Mediterranean spurge (Euphorbia characias)

Photo: A. Barra, CC BY 3.0 · source

Perennial · Euphorbiaceae

Mediterranean spurge

Euphorbia characias

In other languages: Vroege wolfsmelk (Nederlands) · Euphorbe characias (Français)

Mediterranean spurge comes from the Mediterranean region, from Portugal to Turkey. It is an evergreen, shrubby perennial of about 1–1.2 m, with upright stems densely clothed in narrow, blue-grey leaves. From March to June the stems carry large, cylindrical heads of lime-green ‘flowers’, which are really bracts surrounding tiny flowers. The subspecies wulfenii has large, bright yellow-green heads; in ‘Black Pearl’ the little flowers have a dark eye. Gardeners value it for its architectural shape all year round and for its early flowers in dry, sunny gardens.

Caution: Poisonous: all parts contain a white milky sap that irritates the skin and can seriously damage the eyes. It is also poisonous if eaten, for people and pets. Wear gloves for any work on the plant and don’t plant it where young children play.

  • Light

    Full sun

    warm and bright

  • Moisture

    Dry

    tolerates drought

  • Legal basis

    Sand or loam

    any pH

  • Hardiness

    down to -15 °C

    protect young plants

  • Size

    1.2 m

    tall, 1.2 m wide

  • Flowering

    March–June

Key facts
Pruning monthsJune–July
Height1.2 m
Native to BelgiumNo, planted
Good for bees, butterflies and birdsYes, for bees
Poisonous to people and petsYes, take care with children and pets
FloweringMarch–June

Identify

Mediterranean spurge: how do you recognise it?

Habit
Evergreen, upright subshrub 1–1.2 m tall and as wide, with stems rising from a woody base.
Leaves
Narrow and lance-shaped, 5–12 cm long, blue-grey, closely set around the stems.
Flowers
Large, cylindrical heads 20–30 cm long at the tips of two-year-old stems, from March to June.
Colour
Lime green; some forms have dark red-brown nectar glands that look like little eyes.
Sap
All parts contain a white milky sap that flows from any wound; it is caustic and poisonous.
Seed
Small round capsules that burst open in summer and fling out their seeds.

Flowering: March–June · Plants: April–May and September · Pruning: June–July

In your garden

Why grow it?

  • Evergreen: the blue-grey foliage gives structure in every season.
  • Flowers early and for a long time, from March to June, while the border is still largely bare.
  • The flowers provide nectar for bees and other insects in early spring.
  • Drought-tolerant: ideal for a gravel garden, a Mediterranean garden or a sunny border.
  • An architectural plant that also looks good in a large pot or a contemporary garden.

Mediterranean spurge: where does it grow best?

  • Full sun, or light partial shade.
  • Poor to moderately fertile, free-draining sandy or loamy soil, acid to chalky.
  • Dry: wet soil in winter is its worst enemy.
  • Sheltered from cold easterly winds, for example in front of a south-facing wall.
  • Allow 80–100 cm of space per plant.
Light
Sun
Soil type
Sand or loam
Acidity
Not fussy
Moisture
Dry
Size
1.2 m tall, 1.2 m wide
Hardiness
Hardy (to -15 °C)

Goes well with

  • Tulips: Flower at the same time; red or purple beside lime green is a classic.
  • Lavender: The same dry, sunny spot, flowering later in summer.
  • Rosemary: Also Mediterranean and evergreen, with small blue flowers in spring.
  • Mexican feather grass: A fine, airy grass beside the bold flower heads.
  • Red valerian: Takes over the flowering in summer, in the same poor soil.

Maintenance

Mediterranean spurge: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May and September.

  1. Plant in April–May or in September, while the soil is still warm.
  2. Dig a hole slightly wider than the root ball and, in heavier soil, mix in coarse sand or gravel.
  3. Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot, no deeper.
  4. Keep 80–100 cm between it and other plants.
  5. Water when planting and in dry spells during the first season.
  6. Wear gloves: sap runs from every damaged stem or leaf.

Care

Water
Only in dry spells during the first year. After that it is not needed.
Feeding
Not needed. On rich soil it grows soft and less hardy.
Spent stems
After flowering, cut the stems that have flowered right down at the base; the new stems will flower next year.
Seedlings
It self-seeds readily. Pull out seedlings in the wrong place while young, wearing gloves.
Mulching
Gravel around the base keeps it dry in winter and keeps weeds down.

Tip: Plant it against a sunny wall in poor, free-draining soil: that is where it is best protected from frost and wet roots, its two worst enemies.

Mediterranean spurge: when to prune it?

Pruning months: June–July.

When: After flowering, in June–July, before the seed capsules burst.

How:

  • Cut every stem that has flowered right down at the base.
  • Keep the young, non-flowering stems: they will flower next spring.
  • In spring, remove stems that have been snapped or browned by frost or snow.
  • Wipe sap off your secateurs straight away with kitchen paper, then wash your hands.

Caution: Wear gloves, long sleeves and preferably glasses, and don’t rub your eyes: the sap is caustic.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Self-sown seedlings
It self-seeds freely. Move young seedlings in spring or September, wearing gloves.
Cuttings
In April–May, take cuttings of young shoots from the base. Dip the cut end briefly in lukewarm water to stop the sap and root them in sandy cutting compost.

Mediterranean spurge: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −15 °C: protect young plants.

  • Hardy to about −15 °C: it comes through most Belgian winters well, especially in a dry, sheltered spot.
  • In hard, prolonged frost, cover it with horticultural fleece.
  • Shake heavy snow off the stems, or they will snap.
  • In a pot: stand it against a wall, raised on pot feet, and wrap the pot in frosty weather.

Diseases and pests

  • Root rot: The plant collapses after a wet winter. Replant it in a drier spot or on a raised mound with gravel.
  • Snapped or brown stems: Caused by frost, snow or cold wind. Cut them out at the base in spring; the plant usually regrows.
  • Aphids: On young shoots in spring. Hose them off, wearing gloves.
  • Too many seedlings: Remove spent stems before the capsules ripen.
  • Bare and sprawling: Older plants sometimes fall open. Replace them with a young seedling.

Through the year

  • March: Flowering begins. Cut out snapped stems.
  • April: Full flower. Plant.
  • May: In flower. Plant. Take cuttings.
  • June: Cut spent stems down at the base.
  • July: Remove the last spent stems before the capsules burst.
  • September: Plant. Move seedlings.
  • November: Spread gravel around the base for a dry winter.
  • December: Cover in hard frost. Shake snow off the stems.

Use

Edible and useful

Not edible. All parts of spurges contain a white, milky sap that is poisonous and caustic. On the skin it causes redness, itching and sometimes blisters; in the eyes it is extremely painful and can damage the cornea. Whenever you work on the plant, wear gloves, long sleeves and ideally safety glasses, do not rub your eyes, wash your hands and secateurs afterwards, and teach children not to break off the stems. If sap gets in your eyes, rinse them at once under running lukewarm water for at least a quarter of an hour and see a doctor. Swallowed, it burns the mouth and causes vomiting and stomach ache, in dogs and cats too; horses and livestock fall ill from it: never throw clippings into a field. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Good for wildlife

Bees
Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

You and this species

Did you know?

  • The ‘flowers’ are not ordinary flowers: each lime-green cup holds one female and several male flowers without petals, surrounded by bracts.
  • In summer the ripe capsules burst open with an audible snap and fling the seeds quite a distance.
  • The name Euphorbia refers to Euphorbus, physician to King Juba II of Mauretania more than two thousand years ago.

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