Rattlesnake master

Rattlesnake master: how do you recognise it?

Habit

A rosette of stiff leaves topped by upright stems, branched near the top, up to 1.2 m tall; about 60 cm wide.

Leaves

Strap-shaped, up to 60 cm long, stiff and grey-green, with parallel veins and soft spines along the edges.

Flowers

Round heads 1.5–2.5 cm across, greenish white, with small prickly bracts; from July to September.

Fruit

Dry seed heads that stand through winter and turn light brown.

Roots

Deep, fleshy roots: it copes well with drought, but does not like to be moved.

Flowering: July–September · Plants: April–May · Pruning: March

Why grow it?

• An exceptional, graphic plant: yucca-like leaves and neat little globes add structure to any border.
• Attracts a wide variety of bees, wasps, beetles and butterflies.
• Very drought tolerant once established, ideal for a prairie or gravel garden.
• Good as a cut flower and as a dried flower; the globes keep their shape for a long time.
• The seed heads stand through winter and look beautiful covered in frost.

Rattlesnake master: where does it grow best?

• Full sun: in shade the stems flop and it flowers poorly.
• Free-draining sand or loam, acid to chalky; poor soil is better than rich.
• Dry to moderately moist; wet soil in winter makes it rot.
• Space plants 45–60 cm apart, ideally among grasses and other prairie plants.
• Choose its permanent spot from the start, because it transplants badly.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand or loam

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry or normal

Size

1.2 m tall, 0.6 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -35 °C)

Goes well with

• Purple coneflower: Another prairie plant, with pink flowers, for the same sunny border.
• Switchgrass: A grass that complements the grey-green leaves and stands through winter.
• Blazing star: Purple spikes that contrast beautifully with the white globes.
• Russian sage: A silvery, drought-tolerant partner for a gravel garden.
• Catmint: A low blue edging at its feet.

Rattlesnake master: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Plant in April–May, so it has a whole season to root deeply.
2. Dig a deep hole and loosen the subsoil well; on heavy soil, mix in plenty of coarse sand or grit.
3. Set the plant at the same depth as it was in the pot without damaging the root ball.
4. Keep 45–60 cm from other plants.
5. Water straight away and during dry spells for the first few weeks; after that hardly at all.
6. Mulch with gravel instead of compost: this keeps the crown dry.

Care

Water

Only during dry spells in the first season. An established plant needs no extra water.

Feeding

Do not feed: in rich soil the stems become floppy and fall over.

Support

Not needed in a sunny spot on poor soil. In rich soil or partial shade, some support may help.

Spent flowers

Leave them: they stay decorative into winter.

Cutting

Cut for the vase or for drying when the heads are fully coloured; hang them upside down in a dry, airy place.

Tip: Choose a sunny, poor, free-draining spot from the start and leave it there: it has deep roots and transplants badly. Leave the seed heads standing in winter.

Rattlesnake master: when to prune it?

Pruning months: March.

When: It needs hardly any pruning. In March, cut away the old stems and dead leaves, before new growth begins.

How:

• Leave the spent stems standing in autumn and winter for structure and for insects.
• In March, cut the old stems back to just above the rosette.
• Remove dead, brown leaves at the base without damaging the crown.

Caution: Wear gloves: the leaf edges and bracts are spiny.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Seed

Sow in autumn in a pot of sandy seed compost and leave the pot outdoors: the seed needs a cold period and germinates in spring. Plant the seedlings in their permanent spot while young; they usually take two or three years to flower.

Self-seeding

In a spot it likes, it sometimes self-seeds. Only move seedlings while they are still very small.

Rattlesnake master: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −35 °C.

• Very hardy, to about −35 °C: no protection needed in Belgium.
• Heavy, wet soil in winter is a greater danger than frost: make sure drainage is good.
• Leave the stems and seed heads standing: they look beautiful with frost and shelter insects.

Diseases and pests

• Root rot: The crown turns soft and brown and the plant disappears after a wet winter. Plant in free-draining soil, if necessary on a raised mound of gravel.
• Falling stems: In rich soil, after feeding or in shade. Choose a sunny, poor spot.
• Slugs and snails: They sometimes eat young plants in spring. Pick them off in the evening until the plant is big enough.
• No flowers: Young plants grown from seed only flower after two or three years. Be patient, and do not feed.

Through the year

• March: Cut away old stems and dead leaves.
• April: Plant. Spread gravel around the base.
• May: Plant. Water in dry spells after planting.
• July: Flowering begins. Plenty of bees, wasps and butterflies.
• August: Full flower. Cut flowers for drying.
• September: Last flowers. Leave the stems standing.
• October: Collect seed and sow it in a pot outdoors.
• December: Rest. The seed heads decorate the winter garden.

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• Despite its yucca-like leaves, it belongs to the carrot family, like carrot, parsley and fennel.
• Indigenous peoples of North America used the strong fibres from its leaves to make cord and woven goods.
• Its leaves have parallel veins, which is very unusual for a member of the carrot family.