
Photo: Christian Orlandi, CC BY-SA 4.0 · source
Perennial · Papaveraceae
Oriental poppy
Papaver orientale
In other languages: Oosterse papaver (Nederlands) · Pavot d’Orient (Français)
Oriental poppy comes from the Caucasus, north-eastern Turkey and northern Iran. It is a vigorous perennial with coarsely cut, rough, hairy grey-green leaves and, in May–June, huge silky flowers 10–15 cm across on stems up to 90 cm. The classic colour is orange-red with a black blotch at the base of each petal, but there are also pink, salmon, plum and white cultivars. After flowering the leaves die back and the plant rests until autumn, when a new rosette appears. Well-known cultivars are ‘Beauty of Livermere’ (scarlet), ‘Perry’s White’ (white with a dark centre) and ‘Patty’s Plum’ (plum).
Caution: All parts are poisonous, including the milky sap. Do not let children or pets nibble it, and wear gloves when cutting back.
Light
Full sun
warm and bright
Moisture
Dry to normal
no wet feet
Legal basis
Sand, loam or clay
any pH
Hardiness
Fully hardy
down to -35 °C
Size
0.9 m
tall, 0.6 m wide
Flowering
May–June
| Pruning months | July |
|---|---|
| Height | 0.9 m |
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Good for bees, butterflies and birds | Yes, for bees |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Yes, take care with children and pets |
| Flowering | May–June |
Identify
Oriental poppy: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- A broad clump of coarse leaves with flower stems up to 90 cm tall; about 60 cm wide.
- Leaves
- Deeply cut, rough, hairy and grey-green; dies back after flowering and returns in autumn as an evergreen rosette.
- Flowers
- Cup-shaped, 10–15 cm across, with crumpled, silky petals around a ring of dark stamens, in May–June.
- Colour
- Orange-red with black blotches at the base; also pink, salmon, plum or white in cultivars.
- Fruit
- A round seed capsule with a flat lid; the seeds escape through small holes under the rim.
- Roots
- A thick, deep taproot: it dislikes being moved.
Flowering: May–June · Plants: March–April and September–October · Pruning: July
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Spectacular, large, silky flowers at the high point of the late-spring border.
- Bumblebees and bees love gathering its abundant pollen.
- A fine cut flower, and the seed heads look good in dried arrangements.
- Fully hardy and, thanks to its deep taproot, copes well with drought.
- Once established, it stays in the same spot for many years.
Oriental poppy: where does it grow best?
- Full sun; in shade the stems flop and it flowers poorly.
- Any well-drained soil, from sand to clay, acid, neutral or chalky.
- Dry to average soil; it copes badly with wet soil, especially in winter.
- Space plants 50–60 cm apart and plan late-flowering neighbours to fill the gap after flowering.
- Light
- Sun
- Soil type
- Sand, loam or clay
- Acidity
- Not fussy
- Moisture
- Dry or normal
- Size
- 0.9 m tall, 0.6 m wide
- Hardiness
- Hardy (to -35 °C)
Goes well with
- Baby’s breath: A cloud of small white flowers that fills the gap after flowering.
- Michaelmas daisy: Flowers late and takes over the space in late summer.
- Ornamental grass: Keeps growing through summer and fills the empty space.
- Catmint: Blue flowers alongside the poppy, and again after cutting back.
- Bearded iris: Flowers at the same time and also likes a sunny, dry spot.
Maintenance
Oriental poppy: when and how to plant it?
Plant in March–April and September–October.
- Plant in March–April or in September–October, when the soil is not wet.
- Choose the right spot from the start: because of its deep taproot it dislikes being moved.
- Dig a deep hole and loosen the soil well underneath; mix coarse sand into heavy soil.
- Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot, without breaking the root ball.
- Space plants 50–60 cm apart.
- Water well at planting; after that only during dry spells in the first year.
Care
- Watering
- Little is needed: only in long dry spells in the first year. Wet soil is more dangerous than drought.
- Feeding
- Sparingly: a little compost in spring. Too much fertiliser gives floppy stems.
- Support
- In April, put a plant support or ring around the clump: the heavy flowers easily fall over after rain or wind.
- Cut flowers
- Pick in bud, when the colour is showing, and dip the cut end briefly in hot water or sear it.
- After flowering
- Cut back the dying leaves and let late-flowering plants take over the space.
Tip: Plant late-flowering perennials such as baby’s breath or asters right next to the poppy: when its leaves die back in July, they grow over the gap.
Oriental poppy: when to prune it?
Pruning months: July.
When: In July, after flowering, when the leaves turn yellow and die back.
How:
- Cut off spent flowers, unless you want to keep the decorative seed heads.
- Cut the dying leaves and stems back to just above the ground.
- In September–October a new rosette appears that lasts through winter: leave it in place.
Caution: Wear gloves when cutting back: the milky sap is poisonous and can irritate the skin.
Propagation
- Root cuttings
- In winter: carefully expose the roots, cut 5–8 cm pieces of thick root and push them upright into gritty cutting compost, with the top just below the surface. Cut straight at the top and slanted at the bottom so you know which way up they go.
- Division
- Possible in early spring or after flowering, but less successful because of the taproot. Take large pieces with plenty of root.
- Seed
- In spring, where it is to flower in a sunny spot; the colours of garden cultivars rarely come true.
Oriental poppy: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy to −35 °C.
- Fully hardy, to about −35 °C.
- The evergreen winter rosette needs no protection.
- Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: make sure drainage is good.
Diseases and pests
- Downy mildew: Yellow patches and distorted leaves with greyish-purple mould underneath, mainly in damp weather. Remove affected leaves and do not compost them.
- Root rot: In wet, heavy soil the plant wilts and the taproot rots. Replant in a drier, better-drained spot.
- Flopping: Heavy flowers and stems fall over after rain. Put a plant support in place in April.
- Aphids: Black aphids on stems and buds. Hose them off with water.
- Gap in the border: After flowering the leaves die back. Plant late-flowering neighbours to take over the space.
Through the year
- March: Planting. Apply a little compost.
- April: Put supports in place. Planting.
- May: Flowering begins. Cut flowers in bud for the vase.
- June: Flowering. Remove spent flowers or leave the seed heads.
- July: Cut back the dying leaves. Let late-flowering plants take over.
- August: Resting: little or no water needed.
- September: A new rosette appears. Planting.
- October: Planting.
- November: Take root cuttings.
- December: Take root cuttings.
Use
Edible and useful
Not edible. All parts of these poppies are poisonous, especially the milky sap and the unripe seed heads: they contain alkaloids that cause nausea, vomiting, stomach ache and drowsiness if swallowed, in children as well as in dogs, cats and grazing livestock. They are not opium poppies: the poppy seed from the bakery comes from the opium poppy (Papaver somniferum), and the seed of these poppies is not eaten. Do not make tea from the flowers or seed heads, and hang dried arrangements with seed heads out of children’s reach. The sap can irritate the skin: wear gloves when cutting flowers for the vase, and keep the vase out of reach of small children and cats. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.
Good for wildlife
- Bees
- Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.
You and this species
Did you know?
- The buds first hang down and only straighten up just before opening; as the flower opens, the two hairy sepals fall off.
- The seed capsule works like a pepper pot: in the wind, the seeds shake out through small holes under the lid.
- It is related to the field poppy and greater celandine, which also have milky or coloured sap.