Chinese peony

Paeonia lactiflora

In other languages: Chinese pioenroos (Nederlands) · Pivoine de Chine (Français)

Comes from outside Europe, but is often planted here in gardens and parks.

The Chinese peony is a perennial from north-east Asia, where it grows wild in grassland, along scrub edges and on open mountain slopes in northern China, Mongolia, Korea and eastern Siberia. In Belgium it does not grow in the wild, but it is a classic of European ornamental gardens, and in China it has been cultivated for more than a thousand years. You recognise it by its red shoots in spring, its glossy, deeply cut leaves and its large, bowl-shaped or double flowers in white, pink or red, often with a lovely scent. It flowers in late May and June, when single-flowered varieties are loved by bumblebees. A well-planted peony can stay in the same spot for decades.

Caution: All parts of the plant are mildly poisonous if eaten and can cause vomiting and diarrhoea in people and in animals such as dogs, cats and horses. Keep young children and animals away from the seeds and roots.

Updated on 9 October 2026

Light
Sun or partial shade
preferably some sun
Moisture
Normal
no wet feet
Hardiness
Fully hardy
down to -30 °C
Size
0.8 m
tall, 0.8 m wide
Flowering
May–June

Key facts
Pruning months	June and October
Height	0.8 m
Native to Belgium	No, planted
Flowering	May–June

Identify

How to recognise it

Habit: Rounded, bushy clump 60–100 cm tall and as wide, which dies back completely in winter.
Leaf: Dark green and glossy, deeply cut into lance-shaped lobes; the young shoots are purplish-red in spring.
Flower: Large, 10–20 cm, single, semi-double or double, in white, pink, red and shades in between; often scented. Usually several buds per stem.
Fruit/Seed: Two to five leathery follicles that split open to show round, dark brown to black seeds.
Roots: Thick, fleshy, tuberous roots with pink buds, the ‘eyes’, at the top.
Look-alikes: The common peony (Paeonia officinalis) flowers earlier, in May, with one flower per stem and less glossy leaves. The tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) is a woody shrub that does not die back in winter.

Flowering: May–June · Pruning: June and October

In your garden

Why grow it?

Exceptionally long-lived: a peony can flower in the same spot for decades without being rejuvenated.
Single-flowered varieties with a centre full of yellow stamens are rich in pollen for bumblebees and bees; double flowers offer them little.
Attractive all season: red shoots in spring, flowers in June and often red or yellow autumn colour.
One of the loveliest scented cut flowers of early summer.
Little work and rarely ill in the right spot.

Chinese peony: where does it grow best?

In the wild: grassland, scrub edges and open mountain slopes in north-east Asia, with cold winters.
Full sun to light shade; at least six hours of sun a day for abundant flowers.
Deep, fertile and well-drained soil: loam or clay improved with compost, and not too wet in winter.
Not too close to trees or large shrubs, whose roots compete with it.
Allow 90 cm per plant: it spreads wide and wants to stay undisturbed for years.

Goes well with

Catmint: A blue edging that keeps flowering after the peonies have finished.
Hardy geranium: Fills the border after flowering and covers the soil.
Ornamental onion: Purple globes in May–June that rise nicely above the peony foliage.
Bearded iris: Flowers in the same weeks and likes the same sunny spot.
Lady’s mantle: A low, fresh green edging at the front of the border.

Maintenance

Chinese peony: when and how to plant it?

Buy plants from a nursery or garden centre; never dig plants up from the wild.
Plant bare-root plants preferably in September–October; potted plants can also go in during spring.
Dig a generous planting hole 40–50 cm deep and wide and mix in compost.
Most important: set the buds no more than 3–5 cm below the surface. Planted too deep, it will not flower.
Firm the soil well and water thoroughly.
Expect a young plant to flower fully only after 2–3 years: patience pays off.

Care

Water: In the first year, water weekly in dry spells. Later only in dry springs, when the buds are forming.
Feeding: In March, a layer of well-rotted compost around the plant, without covering the buds. Too much nitrogen gives lots of leaves and few flowers.
Support: In April, put a plant ring over the young shoots: double flowers become heavy after rain and flop.
Ants: Ants on the buds are harmless and do not need to be controlled.
Do not move: Preferably leave it in place: after moving or dividing, it often takes a few years before it flowers well again.

Tip: Unsure how deep to plant? Better too shallow than too deep: with the buds 3–5 cm below the surface, a peony flowers well for years; a few centimetres deeper and it makes only leaves.

Pruning and mowing

Pruning months: June and October.

When: Faded flowers in June; the foliage in October, once it has coloured.

How:

Cut off faded flowers down to the first leaf, unless you want seed: this saves energy for the roots.
Leave the foliage all summer: it feeds the roots for next year’s flowers.
In October, cut all stems back to just above the ground and clear away the leaves, to prevent grey mould.
On single-flowered varieties, you can let a few seed pods ripen: they are decorative in autumn.

Caution: Put leaves with grey mould in the household waste, not on the compost heap.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division: In September–October: lift the clump, rinse the soil off the roots and cut it into pieces, each with 3–5 buds and a few thick roots. Replant straight away, not too deep.
Seed: Sow fresh seed in autumn in a pot outside. In the first year only roots form; the shoot appears in the second spring. Seedlings flower after 4–5 years and do not resemble the parent.

Chinese peony: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

The leaves die back and the plant overwinters below ground as thick roots with buds.
Very hardy, to about −30 °C; it even needs a cold winter to flower well.
In March–April the purplish-red shoots appear, a fine sight in the empty border.
No protection is needed; do not cover the buds with a thick layer of mulch.

Diseases and pests

No flowers: Usually planted too deep, too much shade, too young or recently moved. In autumn, remove some soil or replant the peony shallower in a sunny spot.
Grey mould: Young shoots wilt and buds turn brown, especially in wet springs. Cut off affected parts, clear all the foliage in autumn and choose an airy spot.
Flopping flowers: Double flowers hang down after rain. Use a plant ring or choose sturdy, single-flowered varieties.
Buds that do not open: Caused by drought, too little sun or late frost. Water in spring and choose a sunny spot.
Leaf spots: Brown or purple spots on the leaves in late summer are usually harmless; clear the foliage in autumn.

Through the year

March: Red shoots appear. Apply compost.
April: Put a plant ring in place. Water in a dry spring.
May: The buds swell; ants on them are harmless. First flowers in late May.
June: Full flower. Cut flowers for the vase. Cut off faded flowers.
July: Leave the foliage. Water during long droughts.
August: Seed pods ripen on single-flowered varieties.
September: Plant or divide. Sow fresh seed.
October: Cut down stems and clear the foliage. Planting is still possible.

You and this species

Did you know?

The genus is named after Paeon, the physician of the gods in Greek mythology.
Ants on the buds feed on a sugary liquid the buds produce. They do not help the flower open, but they do no harm either.
Lactiflora means ‘with milk-white flowers’: the wild plant flowers white, sometimes pale pink.

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