Ivy-leaved geranium

Ivy-leaved geranium: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Trailing to creeping plant 20–30 cm high; the stems grow 40–60 cm long and hang over the edge.

Stems

Thin and succulent, becoming woody at the base on older plants.

Leaves

Glossy, slightly fleshy, with five pointed lobes and an ivy-like shape; almost hairless.

Flowers

Umbel-like clusters of single or double flowers in red, pink, white, mauve or two-tone, from May to October.

Roots

Fibrous and fairly shallow: a well-drained pot matters, because wet feet cause rot.

Flowering: May–October · Plants: May–June · Pruning: February–March

Why grow it?

• Flowers non-stop from May into October, even in hot, sunny spots where other balcony plants struggle.
• The trailing stems of 40–60 cm are ideal for hanging baskets, window boxes and pots on a wall or steps.
• Tolerates sun and a short dry spell, so handy if you cannot water every day.
• Little work: removing faded flower clusters and feeding now and then is the main upkeep.
• Easy to keep and propagate from cuttings for the following season.

Ivy-leaved geranium: where does it grow best?

• Full sun is ideal, preferably at least six hours a day; the more sun, the richer the flowering. Light partial shade works too, with slightly fewer flowers.
• Light, free-draining soil or compost: sand, loam or clay, neutral to chalky.
• Moderately moist: let the top layer dry out between waterings and never stand the pot in a full saucer of water.
• Sheltered from strong wind and driving rain, which break or rot the stems and flower clusters.
• Allow 20–30 cm between plants in a window box and three plants in a 30 cm hanging basket.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Neutral or chalky

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

0.3 m tall, 0.6 m wide

Hardiness

Frost tender: plant out after the last frost (mid-May)

Goes well with

• Lobelia: Little blue flowers that contrast nicely with red or pink geraniums.
• Trailing petunia: Flowers just as long and enjoys the same sunny spot.
• Liquorice plant: Silvery-grey foliage that calms the bright colours of the geranium.
• Verbena: Trailing or creeping heads in purple and pink, just as tolerant of sun and drought.

Ivy-leaved geranium: when and how to plant it?

Plant in May–June.

1. Put the plants outside from mid-May, when night frost is no longer expected. They do not tolerate frost.
2. Choose a pot or box with drainage holes and put a layer of clay pebbles in the bottom.
3. Use light potting compost and, if you like, mix in a fifth of sand or perlite.
4. Plant at the same depth as in the nursery pot and leave a 2 cm watering gap at the rim. Keep 20–30 cm between plants.
5. Water straight away until the excess runs out at the bottom.
6. Keep the plants out of the fiercest midday sun for the first week so they can settle in.

Care

Water

Water when the top 2–3 cm is dry, at the base and not over the flowers. In a hanging basket daily in hot weather, in a large container every 2–3 days.

Feeding

From June to September give a flowering-plant feed in the water every two weeks. Stop in September so the stems can ripen.

Faded flowers

Cut faded clusters off with their whole stalk, right back to the stem. This keeps the flowering going and prevents grey mould.

Tidying

Remove yellow and dead leaves straight away: they attract fungi.

Turning

Turn hanging baskets now and then so every side gets light and the plant stays nicely round.

Repotting

Overwintered plants get fresh compost in spring and, if needed, a slightly larger pot.

Tip: Always water at the base rather than over the flowers, and cut faded clusters off with their whole stalk. Give a little too little water rather than too much: wet feet are its worst enemy.

Ivy-leaved geranium: when to prune it?

Pruning months: February–March.

When: In February–March for overwintered plants; during the season, keep removing faded clusters and limp stems.

How:

• Cut overwintered plants back in February–March to two or three nodes per stem (about 10–15 cm), cutting just above a node.
• Remove dead, diseased and crossing stems right at the base.
• In summer, shorten overly long, bare stems to just above a leaf; this encourages branching and new flowers.

Caution: Do not let fresh cuts get wet and do not prune in cold, damp weather: geraniums rot easily from the cut.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Cuttings (late summer)

In August–September: take cuttings of 8–10 cm from non-flowering tips, cut below a node and remove the lower leaves. Let the cut dry for a few hours, insert the cutting in a sand and compost mix and keep it lightly moist, without a plastic bag over it. They have rooted after about four weeks.

Cuttings (spring)

In March–April: use the shoots you remove when cutting back overwintered plants and treat them the same way.

Ivy-leaved geranium: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to 2 °C: protect in harsh winters.

• Not hardy: cold below about 2 °C damages the plant and frost kills it. Bring it indoors in October, before the first night frost.
• Overwinter in a bright, frost-free place at 5–10 °C, for example a cold greenhouse, conservatory or light garage with a window. Water sparingly: just enough that the root ball does not dry out completely.
• When bringing it in, remove only dead and diseased leaves and check for aphids and whitefly. Cut back in February–March and repot if needed.
• From mid-May it can go back outside, after a week of getting used to the open air.

Diseases and pests

• Grey mould: Grey, fluffy mould on flowers, leaves and stems in damp, cool weather. Remove affected parts, do not water over the flowers and allow space and airflow.
• Rot from overwatering: Yellow, limp leaves and a stem base turning black. Water less, use light soil and a pot with holes; throw away diseased plants.
• Geranium rust: Brown pustules in rings on the underside of the leaves with yellow spots above. Remove affected leaves at once, bin them (not the compost) and keep the foliage dry.
• Aphids and whitefly: Sticky leaves and small insects underneath. Spray off with water or a mild soap solution; ladybirds and lacewings help.

Through the year

• February: Cut overwintered plants back to 10–15 cm. Give fresh compost.
• March: Water more, move to a brighter spot and root the cut-off shoots as cuttings.
• April: Put outside by day to harden off, bring in at night.
• May: Plant out after mid-May. First flowers.
• June: Flowering. Feed every two weeks. Cut off faded clusters.
• July: Full flower. Water daily in hot weather.
• August: Flowering. Take cuttings from non-flowering tips.
• September: Last feed. Take cuttings.
• October: Last flowers. Bring indoors before the first night frost.
• November: Winter rest: bright, cool and almost dry.

Edible and useful

Not edible. Zonal and ivy-leaved geraniums are mildly poisonous, especially to cats and dogs: chewing the leaves or flowers causes vomiting, drooling and lethargy, and brushing against them often sometimes irritates the skin. Horses can be affected too. They are not scented geraniums: the leaves that give cakes or tea a rose or lemon scent come from other pelargoniums, and these are not used in the kitchen. Hang window boxes and hanging baskets out of reach of cats, do not let children chew the leaves, and wear gloves if you have sensitive skin. If any is swallowed, call a poison centre (in Belgium 070 245 245) or your doctor at once.

Did you know?

• Ivy-leaved geraniums are botanically pelargoniums and so not true geraniums: the hardy garden cranesbill (Geranium) is a different genus.
• Pelargonium comes from the Greek pelargos (stork), after the fruit that looks like a stork’s bill. Geranium means ‘crane’.
• The species name peltatum means ‘shield-shaped’ and refers to the shape of the leaf.