Tibetan tree peony

Tibetan tree peony: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Upright, broad, woody shrub about 2 m tall and wide.

Foliage

Large, deeply cut and fresh green, with a soft, almost fern-like look.

Flowers

Single, cup-shaped, bright yellow flowers more than 10 cm across with golden stamens, in May.

Fruit

Large pods with remarkably big seeds, splitting open in late summer or autumn.

Roots

Deep and fleshy; it dislikes being moved, so choose the right spot straight away.

Flowering: May–June · Plants: September–October

Why grow it?

• Large, bright yellow flowers in May: an impressive sight in late spring.
• Big, fresh, deeply cut foliage that stays beautiful all summer.
• Grows relatively fast for a tree peony and becomes a sturdy, broad shrub.
• Very hardy and low-maintenance once established.
• A rare, special species for the enthusiast, with bees on the flowers.
• No pruning needed: it develops into a nice, loose shape by itself.

Tibetan tree peony: where does it grow best?

• Sun or part shade, preferably without morning sun: after a late frost the shoots then thaw slowly and suffer less.
• Well-drained, humus-rich soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky.
• Normally moist, without wet feet.
• Sheltered from strong wind, which can tear the large leaves.
• Allow 2–2.5 m of space per shrub.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

2 m tall, 2 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -20 °C)

Goes well with

• Cranesbill: Blue and purple flowers that go well with the bright yellow.
• Columbine: Light, airy flowers in the same part shade, with pretty blooms in May.
• Hosta: Broad foliage at the foot, in the same spot.
• Ferns: A fresh, green underplanting beside the cut foliage.

Tibetan tree peony: when and how to plant it?

Plant in September–October.

1. Plant in September–October, while the soil is still warm and not too wet.
2. Dig a generous hole, at least 50 cm wide, and mix in compost and a little sand if the soil is heavy.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in its pot. A grafted plant goes in with the graft union about 10 cm below ground, so that the scion makes its own roots.
4. Leave 2–2.5 m between shrubs.
5. Water thoroughly straight away.
6. Spread a layer of leaf mould or bark around the base, without covering the stems.

Care

Water

In the first two summers, water generously every week in dry weather. After that it is rarely needed.

Feeding

Compost or organic fertiliser in March–April. Do not give too much nitrogen.

Mulching

A layer of leaf mould in spring keeps the roots cool and the soil moist.

Frost protection

Cover the young shoots with horticultural fleece in spring when late night frosts are forecast.

Moving

It dislikes being moved: choose the right spot straight away and leave it in peace.

Tip: Cover the young shoots with horticultural fleece in spring when late night frosts are forecast, and leave it unpruned. A sheltered spot without morning sun gives it the best chance.

Tibetan tree peony: when to prune it?

When: It does not need pruning. In April–May, when the buds break, remove only dead or frosted branches.

How:

• Cut dead branches back to healthy wood.
• Cut frosted tips back to just above a healthy bud.
• To keep the shrub open and airy, now and then remove a dead stem right at the base.

Caution: Do not cut into healthy wood: the flower buds sit at the ends of last year’s branches, so every branch you cut off costs you flowers.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

Sow fresh seed in September–October in a deep pot or outdoors. It germinates slowly: the root often grows in the first year and the shoot only appears after the next winter. Young plants only flower after a few years.

Grafting

Nurseries graft it in August–September onto a peony root. This is tricky for the home gardener; it is better to buy a rooted plant.

Tibetan tree peony: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −20 °C.

• Hardy to about −20 °C: in Flanders the shrub itself is no problem.
• The young spring shoots can be frosted by late night frosts; cover them with horticultural fleece.
• In a pot, use a large, deep pot against a wall and wrap it in hessian so that the roots do not freeze.

Diseases and pests

• Late frost: Young shoots and buds turn black after a cold night in spring. Cover with fleece and cut out damaged parts later.
• Grey mould: Buds and shoots wilt and become covered in grey mould in a wet spring. Cut out affected parts and dispose of them with household waste.
• Wind damage: The large leaves tear in a windy spot. Choose a sheltered place or set up a screen.
• Poor flowering: Young plants only flower after a few years; too much shade or soil that is too wet holds back flowering.

Through the year

• March: Apply compost or organic fertiliser. Have fleece ready against late frost.
• April: Cover shoots on frosty nights. Cut out dead wood. Keep slugs off.
• May: Flowering: bright yellow flowers.
• June: After flowering, leave the pods on.
• July: Water in dry weather, especially young shrubs.
• August: Collect seed when the pods split open.
• September: Plant. Sow fresh seed.
• October: Plant. Mulch.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• It is named after Frank Ludlow, a British plant collector who travelled in Tibet in the 1930s and collected it there.
• In the wild it is rare and restricted to a small area of south-east Tibet.
• The seeds are remarkably large for a peony.