Photo: Ronnie Nijboer, CC0 · source
Broadleaf tree · Elm family (Ulmaceae)
Chinese elm
Ulmus parvifolia · also: Lacebark elm
Chinese elm is a graceful small elm of 10–15 m from East Asia, with small, glossy, leathery leaves. Its bark flakes off in a mosaic of grey, orange-brown and green, and it does not flower until late summer. In mild winters the leaves hang on for a long time. It is fairly resistant to Dutch elm disease and takes pruning well, which is why it is a popular street tree and one of the most popular bonsai trees. With a crown about 8 m across it fits as a small tree in a medium-sized garden.
Light
Sun or partial shade
preferably some sun
Moisture
Normal
no wet feet
Legal basis
Any garden soil
any pH
Hardiness
Throughout Belgium
no protection needed
Size
10–15 m
tall
Flowering
August–September
| Pruning months | November–February |
|---|---|
| Height | 10–15 m |
| Native to Belgium | No, planted |
| Poisonous to people and pets | Not known to be poisonous |
| Flowering | August–September |
Identify
Chinese elm: how do you recognise it?
- Habit
- Small tree of 10–15 m with a rounded crown about 8 m across and fine, slightly drooping twigs.
- Leaf
- Alternate, 2–5 cm, elliptic with a slightly lopsided base, singly scalloped, leathery and glossy dark green; stays on the tree for a long time in mild winters.
- Bark
- Flakes off in small pieces, leaving a mosaic of grey, orange-brown and green, as in a plane tree.
- Flower
- Small, inconspicuous flowers in the leaf axils, in August–September.
- Fruit
- Small winged fruits about 1 cm long, ripe in October–November.
- Difference from field elm
- Field elm has a larger, double-toothed leaf with a very lopsided base, and flowers in spring, before the leaves.
- Difference from Japanese zelkova
- Japanese zelkova has a larger leaf with regular, sharp teeth, and wingless fruits.
- Difference from Siberian elm
- Siberian elm (Ulmus pumila) is sometimes also sold as ‘Chinese elm’, but it flowers in spring and has coarse, furrowed bark that does not flake.
Flowering: August–September · Pruning: November–February
Identify by feature: Lopsided leaf base · Peeling bark
Looks like it, but isn’t
- Field elm Ulmus minor: larger, double-toothed leaf with a very lopsided base; flowers in spring, before the leaves. Difference from field elm
- Japanese zelkova Zelkova serrata: larger leaf with regular, sharp teeth, and wingless fruits. Difference from Japanese zelkova
In your garden
Why grow it?
- Beautiful flaking bark with a mosaic of colours.
- Fairly resistant to Dutch elm disease.
- Stays smaller than most elms and fits in a medium-sized garden.
- Takes pruning well: also as a bonsai, indoors or out.
Chinese elm: where does it grow best?
- Sun to partial shade; in sun the crown is densest.
- Almost any soil that doesn’t stay wet for long; also tolerates some drought and urban air.
- About 8 m across: fits as a small tree in a medium-sized garden, or as a street tree.
- As a bonsai: outdoors in a bright spot, or indoors in a bright, cool spot by a window.
- Light
- Sun or partial shade
- Legal basis
- Any garden soil
- Moisture
- Normal
- Size
- 12 m tall, 8 m wide
- Hardiness
- Throughout Belgium, no protection needed
Goes well with
- Japanese maple: Together they create an Asian feel in the garden, and it is a bonsai classic too.
- Sacred bamboo: A graceful evergreen shrub with red autumn and winter colour for the foot of the tree.
- Japanese holly: A small-leaved evergreen for clipping that takes the shears as well as Chinese elm does.
Good and bad companions
Goes well with
- Tolerate the shade under this tree: oregon grape, rhododendron, oleaster, japanese skimmia, garden privet, camellia, laurustinus, box-leaved honeysuckle
Maintenance
Chinese elm: when and how to plant it?
- Plant from November to March when the ground isn’t frozen; a pot-grown tree can also go in later, as long as it isn’t freezing or very dry.
- Dig a generous hole, plant the tree at the same depth as it grew before and firm the soil.
- Put a stake on the windward side and tie the trunk loosely; remove stake and tie after 2–3 years.
- Water after planting and during dry spells in the first summers.
Care
- Watering
- In dry spells during the first few years. A bonsai in a shallow pot needs frequent watering in summer, sometimes daily.
- Feeding
- Not needed for a tree in the open ground; feed a bonsai every few weeks during the growing season with bonsai fertiliser.
- Checks
- In June–July, check whether any branches suddenly wilt: even a fairly resistant elm is not immune to Dutch elm disease.
- Indoor bonsai
- An indoor bonsai wants plenty of light and a cool spot in winter; in a warm, dark room it drops its leaves. Preferably put it outdoors in summer.
Tip: Got a Chinese elm as an indoor bonsai? Put it outdoors in a bright spot from May to October and overwinter it somewhere cool and light: indoors it often gets too little light, and it is really a hardy tree.
Chinese elm: when to prune it?
Pruning months: November–February.
When: In winter (November–February).
How:
- Tolerates pruning well. Train a young tree on a single leader or into an attractive multi-stemmed shape, and remove crossing branches.
- As a bonsai, cut new shoots back to 1–2 leaves once they have 4–6.
- Cut diseased branches well back into healthy wood and disinfect your tools.
Caution: Don’t saw a garden tree in spring or summer: fresh wounds attract the elm bark beetle, which spreads Dutch elm disease.
Propagation
- Cuttings
- Semi-ripe cuttings taken in summer root fairly well in a moist propagator under plastic.
- Sowing
- Sow the winged fruits in autumn, as soon as they are ripe, on the surface of a seed tray.
Chinese elm: how does it get through the winter?
Hardy throughout Belgium: no protection needed.
- Fully hardy in the open ground.
- In mild winters some of the leaves hang on for a long time. A bonsai in a shallow pot freezes faster than a tree in the ground: in hard frost, move it to shelter or to a cool, bright spot indoors.
Diseases and pests
- Dutch elm disease: Fairly resistant, but not immune. If branches suddenly wilt in summer, cut them well back and have the tree checked by an arborist.
- Leaf drop indoors: An indoor bonsai drops its leaves when it has too little light, too much warmth or a dried-out root ball. Move it somewhere lighter and cooler and keep the soil moist.
- Aphids: Aphids on young shoots, especially on an indoor bonsai; hose them off with water or let ladybirds do the work.
- Frozen roots: A bonsai in a shallow pot can be killed by a severe winter. Protect the pot from frost.
Through the year
- January: Pruning, only now in winter; protect a bonsai from hard frost.
- February: Last month for pruning; still planting season.
- March: Planting season; repot a bonsai just before the buds break.
- May: Bonsai: cut new shoots back to 1–2 leaves.
- July: Check for wilting branches (Dutch elm disease); water a bonsai daily.
- September: Flowering: small flowers in the leaf axils.
- October: Winged fruits ripe: sow them.
- November: Planting season; pruning possible again.
- December: Winter pruning.
Use
What can you use it for?
- Garden and landscape
- Graceful small tree with beautiful bark; also used as a street tree.
- Also used for
- One of the most popular bonsai species, indoors and out.
You and this species
Did you know?
- One of the most popular bonsai trees: the ‘Chinese elm’ from the garden centre is usually this species. It is also fairly resistant to Dutch elm disease.
- The species name parvifolia means ‘small-leaved’. It is also known as lacebark elm, after its lace-like, flaking bark.
- It flowers in late summer, whereas our native elms flower as early as February–March, before the leaves.