Littleleaf lilac

Littleleaf lilac: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Compact, rounded, dense shrub about 2 m tall and wide.

Leaves

Small, oval, 2–5 cm, opposite, dark green.

Flowers

Small panicles of scented pink flowers in May–June, and a second, lighter flush in September.

Scent

Sweet, especially in the first flowering.

Roots

Fibrous and branching; it may form some suckers.

Flowering: May–June and September · Plants: March–April and October–November · Pruning: June

Why grow it?

• Scented pink flowers in May–June and a second flush in September.
• Compact size of about 2 m: suitable for smaller gardens.
• Small foliage makes a fine, dense shrub.
• Bees and butterflies visit the flowers, even in late summer.
• Low maintenance: it needs hardly any pruning.

Littleleaf lilac: where does it grow best?

• Sun to partial shade; it flowers best in sun.
• Rich, well-drained soil: sand, loam or clay, best neutral to chalky; add a little lime on acid soil.
• Normally moist soil; it dislikes wet feet.
• A spot near a terrace or window where you will smell it; it also suits a border or a low hedge.
• Allow 1.5–2 m of space per plant; 1 m for a hedge.

Light

Sun and partial shade

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Normal

Size

2 m tall, 2 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -30 °C)

Goes well with

• Lavender: Likes the same sunny, well-drained spot and flowers at the same time.
• Cranesbill (hardy geranium): Blue or purple flowers fill the space under the shrub.
• Shrub rose: Flowers in June too and takes over after the lilac.
• Sage (Salvia nemorosa): Purple flower spikes look lovely with the pink panicles.

Littleleaf lilac: when and how to plant it?

Plant in March–April and October–November.

1. Plant in March–April or in October–November, when the soil is neither frozen nor waterlogged.
2. Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and mix in compost.
3. Set the shrub at the same depth as it stood in its pot and firm the soil well.
4. Keep 1.5–2 m apart, or about 1 m for a hedge.
5. Water in well straight away, even if it is raining.
6. Spread a layer of compost or bark around the base, without covering the stem.

Care

Water

Weekly in dry spells in the first year. After that rain is enough, except in long dry summers; watering then also helps the second flush.

Feeding

In spring, a spadeful of compost or organic fertiliser. Too much nitrogen gives plenty of leaves and few flowers.

Mulching

A layer of compost or bark keeps the soil cool and moist.

Spent flowers

Cut off the faded panicles after the first flowering; this can encourage the second flush.

Liming

On acid soil, scatter a little lime every few years.

Tip: Cut off the faded panicles after the first flowering: this can encourage the second flush in September. It needs no more pruning, as it is compact by nature.

Littleleaf lilac: when to prune it?

Pruning months: June.

When: Straight after the first flowering, in June. Otherwise it needs hardly any pruning.

How:

• Cut off the faded panicles just above the first pair of leaves or young shoots.
• Remove dead, weak and crossing stems right at the base.
• Every few years, take a few of the oldest stems to the ground to keep the shrub young.
• Keep the shape with a light trim; it stays compact by nature.

Caution: The first flowering is on old wood: do not prune in winter or spring, or you will cut off the flower buds.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Softwood cuttings

In June–July: 8–10 cm cuttings from young shoots in moist cutting compost under plastic. Results vary, so take several.

Layering

In spring, bury a low stem and pin it down; separate it after a year.

Suckers

In autumn, lift a rooted sucker. On grafted shrubs the sucker comes from the rootstock and is not the same as the plant.

Littleleaf lilac: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −30 °C.

• Hardy down to about −30 °C: in Belgium it never needs protection.
• The buds for next year’s first flowering are already on the branches, so do not prune in winter.
• In a pot: stand it against a wall and wrap the pot in hessian so the roots do not freeze.

Diseases and pests

• Powdery mildew: White powder on the leaves from late summer. Usually harmless; ensure air and space, water at the base and thin a dense shrub.
• Bacterial blight: Black spots on leaves and young shoots and dying tips in a cool, wet spring. Cut affected wood back into healthy wood, clear the prunings and avoid too much nitrogen.
• Few or no flowers: Too much shade, too much nitrogen fertiliser or pruning in winter. Move it to a sunnier spot, feed less and prune only after the first flowering.
• No second flush: Drought or pruning too late. Cut off the faded panicles early and water in dry summer weather.

Through the year

• March: Plant or transplant. Give compost.
• April: Apply mulch. Water young plants.
• May: First flowering. Watch for aphids.
• June: Cut off faded panicles and trim lightly. Take softwood cuttings.
• July: Water in dry weather.
• August: Watch for powdery mildew. Water in dry weather.
• September: Second flowering. Bees and butterflies on the flowers.
• October: Plant. Lift suckers.
• November: Plant. Clear fallen leaves.
• December: Dormant. Next year’s buds are already on the branches.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• The species name pubescens means ‘downy’ and the subspecies name microphylla ‘small-leaved’.
• It often flowers twice: in May–June and again in late summer.
• Lilacs belong to the olive family, like olive, jasmine and ash.