Turkish sage

Turkish sage: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Sturdy, clump-forming perennial about 90 cm high and 75 cm wide, with upright, square stems.

Foliage

Large, heart-shaped, 15–20 cm, wrinkled and felted; dark green, paler and hairy underneath. Evergreen.

Flower

Whorls of hooded, two-lipped flowers stacked in up to six tiers, from June to August.

Colour

Soft yellow, often with a slight brownish tint on the buds.

Seed heads

Brown, dry whorls that stay in place in winter and give structure.

Flowering: June–August · Plants: March–May and September–October · Pruning: March

Why grow it?

• Large, felted, evergreen leaves that cover the ground and suppress weeds.
• Soft yellow flower whorls from June to August on strong, straight stems.
• The seed whorls stay up in winter and look beautiful with frost on them.
• Bumblebees and bees love it.
• Drought-tolerant, hardy (down to about −25 °C) and low-maintenance.

Turkish sage: where does it grow best?

• Full sun or light partial shade; in sun it flowers best.
• Free-draining soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky. In waterlogged clay it can rot away.
• Normal to fairly dry; it tolerates drought extremely well, but not wet feet.
• Allow 60–75 cm between plants; it is a true ground cover.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.9 m tall, 0.75 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -25 °C)

Goes well with

• Ornamental grasses: Airy stems make a lovely contrast with the large, felted leaves.
• Sage: Purple spikes beside the yellow whorls, in the same sunny, dry soil.
• Coneflower: The same sunny spot, with flowers from summer onwards.
• Ice plant: A succulent with pink flower heads in late summer, beside the sturdy foliage.

Turkish sage: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–May and September–October.

1. Plant in March–May or September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor too wet.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the pot; loosen heavy soil with sand or grit.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot and firm the soil.
4. Keep 60–75 cm between plants.
5. Water in generously at once and keep the soil lightly moist during the first season.
6. Spread a thin layer of compost or bark around the plant, but not against the heart.

Care

Water

In the first year weekly in dry weather. After that rarely: it tolerates drought well.

Feeding

Little: a spadeful of compost in spring is enough. Too rich a soil gives floppy foliage.

Mulching

A thin layer of compost or bark keeps weeds down, but not against the crown.

Deadheading

Leave the seed whorls over winter; cut them off in March.

Support

Not needed: the sturdy stems stand upright without support.

Dividing

Divide an old clump every 4–5 years in spring to keep it fresh.

Tip: Leave the seed stems standing in winter: with frost on them they are beautiful. Only cut them off in March, when the fresh foliage develops.

Turkish sage: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March.

When: In March, before the new shoots start to grow.

How:

• Cut the old flower stems down to the ground.
• Remove weathered or damaged leaves to make room for the fresh foliage.
• Cut off the flower stems earlier if you do not want it to self-seed.
• Leave the seed whorls standing in autumn and winter for winter interest.

Caution: If you leave the seed whorls, seedlings may appear. Weed them out if you do not want them.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Division

In March–April or September: lift the clump, divide it with a spade into pieces with roots and replant at once, 60–75 cm apart.

Seed

Sow outdoors in autumn or in pots in spring. Germination is slow; the seedlings are not always uniform.

Turkish sage: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −25 °C.

• Hardy down to about −25 °C: as a rule no protection is needed in Belgium.
• The foliage usually stays green, but may turn brown in severe frost; cut it back in March.
• Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: make sure drainage is good.
• In a pot: choose a large pot with drainage and stand it against a wall.

Diseases and pests

• Rotting in wet soil: Limp, yellow leaves and a rotting crown in waterlogged clay. Improve drainage with grit or plant in a drier spot.
• Slugs: They eat young leaves in spring. Pick them off in the evening.
• Seedlings: It self-seeds if you leave the seed whorls. Pull out unwanted seedlings.
• Tatty foliage in spring: Winter damage leaves brown, weathered leaves. Cut them off in March: fresh foliage grows back by itself.

Through the year

• March: Cut off old stems and tatty leaves. Plant or divide.
• April: Plant. Mulch.
• May: Plant. Watch for slugs.
• June: Flowering begins.
• July: Flowering. Bumblebees and bees.
• August: Flowering. Seed whorls form.
• September: Plant or divide. Sow.
• October: Plant. Leave the seed whorls.
• December: Rest. The seed whorls decorate the garden.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Did you know?

• The species name russeliana honours Alexander Russell, a Scottish physician and naturalist who worked in Aleppo in the 18th century and wrote about the nature of the region.
• Phlomis comes from a Greek word for ‘flame’: the felted leaves of some species were once used as lamp wicks.
• The dry seed whorls stay up for months and are also lovely in a dried bouquet.