Lavandin

Lavandin: how do you recognise it?

Habit

Rounded, evergreen dwarf shrub about 80 cm tall and 1 m wide, with a woody base.

Leaves

Narrow, grey-green and aromatic; they stay on the shrub all winter.

Flowers

Long, slender stems held well above the leaves, carrying long, pointed spikes in lilac to purple, often with side branches. Flowers in July–August.

Scent

Strong and fresh, a little sharper and more camphor-like than true lavender.

Roots

Deep and finely branched. They cope well with drought but rot in wet soil.

Flowering: July–August · Harvest and fruit: July–August · Plants: April–May · Pruning: April and August

Why grow it?

• A strong summery scent you notice as soon as you walk past.
• A magnet for bees, bumblebees and butterflies in July and August.
• Evergreen grey foliage that gives the border structure outside the flowering season too.
• Ideal for drying: for bouquets and scented sachets.
• Very drought-tolerant after the first year and happy without fertiliser.

Lavandin: where does it grow best?

• Full sun: the sunnier the spot, the more flowers and the stronger the scent.
• Poor, well-drained soil: sand, loam or clay, acid to chalky. Improve heavy soil with coarse grit or gravel, or plant on a raised bed.
• Dry; wet roots in winter are more dangerous than frost.
• A warm spot along a path, by the patio or against a sunny wall is ideal.
• Plant 80–100 cm apart; for a low hedge, 60 cm.

Light

Sun

Soil type

Sand, loam or clay

Acidity

Not fussy

Moisture

Dry

Size

0.8 m tall, 1 m wide

Hardiness

Hardy (to -15 °C)

Goes well with

• Roses: A classic pairing: purple and pink in a sunny border.
• Catmint: Even more blue-purple flowers and bees, on the same dry soil.
• Thyme: A low, fragrant edging at the front.
• Ornamental grasses: Swaying blades beside the rounded shrubs.

Lavandin: when and how to plant it?

Plant in April–May.

1. Plant in April–May, once the soil has warmed up; it then roots in well before winter.
2. Stand the pot in a bucket of water for a moment first.
3. Dig a hole a little larger than the rootball and, on heavy soil, mix in a few spadefuls of coarse grit or gravel.
4. Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot, no deeper, and firm in.
5. Water in straight away and again in dry spells during the first year.
6. Mulch with gravel rather than bark: it keeps the base dry and reflects warmth.

Care

Watering

Only in the first summer, regularly in dry weather. After that, in open ground it hardly needs water.

Feeding

Do not feed: rich soil gives floppy growth, fewer flowers and less scent.

Mulching

Use gravel or pebbles, not bark or compost, which hold moisture.

Harvesting

Cut stems for drying when half the flowers are open and hang them upside down in a dry, shady place.

In a pot

Choose a roomy pot with a drainage hole, filled with potting compost mixed with a third coarse grit. Water in summer when the compost is dry.

Tip: Plant it on a raised bed, against a sunny wall or in gravel: on dry soil it survives winter far better than on wet soil.

Lavandin: when to prune it?

Pruning months: April and August.

When: Twice a year: at the end of August, after flowering, and lightly in April.

How:

• After flowering, cut off the flower stems together with 2–3 cm of the leafy growth, so the shrub stays nicely rounded.
• In April, trim lightly again to keep it compact, always within the green, leafy part.
• Never cut into bare wood: it will not regrow from there.
• An old, bare, sprawling shrub is better replaced with a young plant: it rarely survives hard pruning.

Caution: Do not prune after mid-September: new shoots would then be vulnerable to frost. In spring, wait until hard frosts are over.

Pruning: when and how · Pruning calendar and basic rules

Propagation

Cuttings

In July–August: non-flowering shoots 8–10 cm long, lower leaves removed, in a sandy mix in good light but out of direct sun. Keep them just moist; they root in 4–6 weeks.

Layering

In spring, peg a low branch into the ground and cover it with sand or soil. After a few months it has roots and can be severed.

Lavandin: how does it get through the winter?

Hardy to −15 °C: protect young plants.

• Hardy to about −15 °C, enough for most Belgian winters.
• Wet soil in winter is more dangerous than frost: make sure drainage is good.
• Do not prune in autumn; the foliage protects the shrub.
• In a pot: in winter stand it against a wall, under an overhang, on pot feet so water can drain away.

Diseases and pests

• Root rot: The shrub turns grey, wilts and dies, often after a wet winter. Plant in a drier spot or improve the soil with gravel.
• Rosemary beetle: A small, shiny metallic green beetle with purple stripes eats leaves and flowers. Tap beetles and larvae onto a newspaper and dispose of them.
• Froghoppers: White blobs of froth on the stems in May–June. They are harmless; hose them off if you like.
• Bare and sprawling: Without annual pruning the shrub becomes woody and falls open in the middle. Prune every year and replace old plants in good time.

Through the year

• April: Light shaping trim, within the green. Planting.
• May: Planting. Water young plants in dry weather.
• June: The flower stems appear. Watch for froghoppers.
• July: In flower: bees and butterflies. Harvest stems for drying.
• August: Full flower. Prune at the end of August after flowering. Take cuttings.
• September: Cuttings can still be taken. Watch for rosemary beetle. No more pruning.
• October: Resting. Make sure the base stays dry.
• December: Move pots to a dry, sheltered spot.

Edible and useful

Flowers (July–August)

Cut the long flower stems in July and August on a dry morning, when about half the flowers are open: the scent is then at its strongest and the flowers do not drop when dried. Lavandin has longer stems and a stronger scent than English lavender: ideal for dried bunches, scented sachets, bath salts and lavender wands. For the kitchen, choose English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): lavandin contains more camphor and tastes bitter and soapy. Leave plenty of flowers for the bees and butterflies too.

Storing

Tie small bunches and hang them upside down somewhere dark, dry and airy for 1 to 2 weeks. Then strip off the flowers and keep them in a closed jar out of the light: they stay fragrant for a year. For lavender wands, use fresh stems.

Caution: Lavandin is not for eating or drinking: use English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) for that, and that too in moderation. Never swallow lavandin or lavender essential oil, and do not apply it undiluted to the skin. If you have sensitive skin, test the bath salts on a small patch first, and do not use them on irritated skin. Keep sachets and bath salts out of reach of young children and pets. Preferably cut when there are few bees on the flowers, and watch out for stings.

Eating and using is at your own risk: see the terms of use.

Recipes

• Lavender wands (Other · 1 wand · 30 min + a few hours to soften)
• Lavandin bath salts (Skin and body care · 1 jar of 250 g · 10 min + 1 week infusing)

Good for wildlife

Bees

Nectar and pollen for honeybees and wild bees.

Butterflies

Nectar for butterflies.

Did you know?

• Lavandin yields far more oil than true lavender. Many of the famous purple fields of Provence are lavandin.
• Lavandin oil smells sharper and more camphor-like than true lavender oil and is widely used in soap and washing powder.
• Lavandin produces little or no viable seed: all plants of a variety such as ‘Grosso’ are grown from cuttings of one and the same mother plant.