Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus)

Photo: R. A. Nonenmacher, CC BY-SA 4.0 · source

Pruning guide · Climber

Virginia creeper: when and how to prune

Parthenocissus

Prune Virginia creeper in winter, while it is bare (November–March): cut it back a good half metre around windows, gutters, roof tiles and joints, and don’t hesitate to cut a plant that has grown too thick back hard.

Virginia creeper is the climber that turns walls bright red in autumn. It climbs unaided to 15–20 m with its adhesive pads, and keeps the wall cool in summer. On a sound, well-pointed wall it does little harm, but within a few years it grows into the gutters, under the roof tiles and across the windows. That is why it needs pruning every year. In winter, when it is bare, you can see exactly where the stems are.

Key facts
Pruning monthsNovember–March
Nesting season (15 March–15 August)Take care in March
FloweringJune–July
Good for bees, butterflies and birdsYes, for bees and birds
Native to BelgiumNo, naturalised

Virginia creeper: when to prune it?

Prune in winter, November–March, while the plant is bare. You can see the stems then, and no birds are nesting in it.

In November, after leaf fall, clear the gutters at the same time.

If you need to cut a stem away from a window in summer, first check carefully that there is no nest behind the leaves.

What else to prune in those months? January · February · March · November · December

Virginia creeper: how to prune it?

  1. Cut all stems away from windows, doors, gutters, downpipes, roof tiles and wooden parts, by a good half metre. They will then stay clear all summer.
  2. Don’t just pull a stem off the wall: cut through it first and let it dry out for a few weeks. It then comes away more easily, with less damage to the pointing.
  3. Cut stems that stick out from the wall or hang over a path back to a fork.
  4. Cut a plant that has grown too thick or heavy back hard in winter, even to 1 m above the ground: it sprouts again in spring and climbs back up within a few years.
  5. Don’t let it grow on a wall with poor pointing, render that is coming loose, or timber cladding: there it can cause damage.
  6. If you want to remove it completely, let the adhesive pads dry out after cutting the plant, then scrub them off with a stiff brush.

How much to cut, and how often?

  • Every year around all openings and edges, and otherwise as much as needed to keep it on its wall.
  • Every few years the oldest, thickest stems, when the plant becomes too heavy.

What does it mean for wildlife?

  • Blackbirds, chaffinches and dunnocks nest in a dense creeper on a wall, and sometimes a spotted flycatcher too. That is why you prune in winter, outside the nesting season (15 March–15 August).
  • The small green flowers in July are rich in nectar: bees and wasps swarm around them.
  • The blue-black berries in autumn are eaten by blackbirds, thrushes and starlings, which also spread the plant: it is a non-native from North America and East Asia that runs wild in woodland edges and dunes. Pull up seedlings, and don’t plant it near a nature reserve.
  • If you want a native climber for wildlife, choose ivy or honeysuckle.

Common mistakes

  • Letting it grow into the gutter and under the roof tiles, with blocked gutters and lifted tiles as a result.
  • Pulling stems off the wall in summer, nests and all.
  • Tearing stems off the wall by force, so the pointing and render come away with them.
  • Dumping prunings in the countryside or at a woodland edge.

Caution: The sticky pads leave marks on a wall if you remove it later.

Nearby: related pruning guides

Similar to: Difference from common ivy · Difference from grapevine

Plant profile: Virginia creeper · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Laden…