
Photo: James H. Miller, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org, CC BY 3.0 · source
Shrub · Celastraceae
Wintercreeper
Euonymus fortunei
In other languages: Kardinaalsmuts (Nederlands) · Fusain de Fortune (Français)
Wintercreeper comes from East Asia, from China and Korea to Japan. It is an evergreen shrub with small, leathery leaves that creeps across the ground or climbs a wall or tree trunk with short aerial roots, sometimes up to 3 m high. Left to itself it forms a low, dense mat about 60 cm high and 1.5 m wide. Gardeners know it mainly from the variegated varieties, such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’ with white-edged leaves and ‘Sunspot’ with a yellow centre. It grows in sun and in deep shade, in almost any soil, and needs very little work.
Caution: All parts are poisonous, including the fruits and seeds: keep children and pets away and do not leave prunings lying around.
Light
Sun to shade
not fussy
Moisture
Dry to normal
no wet feet
Legal basis
Sand, loam or clay
any pH
Hardiness
Fully hardy
down to -25 °C
Size
0.6 m
tall, 1.5 m wide
| Pruning months | April |
|---|---|
| Height | 0.6 m |
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Yes, take care with children and pets |
Identify
Wintercreeper: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Creeping or climbing shrub, 40–60 cm high and up to 1.5 m wide when grown freely; up to 3 m against a wall.
- Leaves
- Small, oval, 2–6 cm, leathery and in opposite pairs; green or variegated with a white or yellow edge or blotch.
- Stems
- Green, pliable shoots that root where they touch the soil; climbing shoots form short aerial roots.
- Flowers and fruit
- Small, greenish-white flowers that hardly show, only on older, shrubby branches. Occasionally followed by pale pink fruits with orange seeds.
- Roots
- Fine and branching; trailing stems root by themselves, so the plant slowly forms a dense mat.
Plants: April–May and September–October · Pruning: April
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Evergreen: a dense, fresh green or variegated layer all year round.
- Also grows in dry shade under trees and shrubs, where many other plants give up.
- A tough ground cover that smothers weeds, even on a bank or at the foot of a hedge.
- Variegated varieties brighten a dark corner; some take on a pink tinge in winter.
- Climbs a wall, fence or trunk without help, as an evergreen covering.
- Little work: one trim in spring is enough.
Wintercreeper: where does it grow best?
- Sun, partial shade or shade: it does well anywhere, but variegated varieties colour best in sun or light shade.
- Almost any soil: sand, loam or clay, acid, neutral or chalky.
- Dry to moist; avoid soil that stays wet for long in winter.
- As ground cover, 4–6 plants per m², 40–50 cm apart.
- Against a wall: plant 30 cm from the base and guide the first shoots towards the wall.
- Light
- Sun, partial shade and shade
- Soil type
- Sand, loam or clay
- Acidity
- Not fussy
- Moisture
- Dry or normal
- Size
- 0.6 m tall, 1.5 m wide
- Hardiness
- Hardy (to -25 °C)
Goes well with
- Ferns: Together they make a calm, evergreen underplanting in shade.
- Hosta: Large leaves above a low, variegated mat.
- Snowdrops: They push up through the evergreen layer in February.
- Japanese forest grass: Soft, arching blades next to the small, firm leaves.
- Lenten rose: Flowers in late winter, when the ground cover is the only green.
Maintenance
Wintercreeper: when and how to plant it?
Plant in April–May and September–October.
- Plant in April–May or September–October, when the soil is neither frozen nor too wet.
- Clear the soil of weeds, loosen it and work in some compost, especially in poor, sandy soil.
- Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot.
- As ground cover, space plants 40–50 cm apart; lay long shoots flat on the soil and pin them down so they root faster.
- Firm the soil well and water in thoroughly straight away.
- Mulch between the plants until they have knitted together: this keeps weeds down.
Care
- Watering
- Weekly in dry spells during the first year. Once established it copes well with drought.
- Feeding
- Hardly needed; a little compost between the plants in March–April is enough.
- Mulching
- Keep a layer of wood chips or leaf mould between young plants until they cover the ground.
- Weeding
- Weed between the plants for the first two years; after that the dense mat keeps weeds out by itself.
- Green shoots
- On variegated varieties, remove all-green shoots straight away, right back to the base: they grow more strongly and would otherwise take over.
- Climbing
- If you don’t want it to climb into a hedge, tree or up a house wall, cut those shoots off in good time.
Tip: On variegated varieties, cut out every all-green shoot right back to the base as soon as you see it: the plant stays nicely variegated and is not overrun by the stronger green growth.
Wintercreeper: when to prune it?
Pruning months: April.
When: In April, once the worst frosts are over. On variegated varieties, cut out green shoots as soon as you see them.
How:
- Cut back overlong or straggly shoots to within the desired shape, just above a leaf.
- A bare or untidy ground cover can be sheared back to 20–30 cm every few years; it soon grows back densely.
- Against a wall: remove shoots that grow away from the wall or creep towards gutters, windows and roof tiles.
- Remove dead twigs and any that have been browned by frost.
Caution: All parts are poisonous: clear up the prunings and wash your hands after pruning.
Propagation
- Layers
- Trailing stems often root by themselves. In spring, cut off a rooted piece and replant it straight away.
- Semi-ripe cuttings
- In August–September: cuttings of 8–10 cm, lower leaves removed, in moist cutting compost under plastic or in a cold frame. They root readily.
Wintercreeper: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy to −25 °C.
- Hardy to about −25 °C: no protection is needed in Belgian winters.
- Some variegated varieties take on a pink tinge in the cold; this is normal and disappears in spring.
- Cold east winds and bright winter sun can brown some leaves; trim these off in April.
- In a pot or container: keep it in a sheltered spot and wrap the pot in hessian so the root ball does not freeze.
Diseases and pests
- Scale insects: White or brown scales on the stems and leaf undersides, with yellow spots above them. Cut out badly affected stems and wipe the rest with a soft brush and soapy water.
- Powdery mildew: White powder on the leaves, especially in a dry, sheltered spot. Cut out affected shoots and water at the base in dry spells.
- Green shoots: Variegated varieties sometimes produce shoots with all-green leaves. Cut them out at the base, or they will take over.
- Climbing too far: On a house wall it creeps under roof tiles and into gutters. Cut back the topmost shoots every spring.
Through the year
- January: Rest. Variegated varieties sometimes turn pink in the cold.
- March: Spread compost or mulch between young plants.
- April: Prune: cut back overlong shoots. Planting.
- May: Planting. Remove green shoots from variegated varieties.
- June: Watch for scale insects and powdery mildew.
- July: Water young plants in dry spells.
- August: Take semi-ripe cuttings.
- September: Planting. Take cuttings.
- October: Planting. Rake fallen leaves out of the mat.
- December: Rest. An evergreen feature in the winter garden.
Use
Edible and useful
Not edible. The brightly coloured fruits of spindle (pink with orange seeds) are poisonous and can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and heart problems in children and pets. The leaves and bark are poisonous too. Birds, however, eat the seeds without harm. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.
You and this species
Did you know?
- Like ivy, it has a juvenile form that creeps and climbs, and an adult form that grows as a shrub and only then bears flowers and fruit.
- Its species name honours Robert Fortune, the Scottish plant hunter who brought many plants from China to Europe in the 19th century.
- It is related to the native spindle tree, whose pink fruits resemble a cardinal’s hat; that is where its Dutch name, kardinaalsmuts, comes from.