Oriental spruce

Oriental spruce: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Stately, conical tree about 25 m tall and 8 m wide, with a dense crown and horizontal to slightly drooping branches. Slow-growing at first.

Needles

Very short, 6–12 mm, square in cross-section, blunt, glossy dark green and packed closely around the twig.

Cones

Cylindrical, 6–9 cm long, hanging; purplish red when young, later brown.

Bark

Grey-brown and flaking on older trees.

Roots

Fairly shallow and widely spreading: avoid compacted or waterlogged soil.

Plants: April–May and September–October

Why grow it?

• Dense, dark green, velvety branches thanks to the shortest needles of all the spruces.
• An elegant, regular conical shape with softly drooping branches.
• Tolerates drought and lime better than the Norway spruce.
• Evergreen and fully hardy, to about −30 °C: a fine specimen or small group for a large garden.
• Purplish-red young cones in spring and, on selections such as ‘Aurea’, golden-yellow shoots.

Oriental spruce: where does it grow best?

• Sun to partial shade; the crown is densest in full sun.
• Ordinary garden soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky, well drained.
• Normally moist; once established it tolerates more drought than the Norway spruce, but not wet feet.
• Choose a spot where late spring frost does not linger, as it comes into growth early.
• Allow 8 m width and 8–10 m from buildings and pipework.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

25 m tall, 8 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Barrenwort: Likes the dry shade beneath conifers and forms a dense ground cover.
• Ferns: Soft green underplanting in the shade of the tree.
• Cranesbill: A sturdy ground cover that tolerates dry shade.
• Japanese maple: Bright autumn foliage in contrast with the dark green needles.

Oriental spruce: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May and September–October.

1. Plant in April–May or in September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Loosen the sides so the roots can grow out easily.
3. Set the tree at the same depth as in its pot or root ball: the root collar stays at soil level.
4. Add a stake and tie the trunk loosely. Keep 8–10 m away from other trees and buildings.
5. Water generously straight away, even if it is raining.
6. Spread a layer of bark or leaf mould mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the trunk.

Care

Water

For the first two years, water generously every week in dry spells. After that it usually manages on its own, though it appreciates water in long, dry summers.

Feeding

Usually not needed. On poor soil, give a little compost in spring.

Mulching

Bark or leaf mould keeps the shallow roots cool and moist.

Stake

Leave the stake in place for 2–3 years and check that the tie does not cut into the trunk.

Checking

In spring, look for frosted shoots; in summer, for spider mite and small aphids.

Tip: Plant it where frost does not collect: it starts into growth early and a late frost can scorch the young shoots brown. Cover young trees with fleece when frost is forecast.

Oriental spruce: when to prune it?

When: It does not need pruning: it keeps a neat crown by itself. Only remove dead or damaged branches if necessary.

How:

• Cut dead or damaged branches back to the trunk or a side branch.
• Remove a double leader and leave one strong leader.
• Leave the lower branches in place: they are part of the natural shape.

Caution: Never cut into bare wood without needles: a spruce will not regrow from it.

Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

Collect the cones in autumn, let them dry and shake out the seeds. Sow them in spring in pots outdoors, after a cold period over winter.

Grafting

Selections such as ‘Aurea’ are grafted by nurseries; seedlings do not come true to the parent plant.

Oriental spruce: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Fully hardy, to about −30 °C: no protection is needed.
• Young shoots can be frosted on cold nights in April–May. Cover small trees with fleece on frosty nights.
• In a pot: put the pot in a sheltered spot and wrap it in hessian so the roots do not freeze. Water in dry, frost-free weather.

Diseases and pests

• Late frost damage: Young shoots shrivel and turn brown after a late frost in April–May. Do not plant in a frost pocket and cover small trees with fleece when frost is forecast.
• Spider mite: Fine webbing and pale, dried-out needles, mainly in heat and drought. Hold a sheet of white paper under a branch and tap it: tiny moving dots are mites. Spray with a strong jet of water and water generously.
• Brown needles: Needles turn brown from drought or from drying out in frost. Water in dry weather and mulch the root zone.
• Aphids: Now and then on young shoots, sometimes with sticky honeydew. Spray them off with water; ladybirds help.

Through the year

• March: Check for winter damage. Renew the mulch.
• April: Plant. New shoots appear (golden yellow on ‘Aurea’). Cover young trees in a late frost.
• May: Plant. Purplish-red young cones. Water new plantings.
• June: Water in dry weather. Check for spider mite.
• July: Spray in dry, warm weather. Water.
• August: Water in dry and hot weather.
• September: Plant. The cones ripen and turn brown.
• October: Plant. Water new plantings.
• November: Apply mulch around young trees.
• December: Rest. Protect pots from frost.

Did you know?

• In its homeland it can grow to 50 m or more, far taller than in a garden.
• It is related to the Norway spruce (the classic Christmas tree) but recognisable by its much shorter needles.
• The species name orientalis means ‘eastern’ and refers to its origin in the Caucasus region, east of Europe.