wall and wrap the pot in hessian or bubble wrap so the roots do not freeze.
Diseases and pests
- No flowers: Usually pruned too hard or buds killed by late frost. Only remove the old flower heads and protect it against spring frost.
- Yellow leaves with green veins: Chlorosis caused by chalky soil or hard tap water. Use rainwater, mulch with pine needles or bark and use an ericaceous feed.
- Drooping leaves: A sign of drought or too much afternoon sun. Water generously and mulch; move it to a shadier spot if necessary.
- Aphids: On young shoots in spring. Ladybirds usually deal with them; otherwise spray them off with water.
Through the year
- March: Cut off spent flower heads above the first pair of fat buds. Remove dead wood.
- April: Plant or move. Add compost and mulch. Cover during late frosts.
- May: Watch for aphids. Water in dry spells.
- June: Flowering begins. Take softwood cuttings.
- July: Full flower. Water generously in dry spells. No more feeding.
- August: Flowering. Water. Layer a low stem.
- September: Last flowers; the flower heads take on lovely colours.
- October: Plant. Autumn colour in leaves and flower heads.
- November: Plant. Leave the spent flower heads in place.
- December: Dormant. Protect pots from hard frost.
Use
Good for wildlife
- Bees
- Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.
You and this species
Did you know?
- The name serrata means ‘saw-toothed’ and refers to the finely toothed leaf edge.
- Whether the flowers turn blue or pink depends on aluminium in the soil: the plant can only take it up from acid soil, and the flowers then turn blue.
- The large showy florets around the edge of the lacecap are sterile: they lure insects to the small fertile flowers in the centre.